Let's build an authentic 1932 frame

I really like what you're doing here. Any plans on making the correct dimple on the top of the frame rail for the cowl hoop?

Also, your years of the Model A front crossmembers is incorrect. The ones with the higher pad, that you said were 1931, are actually the 28-29's. The recessed pad is 30-31. The 30-31 are better to use because it gives you that much more up/down room to fit your radiator.

 

Thanks for correcting me. The differences were new to me too, and I took the sellers word for it. I'll go back and correct all the references so that people don't get the wrong idea.

Yes the dimple would be nice. Maybe next time I'll work out how to do that.

Ed

 

When I dream of 32 frames.....yours is the one.

 

Had you saved this post for tech week you'd certainly be a top contender! I wanna build a deuce ch***is now!

 

Question from 37kid:

Thank you Edward, this in info everyone needs, it sure will help me when I get a pair of '32 rails. Just were does one start to measure from once the rails are on the work bench? Is the width of a '32 frame the same in the back after the factory installed the kick up reinforcement brackets? I'm wondering if the stock rear crossmember I have is an early or late one. Thanks again, Bob

Look, this is what I think is correct, but don't take it as gospel without checking further.

First reinforcement plates fitted outside the frame rails, as a quick fix from Ford, sometimes even dealer fitted.

Then the factory tooled up and fitted a new type of reinforcement internally, and at that time introduced a new rear crossmember to suit. It was narrower and if you think about it, the height from top to bottom must be lower also to fit inside the reinforced rails.

Pretty sure this was stated by Bruce Lancaster the last time it was discussed.

I have a stock 32 frame with no reinforcements, but I can't get to it to measure it right now, also would be difficult to get a good dimension with the body on.

Probably worth opening a new thread saying how wide yours is and asking how wide are other peoples stock rear crossmembers (or frames with and without reinforcements) If people supply some reliable dimensions you should be able to deduce what you have.

Mart.

 

Yeah...from memory: Early frames not reinforced in rear kick-up/crossmember area. The factory released a stamped outside repair reinforcement that went on outside of rail in that area, and I think some of these were installed at factory as well. These cars had rear crossmembers that were slightly longer since the member went from rail to rail, later ones were shortened by the thickness of the internal reinforcement installed in production on most '32's. Both inner and outer reinforcements were made about the same as the frame rail, just bigger or smaller to go in place. The production inner reinforcements had a spot weld or two, but I think this was not meant as a structural weld, it was just to keep the plate in place until the rivets went in.
There are LOTS of '32 frame variations in the earlier cars...see the recent 1932 resto book for overwhelming detail!
I think you could probably make a repro inner reinforcement bysectioning a repair section of frame from ASC??? That area is pretty weak and prone to bending on un-reinforced frames...I have seen cars that developed ripples in the quarter panel above the kickup from frame sag!
As with anything on a deuce, there were innumerable variants that are only poorly do***ented in parts and service books...but at least the messy period was early on, and most '32's got the inner reinforcement.

P.S. This is a really impressive frame build and tech post!

 

Well my first batch of ten pedal boxes were brought across from the manufacturing company next door who made them up for me, so I had to quickly ***emble one and fit it to the new frame. The new pedals are already set up for hydraulic brakes and bolt right in. The set also includes a bracket to mount the master cylinder on the K-member. The pedals are lasered out of 3/8" thick steel and then bent to shape on a ten ton computorized press.

I now have just seven sets left. These sets cost me a big bunch of money (Made in Germany by a company that makes stuff for the US military, not China - so not cheap). If you want one order now. The direct sale price is $550 for the complete set including postage anywhere in the world. Payment by Paypal. PM me if you're interested.

 

Looks like a good deal for a fair price to me! What do you use/recommend for a slave cylinder, or is this setup for mechanical clutch linkage? Forgive my ignorance, I'm still living in a TH350 world.

 

The clutch pedal has a CNC machined fork at the top which replicates the original and is good for transmissions where you need a mechanical push forward.

I also designed in a lever underneath the pedal. This is good for a mechanical pull backwards, or for operating a hydraulic cylinder.

Ed

 

Awesome Thread Ed!! I really like the use of the original rivets, clearly it more laborious then bolts or welding, And the result is so authentic! I love it!

 

Hi Ed,

I have got a really nice original frame which came with no front crossmember in it, I am putting the frame under a 31 coupe so have decided to put A front and rear crossmembers in as your thread shows, I have prepared both crossmembers as in your thread and the K member is already in place uncouched.

So I went to position the front and rear members, I clamped the front one into position at 45 9/16" from the rear edge of the K member as in the picture on your thread and then set the rear one at 103.5" (model A wheelbase) plus 7.5" for spring perch length to get spring centre in crossmember.

This is when the problem became apparent as the rear axle center is 2.5" forward from the center of the frame kick up?
this is obviously because the wheelbase on a 32 Model B is 106" so how do I get around this problem as I want to run with the 31 hood on the car and a 32 grill shell

The only way around the problem I can see is to either lengthen the hood by 2 plus inches or re-position the front and maybe the rear crossmembers??

I hope you or anyone else can help me with this problem as I cant fix the crossmembers in to the frame until Im sure

look forward to any help on this???

 

Great info here, thanks

 

This is a fantastic thread, and needs to go BTTT for Tech Week.

Can anyone shed some light on this guys' troubles?

 

If anyone is looking for rivets. Big Flats Rivet Co is the place to go. Please note that Jim will have less items on display this year at Hershey so place your order for pickup. His spots are just down the isle from me in row C4J in the Chocolate field. Here is the link and info. See you at Hershey! Bob http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/

 

Big flats is defiantly the way to go. They also have the tools you will need and i highly recommend their video if you are doing this for the first time. It will save you a lot of drilled out rivets Ha Ha.

 

Thank you for such a detailed do***entation, both here and in your rear crossmember thread. I just picked up a set of rough but original rails and I cant tell how helpful this information is as I look at all the previous years repairs and alterations and try to determine which are original to the frame.

-Chris

 

Awesome!!!!!, thanks for sharing

 

another just in time thread for me thanks

 

Here are some pictures of a '32 frame with '32 K-member, '32 rear crossmember, later style reinforcing plates at the rear and a Model-A front crossmember. It has been fitted with my latest '32 pedal box and master cylinder bracket.

I primed the frame rails and crossmembers after drilling and media blasting with epoxy primer and then riveted the frame back together. Finally my painter applied black ch***is paint which is a good thick protective coating.

 

Most Excellent !

Klaz

 

Or you can build one like this one: http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=714422

 

I've decided to build a K-member frame using the strengthening legs from Industrial Ch***is Inc. I'll post some pictures as we near completion. Actually building two frames, one with the straight legs and one for a 3W coupe using the dropped legs.

 

STILL one of the best threads ever written!

My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

I also use the type of electric grinders you mention. Mine are Milwaukee
and Matabo. However I have not encountered a variable speed unit.
I do not recall seeing one offered by any supplier I have dealt with.
I would tend to acquire one if possible.

 

Great post thanks for sharing

 

Great! I bought some IC x-member legs before I left for Air Force training, and will look forward to seeing your results. I can't work on any on of my projects now, so I will enjoy seeing yours.