I've seen references to this on here a couple of times, but in spite of my best efforts in the search modes, I can't locate complete process directions....old age, computer illiteracy, lack of forum knowledge.....whatever. After a frustrating evening on google, and every window tinting/glass installer rant known to man, I'm throwing myself on the mercy of you guys. I have a quantity of clear lexan I'm wanting to cut and install in my Willys, and I want the old time look...tinted windows. The glass/plastic sites I looked at are pretty much in agreement that "film" tinting will not work due to "outgassing" of the lexan and subsequent bubbling of the film. I presume the outgassing is comparable to lacquer paint drying, and the evaporation of fluids leading to drying? Bullshit or can it be made to work? I also read of a "paint" used by the model car groups for their lexan bodies. Is this a workable solution? Bottom line, just how in the hell does a frugal (cheap ass) rodder do his own tinting, to yield presentable results, so it won't have to be replaced due to bubbling (film) or streaking (paint) or whatever else....Just what is the Rit Dye process and how does it work? Anyone done it with what kind of results did you have?
Found this Buy some Rit Dye in the color you want to use, several boxes, because you want to make a very concentrated mixture able to cover the piece to be colored, follow the directions except use half of the amount of water. You now need to heat the mixture to a temprature of 145 to 160, keeping it at that temp., don't exceed 160 or it may start to flex if it's sheeted materials, submerge the piece in the fluid, after a period of time remove and immediately submerge in a cold water bath, when cool, dry it off, if it's not the desired color do it again and again until you get the color saturation you want. Larger pieces can be done the same way in an oven with a deep cookie sheet or cassarole dish, this is diffulcult because of warping. I've done small decorative pieces and rod material this way and have been very successful. Goodluck
I typed in "Rit Dye Lexan" and found a little information. From what I gather, you mix the dye in water, heat it, taking care to not get it hot enough to warp the lexan, immerse the lexan until the desired tint is reached. I would experiment on small scraps if I was doing it. Hope this helps. Bob
Find the local vinyl sign guy and have him order transparent vinyl in the color of your choice. We used green on my Crosley and it worked great and was cheap. Ted
You can't film tint lexan? Really? Could've swore I've seen it a bunch. What's their definition of durable? Film tint is really a 5-10 year treatment when you look at how it hazes & fades. Ted, how's the clarity of that sign vinyl? Neat solution btw good luck
I have used film tint on lexan with no issues, just that the lexan has to be free of scratches and nicks, thats what gives you bubbles. Chuck, if you remember my black 55 with blue windows, that what I used on it.
The back yard way in the 60's was to use rattle can paint that was sold for that purpose. A translucent paint, maybe like a candy? Any body else remember this? Lots of light coats. And the runs gave it character. But we used plexiglass whatever that was it was not as durable as lexan which came out in the early 70's. That old stuff was very prone to scratching and eventually turned white in the sun. I like the translucent film idea.
That was Cal Custom's spray on window tint. I did my 1957 in Bronze in 1968, looked good for many years. John
I just tinted( amber tint film) lexan windows for a friend about three weeks ago...no problems as of yet....fyi....you can't use a razor blade to swipe clean the the lexan like you do regular glass windows or it will leave scratch marks....
Early 70's I had a glass shop supply AND cut the 4 side windows on my 56' Chevrolet 150 Business Coupe Bracket Car. They used 5/16" thick Acrylite, in RED. Car was refridgerator white, and the red windows really set it apart. The Acrylite is FLEXIBLE, you could punch or push on the windows and they would'nt crack or break. It only cost me $80.00 back then, materials and cutting. We've finally got a new computer, time to learn how to use this scanner and post some pics. Butch/56sedandelivery.
I've dyed some cloth material. It's a bitch to get a steady temp, you might be able to do it on an electric stove top, but whatever you put in the dye/water mix sucks the dye out of the water. Presumably the Lexan would absorb less or do it more slowly. Trying to find something to use to put large windows in isn't going to be easy either. I have to think it would be easier and look better to use a film on it, and I don't see why you couldn't do that as long as your material isn't scratched up.
I have dyed white Hot Wheels cars using the rit dye method, I have done them both heated and cold, the cold takes longer but it still works. You might try it cold in a small wading pool. Get some scrap pieces and experiment.
I used to dye clear plastic slot car bodies with Rit Dye in the 60s. Worked well. Try it on some small pieces/samples of Lexan. Optometrists can dye clear plastic eyeglass lenses and make them sunglasses. They have a variety of colors to choose from, and the way I understand it, the longer they leave lenses in the dye, the darker the lens gets. If the Rit Dye tests do not come out that well, you might want to ask a local optometrist about where they get their lens dye and try that.
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