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Let's Build a 265 Chevy V8!!!!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JeffreyJames, Nov 9, 2009.

  1. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    The one I seen for sale is marked as Camaro or Mustang Ignition coil. 12V Part number 28576.
     
  2. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    Who's got two thumbs and is picky???




    This guy...
    [​IMG]
     
  3. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Boo ya!!! Chevy motor and Shiny Jackets that's what Jeffy cakes Does!!!

    On another note this is more of a Tech thread so by all means post that on my '35 or '52 thread but get it off the 265 thread!!!!
     
  4. Pretty big, five inches at the widest point, looking at the Mallory label. Might look badass under the hood with a 265, maybe too new.:mad:
     
  5. chicken coupe cook
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 220

    chicken coupe cook
    Member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    not sure if it is a 265 (283?).
    bill white's '50s dirt tracker.
    story in the next soupup.
    kool motor though!
    thought it might inspire you!

    Don
    www.soupupmagazine.com
     
  6. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    That's awesome Don!!!! Thanks for the inspiration!
     
  7. Jeff - I saw a thread somewhere about a shop that redoes old balancers. It was more for the desoto and hemi guys since no one makes them. You may do a search and come up with the shop that way. I know what you are after with the old original stuff, you just have to realize that no one will be able to see your balancer or fuel cut off plate in the car! Especially after you drive it some and get some road dirt in there!! Come on man! It's about the ride and tearing up the pavement!!!!!!
     
  8. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Tudor, I wished you lived a bit closer so you could give me a swift kick in the ass whenever I got hung up. We also seem to have a similar likes but since I am new to this shit I obsess over the small things.

    I think for the Balancer I might get a sleeve that Titus recommended and if that does not work I am just going to get a regular one from summit and order a single groove pulley to run on it.

    As far as the fuel block off plate, well I'll probably get aluminum finned one and blast it so it's not so cheesy looking.

    Thanks for the tip Josh!
     
  9. I like an L-79 Cam. Its too new for your build as they didn't use tehm until the later '60s. but it is just basically the hydraulic equivelent of the Duntov 30-30. Actually both are Duntov grinds.

    Now I don't know for sure when the Duntov 30-30 came about but it should be close to the era you are after. Both sound good and healthy and are a very streetable cam albiet it will be quite a bit of cam for your small displacement motor but it will still be drivable.

    Otherwise look for an Isky 3/4 race cam. I know that sounds hokey but that's what they called them. A full race cam or what they called a full race cam is going to be a bit lumpy for a streeter. Ask me how I know. :D

    If you are not partial to Isky cams you could also lean towards an older Erson grind. it would have been called a Sig Erson cam back in the day.

    Headers will pretty much be out of the question if you are building a '50s era car. They were out there but they were about as common as disc brakes.
     
  10. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY


    Alright put an 097 stick in the motor but the Header advice is cool. I was thinking about making some headers but I wasn't sure if I'd like the look. I'll probably just use the original '56 units.
     
  11. You could actually go with the 2.5 inch Vette units they are later but if you smooth them no one will know the difference. Of course that won't make any difference unless you're going with the bigger exhaust pipes.

    Smoothed exhaust manifolds is not out of your era at all and it isn't that much work.
     
  12. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Were Corvette's Ram's Horns in '56? I can't run those since is interferes with my steering but if I reverse the manifolds so that they dump out the front I clear everything. As for smoothing them......you bet your ass I am!!!! My manifolds are a little scaly from sitting so I was going to hit them with some rolocs and then blast them at the end before painting them flat black. Thanks Beaner!!
     
  13. Hey, no problem obsessing I am just an impatient ass hole and want to hear that cam and go fer a ride!

    You tapped your crank hole right!
     
  14. Ya know I really can't give you an honest answer on the rams horns. I thought they were but I really haven't had my head under the hood of many '56 corvettes. And most of the ones I have been around had been molested.

    Maybe someone else can answer that one for you. It was just an assumption on my part. Never the less back then whoever was building would have run whatever fit and not worried about what it originally came off from.
     
