Customs lets talk coils why do i keep going threw them?

Yes, internally resisted to 1.5 ohm. Internal resistance coils can vary from .2 to 3 or more ohms depending on applications (there are probably others that are outside of those parameters, but not common)
Just because it says it's internally resisted doesn't mean a whole lot - you need to know What the resistance is. Truthfully, the Ignitor will run with a 3 ohm internally resisted coil, it will just have a lower spark energy.

To your original question about why you are burning up coils, well, more info is probably needed. Is there a chance that voltage is still being supplied to the coil after the car is shut off? What position is the coil mounted in/ Where is the coil mounted? Are you using cheapo Chinese coils?
Etc.

 

i dont leave the key on, except when i brake a ball joint at 65 and the car died

 

the ciol is up side down and yes it was a cheepy i bought in flagstead az on the way to kansas im gona get the correct coil now that i understand this better but for my trip tomarrow to andy brizios xmas party im gona tryu and get a 6o's ford internaly resisted job !
thanxs

 

If you can mount the coil terminal side up, that will help as well. many coils don't have enough oil in them and they get hot when they are upside down and that can be a problem. Also they can weep oil out which only compounds the problem.

 

WOW 34 posts and we are all over the place with the good , bad and ugly answers.
If you are eating coils on any vehicle the problem is always the same ....too much HEAT !!!

And the heat always comes from using a incorrect resistance in the primary circuit of the ignition. Causing a very high primary current!!

Number one cause of incorrect resistance is incorrect part ( either chinese or just the wrong part) usually with a very low resistance ( less than 1.5 ohm).


Typically you need for your application a 1.5 ohm ignition coil, oil filled is fine.
AND shouldnt make any difference on how the coil is mounted as ONLY a defective coil will allow the oil to run out.

Send me a pm and i will send you a american made ignition coil with 1.5 ohms and oil filled to try out on your vehicle.................love to help anytime we can

 

thanxs ill change it back right side up i did it that way for a reason i forgot now when i was on the side of the road some thing was short and it work up side down

 

After some more thoughts here there is another issue that might cause this problem..

"you said its hard to start and after a while wont start at all"

Lets say theres a wiring problem ( ie : coil wire, connection in the plug wires, rotor or somewhere in the secondary plugs wide gaps etc) that requires a very high coil voltage all the time.
This would make it hard to start and the coil being operated with high voltage all the time would weaken with use and heat, and then not be able to supply this high voltage anymore .
A fresh coil would be good for a few starts etc and then fail as well.....
Just some more thoughts ?????????

 

While you are right it SHOULDN'T make a difference, I have seen MANY coils, from many different manufacturers (including Andover) leak oil when mounted upside down or vertically. It should never happen if the coil is made right, but the fact is it does happen occasionally and an easy precaution is to not mount them upside down and take the risk - even though you shouldn't have to.
Hell VW's came mounted upside down and Ford mounted them vertically, but unfortunately quality isn't what it once was in the world of coils.

Also make sure you have good quality plug wires, not some old solid cores or something that has high resistance

 

I thought Pertronix was in Ponca Oklahoma????

 

Uh, No - Always been in So Cal - since the original company, Per Lux was founded in 1962

 

Yea, had the same problem with my 29. I'm running a 2.5 AMC 4 banger with a dizzy from FS Ignition. A coil came with it but did not last long and then went through 4 coils from NAPA. Tired of it, I called Bubbas in Indy. He sold me a coil and said that would be the last coil I would need. Well so far its been there for a good while and like he said, its been the last coil I need. Knows his stuff and he a straight shooter. Iceman

 

I have a 1980 lawnmower with a Kohler engine that had the coil mounted upside down. The coil failed in 2003. Picked up a coil at NAPA that was supposed to be an internal resistance one listed for the Kohler engine. Mounted it in the original bracket and it died in less than an hour with oil running all over. Tried mounting a replacement terminals up. It lasted about 4 hours. We tried several different coils with no luck. Finally I dug into some boxes of old parts and found a coil we pulled off a 66 Chevy 327 before we put it in a race car. I put it on to finish mowing the lawn and it's been on there ever since. Today's parts are crap. It doesn't matter where you buy them, they likely all come from the same place.

 

had a situation I alueded to earlier where the Plymouth started eating coils... in the worst possible places! Generally, over fifty miles from anywhere. It is a complete, matched M.S.D. system with they're recomended coil and all. After the second go round, in a completely different dimension of pissed off, I called they're tech line and as calmly as possible explained what was going on. The first question was "how is the coil mounted?" On a bracket, on it's side, was my answer. The recomendation? Same coil, just get the ceramic filled. Explanation, when an oil filled coil is layed on it's side, it exposes a large potion of it's windings as the oil runs to the low side, giving the dry coils a chance to heat up and burn down. I did what I was told, and bought the ceramic filled coil... 100,000 miles ago!

 

Go back to good American made points/cond (I buy 5 sets at a a time NOS on line), American made coil, the proper ballast resister....and you'll die of old age before having any problems. Sorry, but electronic ignition is like old days "snake oil" hype. An efficient points system will give you fair warning of any on coming issues. An electronic system, while OK when it works, gives you NO SUCH WARNING. It just leaves you stranded.

