Can someone tell me what kind of front end weather it be dropped or independent that would go good with my 40 chevy sedan, it's all stock runs fantastic with the 216 but I want a little more pep Is there really a bolt in or not (and is it any good), I don't have deep pockets but I don't want junk either, though I am on a fixed income,no garage and not many tools. I want to keep it an inline 250 6 with a power glide trans Also what kind of rear end with what kind of leafs for a decent ride. Thanks in advance if this doesn't get deleted again.
235- 250-292 all should bolt in pretty easy, the power-glide also look for a 3.55 ratio , 80's s-10's and the Isuzu cross badge are a good option as well (look for a 6 lug axel and you can run stock wheels (will have to modify the drive shaft)) the s-10 leaf springs should do ok, you can always add load helpers (bags or air shocks) to help ride hight and quality other thing would be read the info in the "any shame in running a 216 "thread
I plan on using the orig. IFS underneath with aftermarket disk brakes. Its that "knee action" set up. With good tires. ........Planning on using a 292- I6 & built 200R Trans , Ford exsplorer disk brake rearend .
A 235 is a straight swap with slight mods to the mounts and water pump. The 250-292 swap is more work (like installing a mouse motor.)
This is what I'd use under a 40 chevy...in fact I did. Loosely based on the mustang II front. Used a trans am/Z-28 stabilizer bar from the mid 70s also.
Based on the conditions you put on it: The front end you have is not all that bad but the shock setup can be hard to deal with. A 235 or 261 would be the quickest route to more pep. They are drop in with no mount problems but no easy PowerGlide. The quickest, cheapest and best fitting front end would be a later Chevy, early '50's thru '54 with the tube shocks. Remember, they used that front end right up into the '60's in the Corvette. You don't have "knee action", you have hydraulic shocks built into the upper control arm. They are prone to leak & hard to rebuild. True knee action was '36, '37 & '38 only. No, you don't want those. The hydraulic upper arm shocks have become conufused with knee action. The 250 with aluminum PowerGlide would work well. Rear ends as noted by others.
Well, as it happens, 1940 Chevy cars came with beam axle front ends on Master 85 models, such as the OP says he's has, and IFS on Master Deluxe. And, the IFS was not "knee action", those were used earlier and gone by 1940, but they did use integral shock absorbers with the upper A arm. But that is moot since this is a Master 85. So, to the OP. IF you want an independent front suspension, and given the other considerations you mention, the easiest IFS I can think of is Chassis Engineering's bolt on kit. They make quality parts that fit and are easy to use. However, you will need to replace your steering column in the process since the old one is integral with the current steering box and that will be discarded in the changeover. It is possible to salvage the column portion, but the knowledge, effort and tools required make that a less attractive option given your situation. Again, IF you are committed to an automatic trans, and a 6 cylinder engine, you COULD use an adapter behind your stock 216 and an aluminum case Powerglide ('62 thru about '70) would br the smallest, lightest and least horsepower absorbing automatic trans available. If you did choose that route, a PG from a 6 cylinder application has a bit better 1st gear ratio and is air cooled, but that is not a major issue. A V8 trans would work fine and has a sturdier clutch pack, but would require an external cooler be added. That is not a major issue. What would be well worth considering, in my opinion, is to use a complete matched engine and transmission from a donor car. The engine carburetor, ignition, transmission/throttle linkage, etc. would all be correct for the pairing. You could use, for instance, a '62 up Nova or '63 up full sixe Chevy or '64 up Chevelle or even a '63 up pickup power train. Looking for a '66 up vehicle should provide a 250 cube six, whereas the earlier models would be 194 or 230, depending on source vehicle. A suitable rear axle might be found under the same donor, but could also be sourced from a wide variety of GM, Ford or Mopar models. Axle width, ratio and wheel bolt pattern are variables. The Chassis Engineering front end is available with either common Ford or GM bolt patterns. There are myriad number of other small, but important considerations. "The Devil is in the details" is an apt phrase to keep in mind. Hope this helps you sort out what you think is the best cipourse to follow, even if that is to stick with what you have or buy another car already equipped as you prefer.
Yes, true, I missed that. Sorry. But, he did put financial constraints on the project. All your suggestions are excellent. Most are not cheap. I was just trying to get him what he seemed to want for the least money, least time, least work. The Chevy IFS will still go on there, present straight axle or not.
Given the circumstances, lack of money, tools, skills, and place to work, you will be up against it to do your own work and hiring it done costs like hell. So, the easiest and cheapest option might be to sell your car and buy a similar Chev with the mods already done. As you live in California there are likely a hundred suitable cars with 350/350 powertrain and Mustang II IFS already in them, within a driving distance and some of them come up for sale all the time. Sometimes they go cheaper than a good stocker, or at least cheaper than the price of your car plus what you would have to pay for the same mods.
You are absolutely correct that the '49 thru '54 passenger car IFS is the cheapest and fairly simple way to use IFS. The matching steering box/column assembly would also transplant easily. Those parts, in well used condition, could probably be sourced for very little money and, quite possibly, for free. However, rebuilding them would likely be needed but is still relatively inexpensive. By the way, though your post preceded mine, we were apparently composing about the same time, but you posted first. I did not see your comments until after I posted my own. The reference to beam axle and knee action was in response to a couple of earlier posts, not your prior post. To the OP......... Like Rusty O'Toole, I also think you would be wise to consider buying a different vehicle with the mods you want. I mentioned that in my last sentence, buy didn'telaborate on the point. I am glad Rusty did say more about it.
Your intended use of the car makes a huge difference in what you can justify doing to the car. If you just wanna tool around the neighborhood and hit the local cruise night, rebuild the stock front end and swap in a 235/powerglide combo from a later car. If you intend to take it on long road trips and have lots of highway cruising in mind, but don't have the skills or budget to build the car properly, you should sell it and look for a similar car that already has some of the mods you want done. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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