  15. little skeet
    Joined: Jan 27, 2008
    Posts: 312

    little skeet
    Member
    from huston

    265 Chevies run just fine. You do need the powerpack heads, a solid lifter cam with a similar to Duntov grind, balance the engine, use a heavy duty oil pump, put exhaust manifolds that will let it breath. Dial in the camshaft, will probablly need an offset on the timing gear to advance the cam timing. Use a roller chain and timing gears, not a link one. Be sure to match the intake manifold to the head ports. Cheap H.P. things we did was, take out the hydralic lifters, remove the pump, put the top and lock back in and put them back on the hydralic camshaft. This gives you a performance camshaft, but you need to set the valves at .003 to .005, when the engine is completely hot. Do not go more than .005 clearance or tighter than .003. Also, we would swap the rods and pistons from one side to the other side. It changes the piston in the bore and the engine performs better. I did this on a 56 265 plus had it balanced..the only expense for performance..when I overhauled it. It would wind to 7500 rpms and stay together with no problems and run like crazy. Downside is, you have to keep the valves adjusted. I would adjust them every 1500 miles. Yes you can bore the 265 out .125 and you will have a 283. Old cast aluminum Corvette valve covers look real good on them.

    Good Luck on your build!!

    Little Skeet.....have owned, 50,51,54,55,56,57,58, Chevys one right after the other while a teenager and working at my father's garage since I was 11.
     
  16. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    Rams horns are a pain in the ass for me, i wanted my t to be cross steer being i have a good '47 box and column but they are in the way.... Looks like i'm going F-1 push/pull because i want chromed rams horns
     
  17. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    My steering box is so nice and has zero play in it I would rather not screw with it. So the normal manifolds are where it's at for me....smoothed of coarse.


    Another Question!!! I have an old Mallory Distributer, the kind where the plugs go right in to the cap like they were built in. Now I now there's something I have to do to make this work with this motor. Is it just the notch on shaft? I really want to use this thing but want to make sure I am not starving it for oil or something.
     
  18. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Just dropped that pieces off to my friend Scott so he can complete his end of the building. I ended up giving him the Corvette single 4bbl intake with WCFB carb on top so we can tune the motor with that instead of fussing with the 4 94's. I'm probably going to need to rebuild that carb that's on there since it's been sitting for 30 plus years.

    The whole Corvette intake is from a '59 and it's in incredible condition with all the trinkets that complete the intake like matching bolts with correct markings etc. I was thinking I would sell it after the motor is broke in but now I might keep it for the '54 Chevy later down the road. I'll just have to find a nice 283 for it it top off and that'll be a nice combo I think.


    I also blasted and POR-15'ed the Harmonic balancer and inside of pulley since It'll be hard for me to get in there once they are mounted. I need to find the proper color for the motor too this week. I might need a custom mix but I would like to find something that I can regularly find incase I need it.

    I found a set of Staggered bolt Offy valve covers on the ebay so I snatched them up for $75.00! I never seen a set as of late especially not on a early Chevy and certainly not with out the breather s and cap on top. These are super cool and old castings. The back of two fins have been filed off for clearance on something previously. I am leaving it. They'll look cool after they come back from the polisher along with the Weiand intake. I just can't wait to see that polished aluminum next to that dark maroon paint!

    So just a few more weeks and it should be back in between the frame rails!!!
     
  19. SanDiegoJoe
    Joined: Apr 18, 2004
    Posts: 3,519

    SanDiegoJoe
    Member

  20. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Thanks Joe. I wished I would have seen that before I had the motor built!
     
  21. rustybolt
    Joined: Mar 15, 2010
    Posts: 8

    rustybolt
    Member
    from Nampa, ID

    Currently working on my 57 265 v8 - got a lot of info from this thread - looking for a replacement carb for my 70's holley economiser 4barrel 450cfm - Or maybe I will get this carb to run right eventually -

    Any specific cars/trucks I may be able to liberate a good carb from and go easy on my wallet?
     
  22. Lobucrod
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 4,121

    Lobucrod
    Alliance Vendor
    from Texas

    I like running the Q-jet on these little motors. Good on gas and the adjustable secondary air valve can be adjusted to fit the motor.
     
  23. 55chevr
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 985

    55chevr
    Member

    I had an .097 in a 265 that was .030 over back in 1964 ... was in my 55 Belair coupe. T-10 4 speed 4.11 rear .... Had dual quad Carter wcfbs on it from a 57 Corvette ... I dont think the crappy stock exhaust manifolds helped ... it ran sweet and sounded cool but it didnt make any real horsepower ... lost in heads up run to a 60 Corvette with a 230 HP motor in it.
     
