Let's rebuild a 350! (maybe), PT.1

C10, You could possibly, or conceivably, get all the other pistons/rods out except for the damaged cylinder, then when all others are out, just disconnect the damaged one from the crank by unbolting the conn rod cap, and then lifting the crank out. Brucer is right, for the most part that short block is junk, although saving some parts might be beneficial, crank, cam etc,, but remember, if you're going to be building a hotter than stock motor, most of those pieces will be replaced anyway. THe crank can possibly be saved, get it checked out by a machine shop though. Have you looked thru the HAMB cl***ifieds yet? I saw a great deal there a few days ago for a 350 for 500$ iirc, which is a great deal for a good runner.. throw a good set of heads on it, install a hotter cam, performance intake, carb and headers and you have a good start.

 

1) i'm basically taking it apart to learn more, trying to find out what really happened etc.
a) i was thinking of doing it that way----taking the crank out first, but some of the rod caps bolts i can't reach due to the position of the crank. So, it looks like i'll have to try and turn it.

2) Right now, a few options i'm considering, not nessesarily in any particular order of preference are:

a) GMPP bare block, # 10066034. $750-800; i would "custom build" this one possibly going with aluminum vortecs, but most likely iron vortec heads. However, this block appears to be identical to the 350 crate; In that case the crate 350 would probably be easiest/cheapest+warranty.

b) GMPP 383 short block # 12499106. $3500-3800 ish; i think torque is more important for me now.

c) Blueprint 355 shortblock:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engines/138/BP3551/10002/-1?parentProductId=761058#moreDetails

d) Be patient and go used; i think this is the most likely route i will take. No, i haven't checked the ham cl***ifieds yet, but will.

 

you dont say if the #4 cyl in junk or not? if it was not damaged.... hone the bores, use file to fit rings, buy one piston, one rod. If you want to be sure its a good engine, buy some hypereutectic flat top pistons, get rods resized or at least measured for wear. If #4 is junk then get a block.
magnaflux / boil block, new cam bearings, new bearing and gasket kit, Northern auto has good prices on rebuild + cam kit, something in the 470 lift is a great street grind, no trouble and good performance, 480 lift and up you cant run stock vortecs.

The days of $200 good running 350's is over, you get a junker that needs bored, crank turned etc and have junk heads that need everything.

I'd go with Vortec heads anyway the performance is great, you will need a new intake, stock vortecs dont like much lift - 470 lift cam suggestion

 

be patient, i probably wouldnt buy an engine from an individual, more times than not, an engine bought from an individual is being sold for a reason not spoken of...basicly the individual is trying to unload it for a reason...

the next thing i would do is go pick up a jegs or summit book and order one of the small block performance rebuild books, they have tons of information in them.. something you can read and get some input on what it takes to build a nice engine... check on a haynes or chilton rebuild manual, they both explain teardown and rebuild procedures pretty good..

another option you could think on, is a mild built big block like a 396-402, they make great torque and are relatively cheap to build, not the most efficient engine but not the worst by far..and if you want torque you'll have it with a big block.. and most stock big block internals are stout enough that you dont have to go aftermarket parts..

just some other ideas for you.. i would definetly get the haynes or chilton book or both..

 

Anyways, onto the dismantling:

What would you do?

The crank will turn---with effort and i was able to get #3 out with no problems after getting 3+4's rod journal to BDC. However, #4 won't move even after pounding with a hammer and pipe with rubber on the end of it:

Also, there might be some new cracking caused by moving that #4 piston up and down in the bore:





Would it be better to take this piston out from the bottom or top? There hasn't been any ridges on the cylinders of the pistons i've taken out so far and #4 doesn't appear to have one either.

P.S. When turning the crank, #4's exhaust lifter, which is still stuck in there did not appear to move. Just thought i would throw that in there for anyone who is still curious; The timing chain is still connected.

 

You can skratch magnafluxing off your to-do list. I wish I could say it's the first time I've seen that.....but it's not.

 

Good luck in your endeavor C10, You will undoubtedly learn from this experience. Hope you're on the road again soon.

 

So.......can pistons on a sbc come out the bottom with the crank removed?

i'm specifically referring to piston #4: And it doesn't appear possible because of the way the block is designed?

1+2 and 7+8 might be possible, but i already got those out.

 

We're talking a 350 chevy-not something rare-throw it away and get a better one.

 

I would take the main caps off and carefully set them on the bench, set the engine on the floor, take my pickup and a chain and drag it out in the pasture. Lippy

 

Maybe an interesting twist?:

After i took the timing gear and chain off(the engine was upside down at this point), i rotated the cam and #4 exhaust lifter fell out. Whereas before it was "stuck."

The cam turned in the block no problems and #4 exhaust lobe seems ok:



i also took apart #4 exhaust lifter and it too "seems" ok, not that i know what to look for because i've never really taken a lifter apart and the books don't really get into detail about this aspect:



This lifter also seemed to move up and down in it's bore after i got the engine turned right side up and was turning the cam by hand. i also tried the lifter in other bores and it also seemed ok.

Given what we now know, what do you think caused this catastrophe?
NOTE: i haven't really looked at the head yet.

 

my best guess is that someones right foot caused it.

 

That one is done for it would cost to much to save, you need to have the cylinder sleved,replace rod, piston, rings, bearings, oil pump, cam, lifters,valve, and check head for cracks, push rod,gaskets set, better off to buy a motor and start over. Later Bill