Lincoln V12 engine needs a car build around it

LOL.... maybe that's why I remember that car after all these years...

 

I saw a single scat flathead ford rod on ebay and bought it to see what is acceptable.




If I'm being honest its kinda scary looking. The originals "solved" the rod to bore clearance by making the studs part of the rod forging so I guess this is an improvement....but wow.

On the plus side its pretty light at 558g. The stock lincoln rods are about 632g. The version I sketched is about 825g which I thought was good when I google BBDC and found 810g for a 6.635" long rod so I figured I was about where I should be on everything. so I was pretty surprised at the scat rod weight. I'm HOPING for 35hp/cylinder but planning for 25hp/cylinder, so no where near the 100/cylinder a decent BBC can make..I use 4mm walls on the beam, scat used 2mm so I can probably pull some weight out. but I'm thinking its WAY better to be safe than sorry.

This is the current stat of design. I designed for ARP 3/8 x 1.6long bolts. Relatively easy to machine and very strong....but I may pull some weight off.

 

Scary indeed. But if that’s all is needed for your HP/RPM range then you can probably shave 100 grams off your design.

 

100g was exactly what i was thinking......

 

690g now and the beam has about 15% more meat than the scat

 

I like your way of thinking

 

This prototype just arrived. This particular unit electric power steering unit is going in the ferrari (to replace a fiesta unit I broke )but I suspect his build will get 1 too.....I love quick steering (I have the ferrari at 1.7 turns lock to lock) but just hate fighting with the steering wheel.


I had this custom made, its similar to the AVT units on amazon, same small case, but a different motor and controller....yes I hotrodder a power steering unit .

Those are 360W and 36N-m (26.5ft-lb) and this is 400W but 46Nm (34ft-lb) max constant assist. I put a torque wrench on the ferrari, with the quick steering and sitting parked in the garage its is 30Nm so this will easily deliver 1 finger steering in that car

I powered it up to make sure it turned on and for whatever reason I decided to clamp a 10" vise grip on and try and hold it while I turned the ujoint with my other hand. I could hold 2.5A (30W- it goes to 400W)...and my poor brain was not doing well processing what it was seeing/feeling with the u-joint hand so easily over powering the vise grip hand.



The controller is also different (from a car, higher power) and programmed differently. It accepts a PWM output (the little red wire) and varies the output 0-100% based on the frequency of the PWM input. you get 100% if its not connected, but it can connect directly of most after market ECUs or a buddy of mine is designing a little adapter that will have Reluctor, Hall, CAN inputs and probably a simple phone app so you should be able to connect to any wheel speed or eclectic speedo or ECU and set whatever % assist you want at whatever speed or just set it to a constant that feels good.

With the adapter I can sell them for $399 (unless import rules change), way cheaper than the ATV units mostly because this is based on higher volume automotive parts and since its for a car, not waterproof.

The Zyphstaer 12 should end up light enough to not NEED power...but it sure is easy to get used to nice things so its probably worth the 10lb weight hit.

 

Reminds me of a guy who built one car and was in the process of another. He lives in this area in Prescott, but I couldn't find his site. Amazing work.Only saw the build online.
I did find this site, but haven't gone through it yet. These people are your target market, you just need to find them.
https://www.lambobuilder.com/chassis/

EDIT: Found him.
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/modern-day-miura.54786/
If you search he's also on this forum. I didn't come across his thread, but it's in there. This might help you with body shaping, too. I don't want you to leave here, but it might help with that part of this project.
https://allmetalshaping.com/forumdisplay.php?f=20&order=desc
EDIT2: it's on page 2 titled Modern Day Mura. Shame you can't view the threads without logging in.

 

Its mostly a public service notice. I couldn't find anything I liked spec or price wise so I assume others have the same issue and its pretty simple for me hit "reorder" once I've built 1 for myself as the actual work is all done.

 

I decided to print the rod to see it but mostly I want to drop it in the block just to be sure but that will be another day.

 

It was Lincoln night. I fought the damper off the crank figuring it needs to come off and it will be lighter. Then cleaner up a piston and scared myself a bit when I saw the markings


But its the 06 doesn't mean 60 over, its stock


then knocked the rust out of a couple bores so the piston would slide


rod on piston and bearing in



and piston/rod assembly goes in.



then crank in the block and check clearance....yeah....0 give or take


I'm sure the block can be clearance to make it work but I think I'm going to slim up the rod a touch....it needs to handle about 30hp not 150.

Also I was curious, the stock piston is 390g, the pin 60g. For comparison the frankenferrari piston (3.386 bore vs 2.875) is 300g and the pin is 83g. I'm guessing the new pistons will come in at like 260-280g and new pins 60-70 (the stock pins are scary thin) so it should be over 100g saving.

 

I slimmed the beam a bit so it will fit better and a few other changes....630g now, just 8g over stock rod weight. Just about time to place an order I think

 

Outstanding! Do you think it would be worthwhile to reinstall the stock rod to check clearance? Maybe work outwards from there.

 

The block has a sort of round clearance ground in that kind of matches the big end of the stock rods, so that could be reshaped to match the new rods if need be....its pretty common to need to clearance the block for better rods.