  24. geezerkat
    Joined: Mar 12, 2005
    Posts: 71

    geezerkat
    Member

    Stay with the smaller valves and do a velocity engine. The big intake valves will be shrouded by the small bore cylinders and therefore won't gain you much. 1.73-1.60 should feed a 265 just fine. Seems the kids nowadays like to overdo cams and such. The mouse motors present their own set of challenges.
     
  25. 392Roadster
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 126

    392Roadster
    Member
    from Long Beach

    Lets say I'm keepin my '55 265 heads on my 265 lower end (now been bored to 283). How big of valves can you put in them and how much porting can be done. The cc problem of my heads will be taken care of with taller pistons.
     
  26. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,970

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Installing 1.84 inch intake valves from an early '80s 305 4 bbl engine is no problem. I've seen guys wedge 1.94 intakes into early heads, but there's a question of how much (if any) gain there is over the 1.84s, since valve shrouding comes into play. Remember, you're still only feeding 283 cubic inches, and guys wrung an impressive amount of power out of them fifty years ago, even with the stock 1.72 inch valves. As far as porting a pair of 1955 heads goes, I'd look for a pair of '57 2bbl heads. The intake ports will already be about as big as you'd port the '55 heads to, and still have the early look, with staggered valve cover boltholes and the same rectangular symbol on the end of the head as the 265 units have.
     
  27. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Amen, I took your advice and picked up a set of '57 Heads and did as you said. Hopefully the motor runs like a raped....mouse?
     
  28. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,970

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    If all is done correctly, it will run like a recent visitor of Taco Bell to the men's room, grasshopper.
     
  29. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    I stopped at page 6 or 7 or so.

    The old -097 solid cam was the one I ran in my old junk301 in my '67 350SS/RS Camaro car, M-20 and 3.31 posi.

    287/228/287/230, 110.5LCA/108ICA, right at dam near .385" net lash hot both sides set at .012" and .018". It w/ new points would rpm to 7,500 easy, and a week later only 7,000 rpm...

    The 30-30, -346 solid fuelie cam....
    346/254, 114LCA/112ICA, 485" gross lift and spec'd at .030" lash for a net lift of .455" on both sides!

    Never ran it, but my long gone Crippled Buddy w/ his Isky Z-30 solid cammed 375hp/327 FI engine was still pulling at 7,200 rpm, (open dumps straight down right under his 2.50" ramshorns), w/ his 4-speed and 3.08 reg/small tires '58 'Vette ragtop. We were running like between 160 and 170 mph that late Sat night back in '64 or so....

    He, He!! It was just a short run for a pint a VO......................

    I'd go a Z-30 now STILL, even if it is WAY old-school....... 290/250, 108, .480" gross lift and need's .030" hot lash on both sides for a net lift of .455".

    I have a set of '56, 265 -306 heads that have the recessed sparkplugs out in the garage JUST CAUSE I wanted the boat anchors is all.

    60 cc 1.72"/1.50" valve chambers, sparkplugs way recessed back in a notch!!

    And they only measured like 118 to 120 cc intake port size!

    283 Powerpack (aka, PP), heads back then measured about the same 60 cc chamber and valve size, but have 137 to maybe 140 cc intake ports. THIS intke port size increase is what made the 283" PP heads so powerful back then!!!!!!!

    My pair of virgin chamber and port 2.02"/1.60" valved -461 REAL FUELIE heads cc at 66.0 to 66.+ chamber size with 160.0 to 160.+ intake port size. You can see and feel GM's factory unshrouding "plunge-cut" around the intakes. Generally -461's are down around 62 to 64..

    These are REAL closed chambered SB heads as are the much later 305, -601, 1.84"/1.50" valved, type heads! I call them "double-quench!".... No quench relief by the sparkplug is why....

    BUT, heads up, the -601 heads can cc chamber-wise down to around 52/53 cc's and probalby up to 58. My pair cc at 53 and 55 cc's.

    As far as notching a cam, I'd just take my trusty HFT 4.5" angle grinder and cut a 3/4" long x 3/16" wide x 1/16" or so deep notch right in the middle of the rear cam bearing and go!

