Lets Talk Mopar Flathead 6's...

When i said i wanted to time my 230 mill i meant settin up tha dissy to No1 most motors i whip out No1 sparkplug and insert a screw driver/or whatever and turn tha motor over so No1 piston is up and bingo i set my dizzy to that. Except when i yanked the mill outa my ute I tried to give it away no luck,and unfortunately took out all the plug wires and accessories to throw it then found that the motor spun over real easy so i decided to keep it.How do you know No1 is up?.

 

Here is an old pic of a Racecar with a Plymouth 6 in it.

The 1954 Morgensen Special.

Dick Morgensen later swapped a Buick Nailhead into the race car, and after Max Bachowski ended up with it and pained it Yellow it became famous as "Ol' Yeller"...

 

stick your finger over/in the spark plug hole- it'll blow compression past on the right stroke.

 

Has anyone ever super/turbocharged one of these? I have a 251 Chrysler mill out of my '47 and just looking at how massive it was, and naturally strong in torque, it seemed like it'd be perfect. Something like 6:1 stock compression too, think of the boost...

 

from whati hear, these motors respond very well to turbocharging and supercharging...


on a side note, i just fired my motor up today... ita a 48 inline six with a few modifications....

 

Mine's a 55 Plymouth with 230 and three on the tree. Motor is currently stock except 0.050" off the head, and a Smithy. Once I get her road-legal, I'll look at making a twin carb manifold and headers.
For you guys looking at turbo-ing, there's a guy at the forum on www.p15-d24.com who is starting a documented build.
There's a lot of info on these motors on the Mopar forum at www.inliners.org including Hudsonator's 230 used in a tractor-pull. He runs this motor up to 6000 rpm's with a crossdrilled crank.

 

More about the tourqeflite conversion please. Can you use a 904? I'm interested. My sweetheart want to drive my car but stalls it every time she takes off. NOT COOL! people know its my car, I live in a small town. What will they think?

 

Moparsled. Ever tried sticking ya finger over a hole when both hands are turnin it over? I,d allready thought of that,Thanx just tha same mate. Gives me a brainwave tho :i might just use my handy ratchet with tha rightsocket 2 turn it.Still how do you know its top dead centre .Can ya bend some light gauge wire to reach tha piston so you no its comin up via tha spark plug hole or is there a notch in tha balancer to go by.Mines pretty rusty.How do you wire these suckers up, coil to dizzy,ign 2 starter2 battery & are they 6 or 12volt. These motors are new to me used to GM/H style 6,s.[chevs].

 

most have a plug over the number six piston that you can take out. use this to find tdc for that piston, then I think you turn 360 and your on tdc for #1. Or something like that. better double check, I've never done it I just think that's what I read somewhere.

Gary

 

have somebody else bump the key for you, or use a pair of pliers to jump the solenoid if you're alone.

 

Chiming in with another flatty. I am runing a 56 P26 230 flatty in my 46 business coupe. Recently rebuilt, at .030 over pistons, stock cam, .040 of the head and .010 of the deck. Running dual George Asche modified Carters on a Fenton intake. Stock exhaust manifold with 2 in ID pipe and a dynamax turbo low restriction muffler. This combination yields about 8 to 1 compression, and 146 HP at the rear wheels on a Mustang Chassis dyno. stock 3 speed with stock 4.1 to 1 rear end. pulls hard. In third gear pulls 40 to 65 as well as any of our daily drivers. Have driven from Syracuse, ny to PA, Vermont, Rhinebeck, Niagara Falls, gets about 19 mpg.

 

iv'e got a 230 in my 53 Dodge. It seems to use a ton of oil. Like a quart every 80 miles. IT smokes the first time you take off after sitting for a while but then it doesn't seem to that much. Only has 48,000 on it.

 

If it does all that, I have the cure. Put a HEMI in it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! KNUX!

 

You've probably got busted top compression rings like me and Blueskies had. It's quite common and even though it's the top ring, it will cause escess oil consumption.

Also, they respond exceptionally well to forced induction. Because the intake ports inherently flow poorly, forcing air into them helps dramatically.

 

Just read somewhere that the valves actually flow better than a Furd motor, and the relieving was not a necessary modification. If you look at the specs on carnut, you can see that HP increased with compression over the years, so squeezing the charge either with machining or external pressure is the most effective and most economical way of getting extra horses. I picked up about 25 with more compression and the extra carburation. I'm sure the .030 pistons added a bit but I gotta thing the raise in CR was the biggest contributor.

 

Mopar flatheads don't require valve relieving like the Fords do. On teh ford motors, the valves are sunk below the deck a bit, and relieving them helps smoothe the transition to the deck. The Mopar valves however sit flush with teh deck, so relieving is not required, or even really possible.

 

Here's what I can contribute to the thread......When I build a Mopar flathead six I always balance them. I've found it smoothes them out at all rpms and frees up hp at upper rpms. I also install stainless valves, 350 Chevy fits perfectly for both intake and exhaust. I make dual and triple carb intakes the old fashioned way, brazing the pots in place. I do exhausts the same way adding a second dump for the forward three cylinders. I don't block off the manifold into two separate exhausts. The idea is to double the exhaust flow, not separate them. No need for an H pipe or anything this way, and it still sounds cool. I deck the block .010 and mill the head .050 to raise compression and guarantee a good head gasket surface. If you run Carter 1bbls, George Asche is the man to get them from, period. He is hands down the best flathed guy alive today. He does intakes and exhausts as well and builds engines, great guy. If you want to run highway speeds, 65-70 and up you can install an overdrive, a t-5 five speed tranny, or install a 3:55-3:70 range rear end. I run a 3:23 in my Plymouth wagon, but it's a little tough on the clutch when the car is loaded down with people or stuff, 3:55 would be ideal. I can run 75 all day long though once I get up to speed. And if you're running highway speeds you will like the better brakes out back, and you should consider front discs, which I also make for mopar cars 36-54 and mopar trucks 35-56.

 

Moose made me a dual intake too. I'm running a 49 Chrysler Spitfire with 2 Carter carbs and Smithy's too. My tranny is a fluid drive, and as of Sat night, I now know it lays rubber!

 

Here is one from southern central NY, this one of the 265 cu in variety in a roadster.

 

Over the #6 piston is a small plug. Unsrew it and use a piece of wire stuck down in the whole. The #6 and #1 piston move in the same direction.

 

My '51 also has the flathead six. I need to rewire the car before I can try and see if it runs (right now I know it turns over by hand). And as long as it doesn't have a rod knock or anything,that engine is staying put and I'll end up upgrading the trans and rear.

 

...doesn't anyone look at the last date on the thread before they opine...


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