Let's see some sheet metal shaping

The bashing and shrinking process is quicker and as you mentioned doesn't thin the metal as much. You can create a bowl by just shrinking the perimeter as you mentioned, or stretching the center, but you will get a lot more shape and quicker by doing both.

 

I see. So if I'm using heavy-gauge metal and I'm not in a hurry or trying to make something really deep it's just a matter of speed and preference?

 

Wow this thread is really taking off.I love this stuff ,it's better then anything on TV. and I sure appreciate making my nights all that more interesting.

For the next four weeks I have to work 12 hrs a day 7 days a week.Today was the first day and I pulled and reinstalled four transmissions on a front wheal drive vehicle and I'm pooped.If I don't wright much it is just because I'm to tired.I will start back up when I am through.

Lot of nice stuff was posted since I last checked.I really enjoyed reading them,I especially like the one's with progress pictures.That is how I learned the little I know.

Atom

You had it right if you use just stretching the metal will really thin.What you probably didn't notice is you did shrink the panel as well.If I would have taken that blank set it on the dish of my stump,slammed a hammer blow right in the center of it,it would cause tucks and that is were the shrinking is occurring.

I really want to emphasize that I am a rookie and I am really not qualified to give advice but I will tell you guys what little I do know.

 

Here's a sneak peek on one of my winter projects.My 5 year old son works with me every time I get down into the shop.We went to a car show and there was a little street rod go cart.I couldn't get him away from it,he thought that was just the coolest things he ever seen.So me and my buddy Bill said let's build him one.We started last winter but it got pushed to the side because it's hard for me to get much done in the summer.

I started of by making a wood buck.













Some people can shape the metal right to the buck.It doesn't work for me I need patterns to go off of.So I filled the buck up with foam.Then I painted latex paint over it so the bondo wouldn't eat into the foam.










Next I covered it with bondo.If you noticed I only did half of the buck.That will be all that I need because I can use the pattern for both sides.



Here's a picture of the concept drawing and the rear quarter panel.Hopefully there will be some more to add to this soon.

 

Hello atomickustom,

As others have pointed out, speed and material thickness are a large part of the equation. There are also times when it's just a lot less work to shrink a small portion (say 5&#37 of a panel to achieve a desired shape, as opposed to streching the other 95% to bring things into proportion. Having two approaches available allows us to select the technique most suitable for the particular situation.

Another factor is the material itself. I do lots of work in aluminum (3003 & 6061), which tends to move pretty fast in the english wheel compared to steel sheet. By moving fast I refer to the transition from thick to thinner when wheeling, and aluminum is notorious for thinning out in a real hurry if you get too greedy with the pressure. For this reason, I will always choose to shrink instead of stretch when shaping aluminum if given the choice, because this helps prevent a few short moments of inattention from turning the part into tin foil. Please don't ask me how I know that!

Ken

 

Thanks Ken

Ken is the guy that made that bad ass aluminum hat that was posted here a few weeks back.

One of the best metal shaper's I know.

 

Ah, you're too kind, some of the guys where we come from would make me look like an amateur!

The hot rod is looking good Johnny, I was wondering how that one was coming along. Nice job on the buck, you and Bill managed to capture a nice shape when you designed that one.

Ken

 

I guess I'll come off the bench.

Custom floor made on pullmax for 31 A sedan.

Custom dash made for 25 Dodge modified 19 gauge outer pieces and a old volkswagon hood in the center

Last pic is of top rail on rear of 25 that I made on the pullmax and still need to finish the sides.

 

What kind of tape did you use on your flex pattern?

 

More pics on rear of 25 Dodge With a pic of the dies in the machine. Three progressive passes.

 

It was vinyl transfer tape with packing tape over it. I still think the 3m blue tape is a better option.