 

Groucho is right..

Better go with GMC Bubba. He already made you an offer you can't refuse, not to mention he knows his shit too....

 

I doubt it is "Ceramic" filled, most likely Epoxy.

As for side mounting, it can be fine with a good oil filled coil, but the terminals should be mounted horizontally, not vertical. When it is vertical is when you can have a problem with the winding above the oil level. Cheap coils that leak, or that don't have enough oil will still be a problem.

 

You are right Don, epoxy filled. Been awhile since I have bought a coil, i guess. interesting thought on the clocking of a coil layed on it's side, and makes perfect sense. I took a look at the Plymouth right now and gues how the terminals are clocked?! All I know is with the epoxy filled, what was frequent problem became a non issue... After quite the learning curve!

 

hey don are the pertronix coils epoxy filled?

 

big creep, they are either oil or epoxy filled . I had a similar issue with a pertronix coil. Not being able to get one here fast enough I called Pertronix and spoke to a tech. The 1.5 ohm coil CAN be replaced and work fine with an Accel super stock coil of 1.2 ohm ( but no lower). It's been on there now for 3 years with no trouble.

 

We offer both Oil Filled and Epoxy filled coils

 

I also prefer to get the coil off the engine and mount it to the firewall, less heat and vibration.

Bob

 

Ok lets handle one myth after tha other .

First and foremost the oem maker of the coil will install the correct amount of oil per coil and then vacuum test the unit to test for leaks.
Once properly filled the coil will operate as designed with no exposed windings , no bubbles and work in any position.

If the seal does leak now we have a problem with windings etc.

So in reality only a defective coil will have a problem with windings.

I have a tool box full of defective coils from just about every manufacture of coils, the worse being in the last couple years with the off shore (chinese ) made units. One brand actually told me they were all made in china and approx 50% failed testing when recieved at the factory, however they were so cheap ( meaning high profits) that was acceptable.......
WOW i couldnt live with that one.....

 

Correct, if they are manufactured properly every-time this is true, Unfortunately Quality Control with many of these coil manufacturers is not what it should be ~ we have cut apart coils from every manufacturer and found inconsistency's - some worse than others obviously.

The other problem is the consumer. If you check with Summit or Jeg's or any other large retailer of performance products, you will find that inexpensive coils out sell the expensive ones by a zillion to ones (OK slight exaggeration). If you look at what most of the name brand coils sell for (between $22.00 and 40.00) you will see that is where the market is. When you figure out the economics of a manufacturer distributing a product through the normal channels, where each step needs to make a reasonable profit to stay in business you will quickly realize that the only remaining American Coil manufacturer cannot, or is unwilling to, compete and this requires foreign sourced products. The other American ignition companies took their production overseas as well, or pulled out of the business all together.
The problem with coils in the market place is the consumer and his perception of value. If we offered a canister style coil that was above reproach in quality and US made it would have to retail for about double what the current market trend is. The consumer can't see, and therefore can't justify, the difference in a $25.00 coil and what would be an $80.00 price tag. It is an unfortunate consequence of the perception of the product and the value the consumer sees. As long as there are other countries that are willing to subsidize their manufacturing companies and economies that allow for people to earn the equivalent of as little as $4.00 a day, and we don't put a tariff on such products, then the consumer will continue to drive the market by buying such goods and continue to make WalMart the largest retailer in the world and car companies like Kia and Hyundai to thrive and overtake domestic brands.
Sorry to have taken a slightly political slant, but this is the reality of ignition coil manufacturing and sales in the US.

 

At the risk of sliding waaaaay off the "on topic" cracker and starting a shit storm of foreign policy and political rants. My former employer did the exact same thing. Buying US castings, machining them, and selling them, proved not to be cost effective. They found a "competative" casting supplier in China. After almost a year of completly unusable castings, they eventually got them close enough. By this time, it was established that the castings could also be machined abroad, as well. Again, it took months before the parts even resembled anything usefull. As of the day I left, they were still sorting eveything incoming, and throwing 40-50% right into the scrap hopper. But, they had quadrupled the profit, even with shipping and 50% fallout. Sign of the times, I guess. Now back to your regularly scheduled programing!

 

once again what grandpa said was correct, if ya buy shit, your gonna get shit on boy!

 

this is very true, i would rather spend a few more bucks to get a quality product that last! shit i pay 150 bucks for my work boot, yes it cost more but, it keep an American employed! and thats what we all should be doing!

 

I dunno. I have a lot of good coils here that if shook, you can hear the liquid. That's only possible if there's some air

 

Just a matter of reference , our coils sell for $61, and customers dont complain (especially when they are on their 3rd brand x coil)
Quality is sometimes hard to find........

 

Got to have that room for expansion of the oil etc. They should shake and slosh....

 

Did you ever hook up your pertronix backwards? I hooked one up backwards a long time agao and it wouldnt start so I figured out it was hooked up wrong. I then hooked up the wires the right way, it started and ran. BUT it kept leaving me on the side of the road after so many minutes of running. Figured I fried it and when and got another one and hooked it up correctly and it has been in my car for 14 years now and still works fine with the same coil. My coil even has a small hole on the bottom from something rubbing against it years agao.