    Again, as for the '55 or so 265" engine's oil filter, it was like the earlier 232" Stude V-8's, so no big deal but a mess to clean out at a filter change. My '55 Belaire 2-dr h/t had one on it back then. Boy do I wish I had it now!!

    I had a '51, 232" Stude V-8 that w/ the help of my now long gone Buddy, dropped into a '52 Willys Areo Eagle 2-dr h/t car WAY back in like '65 or so??? It's been years and years..

    And NEVER forget that there have been guys that have shifted our little 3" stroked SBC's up to AS HIGH AS 12,000+ rpm in full race trim!!!!

    Suckers are tough as NAILS and when set up right in a light/geared/tired right car can go big engine hunting just like back then!!

    I have a really big soft spot in my heart for the little 265/283 "engines that can"!!!!!

    pdq67
     
  30. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    I stopped at page 6 or 7 or so.

    The old -097 solid cam was the one I ran in my old junk301 in my '67 350SS/RS Camaro car, M-20 and 3.31 posi.

    287/228/287/230, 110.5LCA/108ICA, right at dam near .385" net lash hot both sides set at .012" and .018". It w/ new points would rpm to 7,500 easy, and a week later only 7,000 rpm...

    The 30-30, -346 solid fuelie cam....
    346/254, 114LCA/112ICA, 485" gross lift and spec'd at .030" lash for a net lift of .455" on both sides!

    Never ran it, but my long gone Crippled Buddy w/ his Isky Z-30 solid cammed 375hp/327 FI engine was still pulling at 7,200 rpm, (open dumps straight down right under his 2.50" ramshorns), w/ his 4-speed and 3.08 reg/small tires '58 'Vette ragtop. We were running like between 160 and 170 mph that late Sat night back in '64 or so....

    He, He!! It was just a short run for a pint a VO......................

    I'd go a Z-30 now STILL, even if it is WAY old-school....... 290/250, 108, .480" gross lift and need's .030" hot lash on both sides for a net lift of .455".

    I have a set of '56, 265 -306 heads that have the recessed sparkplugs out in the garage JUST CAUSE I wanted the boat anchors is all.

    60 cc 1.72"/1.50" valve chambers, sparkplugs way recessed back in a notch!!

    And they only measured like 118 to 120 cc intake port size!

    283 Powerpack (aka, PP), heads back then measured about the same 60 cc chamber and valve size, but have 137 to maybe 140 cc intake ports. THIS intke port size increase is what made the 283" PP heads so powerful back then!!!!!!!

    My pair of virgin chamber and port 2.02"/1.60" valved -461 REAL FUELIE heads cc at 66.0 to 66.+ chamber size with 160.0 to 160.+ intake port size. You can see and feel GM's factory unshrouding "plunge-cut" around the intakes. Generally -461's are down around 62 to 64..

    These are REAL closed chambered SB heads as are the much later 305, -601, 1.84"/1.50" valved, type heads! I call them "double-quench!".... No quench relief by the sparkplug is why....

    BUT, heads up, the -601 heads can cc chamber-wise down to around 52/53 cc's and probalby up to 58. My pair cc at 53 and 55 cc's.

    As far as notching a cam, I'd just take my trusty HFT 4.5" angle grinder and cut a 3/4" long x 3/16" wide x 1/16" or so deep notch right in the middle of the rear cam bearing and go!

    Again, as for the '55 or so 265" engine's oil filter, it was like the earlier 232" Stude V-8's, so no big deal but a mess to clean out at a filter change. My '55 Belaire 2-dr h/t had one on it back then. Boy do I wish I had it now!!

    I had a '51, 232" Stude V-8 that w/ the help of my now long gone Buddy, dropped into a '52 Willys Areo Eagle 2-dr h/t car WAY back in like '65 or so??? It's been years and years..

    And NEVER forget that there have been guys that have shifted our little 3" stroked SBC's up to AS HIGH AS 12,000+ rpm in full race trim!!!!

    Suckers are tough as NAILS and when set up right in a light/geared/tired right car can go big engine hunting just like back then!!

    I have a really big soft spot in my heart for the little 265/283 "engines that can"!!!!!

    pdq67
     

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