 

That cowboy hat looks terrific! Here's an aluminum baseball cap I made last year, some of you may remember seeing it posted here a few weeks ago. More pictures of the hat and the building process can be seen on my website here:

http://home.cogeco.ca/~kenb2/aluminum%20ball cap.htm

Ken

 

Great thread, guys. Truly inspiring.
Ken - where did you get the plans for your wheel and bead roller, or did you design them yourself? How about your wheel, Johnny? The 2 wheels appear to be a substantially different design. I know there are several threads on building your own wheel on the HAMB, but those look quite different than anything I've seen in the archives. I'm betting I'm not the only one who would like to see some how-to notes, etc, on that subject. Especially the adjuster setups, which look really nice and very different from anything I've seen on a home-built wheel before. Also, you mentioned the issue of gauge it would handle - what would you do differently if you built it again? I really like the convertible feature, too.

To everyone contributing to this thread, I just have to say 'wow'. Thanks, and keep the hits coming

 

I posted these in another thread but I'll repeat them here since it's on topic.

Monqiue is .063 3003H14.

 

Hey Kerry. Monique has turned out awesome. Nice job, just need to get the stretch marks off the cans!

 

this turned into a pretty good thread.
i'll post some pic as soon as i can figure out how.

johnny

 

These were done by Paul Gamarth (spelling ?) a friend of Richie Willettes. They were on display at Richies swap meet space at the Alter boys show today. First one is a winterfront grille, second one is a resemblance of a rear fender and quarter panel . Both hand fabbed.

 

I feel retarded

 

I had the basic "C" frame and the upper adjuster built by Imperial Wheeling Machines in Alabama, and then I built the legs and some accessories myself in order to save on shipping costs up to Canada.

I posted a write up on the construction of the wheel at Metalmeet.com, if you are a member you can view it directly at this link in a thread called "My Go-Anywhere English Wheel"

http://http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10330

The beadroller is a one-off, which I designed and built myself back in 2004 when I was too broke to go out and buy a real one. Since I have a bench lathe in the shop, it's no problem spinning up set of custom dies for any occasion I could ever dream up. This unit is a little bit on the lightweight side though, and is only suitable for aluminum work and CRS up to 20 guage. See this Metalmeet thread for a decription of the process, it's called "Building a Home Made Bead Roller":

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1182

I'd make the frame bigger for sure. Not nessessarily a whole lot bigger, but I'd definitely stretch the throat depth from the present 16" up to an 18" or 24" frame size. I ordered it that size because I needed to fit it into a workshop the size of a telephone booth at the time, and most of the work I had in mind for it was all small scale stuff anyhow.
The small frame and the two sets of legs are a terrific feature, because us Metalmeet guys often get together in various locations with their english wheels and shape some metal. So far I'm the only guy I know who can throw his english wheel over one shoulder and throw it in the back of my truck all by myself!

Ken

 

Great thread, go to the meetshapers often. I too, am having difficulties with wire edges, I guess I need to get the right tipping tool for the bead roller.
Anyway, thanks guys, For all the tips.... OLY

The cancer car lives
Give to cancer research

 

that rear fender piece is beautiful !!!

gary

 

This is a good thread! It's such a treat to see such talented craftsmen. Thanks y'all and keep the pics coming!

 

x2 PLEASE!

 

Sorry I have been kinda quite here lately.Just been working a lot,84 hours a week.The money's real good but there is absolute no time for my self.

I'm designing a new English Wheel.I have started on the adjuster but I will have to wait until this spurt of work is done to finish it.When it is I will document the build of my new English Wheel.

 

I made this panel for my brothers Tudor.



I started with a couple of pieces of MDF and a 1/2" roundover bit in the router.



It came out of the hammer form looking like this




I don't have a pic of the next step, but I ran it through a pullmax to put in the small bead on the edge. then a test fit.



Here's the finished panel.



J.

 

J. Clear, the hammer form patch looks great

 

Here are some pics of the floor I put in my Dad's truck. Kind of a step by step. I used strinking dies in my Pullmax and an E-wheel to smooth everything out. The bump in front of the shifter, I used a panishing hammer to raise. I had about 25 hours worth of work in it. I also built the cab extensions on the lower front of the cab and the chin piece under the grill

 

just a few things we've done
first is a hood on a 38 IH truck cab that has a 37 ford car front sheetmetal



a bee the wife did


gas tank with the mudflap girl embossed in the side


johnny

 

another hat.......

it's a good idea to practice with stuff like this......

btw, I didn't do this.

 

Can you post a picture of the top of that stump with nothing on it?