The 1st version there was maybe/about 1mm interference to the beam. I slimmed the beam 3mm per side and the big end already fit fine so it should just fit now, but I can print the new version and confirm. Its about a 16 hour print, I'll kick it off tonight and test fit it tomorrow.

 

The rod looks like its printing fine but the cap failed and will need to be reprinted....so it goes. I do want to see the new cap but its not needed for test fitting as the heavier one fits. Once I'm happy with the fit I need to triple check all the dimensions and fits. Once this is all sorted I do need to get back to the ferrari engine....but I'm thinking I'll bump the lincoln flow work ahead of any chassis work because real flow numbers means I can start getting numbers I trust a bit more out of dynomation, and knowing what hp to expect helps with the rest of the design work.

 

The new rod looks more proportional to the piston I think


Then worst case clearance to the block it like 0.060-0.070 (with a feeler gage so I think its fine now.


Then more more as the piston moves lower

 

With custom pistons will the pin location change?
Most modern designs will be closer to the ring pack, which will change the rod angle.
That might change rod length too.
I assume you still want a long skirt for the long stroke.
I would suggest printing out a piston to mock up and check too.

 

The new rods are 7.75" long, stock is 7.4", so the pin moves up 0.350" in the new piston....that will change the side clearance a LITTLE...5%ish to 60-70 becomes 0.057-0.067ish. ..but yeah, I could print a piston if I take the time to design one.



On the skirt I figured shorten it to save weight and take some load off the crank. I'm not sure yet what the top of the piston should look like, or the top of the bore (relieved? radius? so I don't yet know where the top ring goes exactly.

I have heads I plan to use....and would prefer not to weld all new combustion chambers into them....I could, you know how I roll, but I'd prefer not to. because this is supposed to be a car build not a lifetime on 1 engine. So that limits how much cutting I can do in the chambers but the general thought I'm having is.

While I was playing with the block I took some rough port measurements and put those numbers in dynamation, then corrected intake manifold and headers to match and the wave simulation is not looking pretty correct. I was using a simpler model that less less info to ballpark, the wave model gives a lot more info though. This is the schneider 254 mechanical cam (light green/red) compared to their 262H-10 hydraulic cam (dark green/dark red)....about 15hp gain for the mechanical (only 8 in the basic model).

In in the 2nd graph you can see the intake and exhaust wave tuning...the exhaust is tuned to pull about 5pis vacuum during valve cross-over to get the intake charge moving and scavenge the chamber, then the intake is making about 3 psi as the intake valve closes...that is how "tuned" intake and headers add hp. If I change the runner lengths those pulses change..they shift rpm and the number of reflections will change with bigger length changes. The headers are pretty standard 3rd reflection (3 pulses on the graph...shorties you'd expect 4, long tube headers 2 but 3 is usually optimal for hp. In the intake its a vert short runner at 6.5" valve to trumpet....you see the wave completely disappears there are so many reflections. Normally intake want to also be 3 reflection but the port is much too small and the software is saying the flow restriction of a well tuned runner is higher than the gain the tuning delivers so a very short runner the allow recapture of the flow momentum is about the best I can do....so you only see 2-3 psi where something like the frankenferrari the pulse is 10-12 psi....there will be a lot of focus on what can be done to improve the intake port.

The 3rd graph is intake and exhaust velocities ...about 0.5 mach for both which is lower side of right for exhaust but a little high for intake perhaps. But remember I just pulled in flathead ford flow numbers I found, the Lincoln will likely be different but this is a start.

 

This is an 1/8" pop-up, radius corner, upper ring lowered to be 1/4" from the top of the bore, pin moved for the longer rod. A little porky at 280g but well under the stock 390g and at the high end of what I guessed. It will be off the printer tomorrow

 

I "honed" the big end (aka ran a flapper wheel through it) to ge the bearings to sit in right.....hmmmm...that's not right and the chambers are missing as well

 

I don't know your costs for the printer and filament, but that's got be cheaper than finding out issues AFTER the new rods arrive.

 

Its a resin printer not filament. There is a liquid tank and a UV projector cures the layers into shape. Prices are lower now but a couple years about is was like $600 for the printer and wash/cure station...it comes out of the print all covered in resin was alcohol wash then into the uv light so the surface isn't sticky....or wash and into the sun light for a bit. The resin is about $40/liter so $10-$20 for the bits I've posted.

It has it uses for sure. Its nice to just see a physical part. Dimensions are okish so it needs work to assemble anything with actual tolerances....but yeah. seeing parts makes the drawing checking go a lot faster and I don't say need to model the bearing to and do a CAD assembly, I can just do an assembly to catch big errors but small errors you won't see on printed part usually so good and bad really. some stuff like the velocity stacks on the frankenferrari are printed as well as bolt covers on the mirror that are NLA...stuff like the with now real load on it works fine off the printer.

The piston print ALMOST failed


but good enough although it will need to visit the lathe before it will fit the bore. When I get into the porting I'll finalize the dome, then let the piston company do the actual piston design, but this is probably about right and has the relocated pin and shorter skirt...I mean who doesn't like to see a short skirt?

 

With the cap on



And eyeballing TCD, it should be 1/8" pop-up and that looks right