Hot Rods Light car trailer...

I would borrow or rent a small trailer and tow the car behind your Jeep just to see how well it works before you buy/build a trailer. You can keep a trailer light by making tire ramps instead of a full floor. You also need to be sure about the positioning of the weight on the trailer even though its a light car. Its more about where the weight is than how much it is. Bought a rare 14' leaf brake many years ago and had to haul it from Michigan to Ky on a 16 ft trailer. There was no room to adjust the weight any farther forward, so it was what it was. At about 55 mph it would begin to wag. Naturally it was raining heavily on the trip back. Set the flashers and got in the slow lane. You don't realize how many semi trucks are on the road till its raining and everyone of them is p***ing you and you can't see. Anyway I learned my lesson about getting the load positioned properly.

Here is a small airplane trailer that is task specific and might give you some ideas for a lightweight trailer.

 

Rusty, If you wan't to build something similar, I can furnish a drawing, with critical dimensions. The axle set back is the most important.

 

I had a 10' Chicago Brake, never saw a 14' before !

 

I appreciate it Marty, but am probably going to check out the boat trailer route. I will have to spread the wheel width a bit (a**** other things...) Be kinda nice if it tilted, then leveled out when the car was fully on and pulled forward...

 

Might just buy an aluminum trailer............

 

If you tow an old automatic equipped car that has a rear pump, you don't have a problem because the rear pump will supply the lube circuit to the gear train and bushings. Towing a car newer than 1965 (when the deleted rear pumps) will turn the trans output shaft and most of the gears in the gear train with no lube to the gears and bushings. I have rebuilt automatic transmissions that were damaged by towing. It's pretty expensive. You can by-p*** the problem by running the engine with the trans in neutral. That way the gear train and bushings are properly lubed.

Yes, you were lucky, but I'm sure there was some damage done especially on a turbo 350. You may not see the damage right away if you didn't tow too far.

 

Thanks jaracer. I had it backward, but back in the day I dragged a lot of cars around like that. Full disclosure, I was always careful, disciplined, didn't take stupid chances or get in a hurry. Also never did long distance tows, and I think usually something was dragged by strap or tow bar for an hour or so and any further was trailer work. I appreciate the input, that was a lifetime ago

 

Here is one I built years ago. Trailer weighs around 1000# and has a 3500# axle leaving a payload capacity of 2500#. This is more than enough to haul a light car or anything else you can imagine. Pulls easily and effortlessly behind the wife's Explorer

 

Looks good. I am very leery of treasure cars on trailers. But the math is right.
Be very sure that you understand, and commit to keeping the front ( both trailer and combination ) heavier than the back.
The same goes for the fact that the safety chains must be crossed. Having a, God forbid, a 'popoff' with uncrossed chains, results in two vehicles behaving like a set of bolos. Til momentum, speed is lost the trailer and tower are doing a dance that ends usually somewhere off the road.
You'll be fine with the right trailer. x your chains.