Projects Let’s Redesign A Brake Pedal Arm or Not?

At this point in time it’s just a shot in the dark. To get the pedal to the right side of the steering column will take nearly 4” of off set and with out cab in place, a (mock up) floor with trans hump and a gas pedal plus sitting down on a seat there’s no way to make a call. At least for now I’m one step closer than I was before.
Perhaps if I had done this before or hung with guy’s building car with masters under the floor I would have been able to modify this differently.
Who know’s this just may stay as a 2 foot driver. That’s how I alway’s drive.

 

I've built a pedal or two using a chunk 1/4" wall DOM with the pedal arm and the actuating end offset from each other. The pedal and arm were drilled to fit the tube, permitting 360 degree welds. After welding I bushed the tube and drilled for a couple zercs. Used 1" pivot shaft supported securely on both ends. Did both hanging and underfloor. Never a problem with lost motion or flex.

 

Not much to show. Made the return on the master bracket wider so I can add a brace from it to the pivot so I can do a bellcrank set up if need be. Either way, a brace will be in place since I’m going to go with a removable pivot. This way I’ll be free to finish things on the chassis and worry about pedal pad location from left to right later.

 

A brace is a good idea.

 

I used a 1" shaft collar as the frame side anchor for a removable pivot shaft. Drilled it and used a roll pin to secure the shaft, then safety wired the roll pin in a "belt & suspenders" move.

 

Not much once again. Drilled a 7/8” hole in the frame so pivot rod will run into it. Built up left shaft collar with weld to create wedge shape then hand finished it with a file. Just have to weld it into place. Master bracket is welded in. Started playing with brake line’s.

 

Nice work Johnny!

 

How do like this one? Had to remove .004 from DOM.

 

A battery operated lathe, genius.

 

A. Why does your pedal arm have to be one piece ?
B why does the pedal arm need to be in line with the M/C ?

 

A. It’s what was with the project before I got to it. Then there is the fact that pedal arm’s in the aftermarket come that way. I’ve seen two piece clutch pedals but that requires less force on them.
B. Push rod needs to enter and exit the master when braking inline with the bore.

 

I like Ryobi!

 

At the end of redoing master mount and pivot. Only thing left when the time comes is does the boss want the pedal to the left against the frame or go to the right via a bellcrank addition to the pedal?

 

Really should be in the standard position to the right of the steering column.

 

I agree. We’ll see.

 

Between the steering column and the trans hump is tight! helps if you can get the steering column high enough to where your feet don’t hit it.
It’s usually pretty tight to the trans tunnel and more often than not I’ve cut the tans lifting lug off. Usually a little riser for your heel to comfortably operate throttle pedal.

My buddy has a gorgeous 34 roadster, very well built, lots of little trick stuff all over. They blew it on the pedals. It’s too tight for a size 12 shoe ( just 1) no way you’re putting both feet up there. In your mock ups figure 1-1/4 for insulation and carpet .

 

I hear you. “The Boss” being my girlfriend said at a car event and showing her both examples said “I don’t like how close the brake pedal is to the gas pedal”. Yet she’s a one foot driver.

 

Only 3 pedals need 2 feet.
I have trouble driving my buddies van, it’s tight.

 

The bellcrank route will reduce or eliminate the bending of the pedal to get it where you need it, no?

Looks like you've more than enough room to fit a left foot footrest in there, masquerading as a clutch pedal... Real hotrods have 3 and all that nonsense .

Chris

 

Not my vehicle. I did manage to do away with the brake booster that was there as well as not getting disc brakes for the front. Rather now I have two sets of front drum brakes that I acquired via this site.

 

By trying to use parts that don't fit , you're making things more difficult IMO , either the modify what you have to work or fan new stuff that will . ( think of how a clutch Z bar is made & functions , put the pedal arm where it needs to be , the pushrod lever where it needs to be & connect them with tubing in the appropriate position .

 

Your missing the fact that there isn’t any other place to mount master with out interference do to how chassis was built. Second fact. The long polish pivot shaft is removable as well it allows me to slide pedal to experiment with where it will final be. I can not make that call any other way. This has options as it currently set’s without doing any thing further modifications to items permanently welded to chassis.

 

I’ve yet to meet anything permanently welded to anything.
Your Z bar approach is going to work fine with a brace on the wild end.

 

That is why the pivot shaft is thread 7/16” fine and two 3/8” holes off the master bracket.