I just put an Olds 303 and Cad-LaSalle trans in a '48 Plymouth with the stock rear end. Since the stock parking brake was on the drive line- no rear parking brake. Is a line lock OK for parking? I'm wondering about pressure on wheel cyl. seals for a few hours as opposed to seconds on a start line. Anybody done it? Any problems?
There was a very popular "lock" used on trucks, especially wreckers, to lock all the brakes. Mico-Brake I think. It was a manual lever, not electric. So, does the line lock need power "on" to keep it locked up? The only thing I would prefer, is some sort of E brake just in case....but what do I know
I think line lock does need power on to work the solenoid. An E brake needs to be fail safe.....like a nice strong cable.
bad idea. lineloc only works if there is fluid in the system and power to make it lock and you have to hit the pedal first to pump it up. they are also designed for momentary useage not long term. would more than likely overheat and fail in short order.
IMHO, line lock is no e-brake. E-brake is supposed to be a separate system, not relying on hydraulics
MICO made a "LEVER-LOC " that was mechanical no electric power required. BUT won't do you a bit of good you loose hydraulic pressure. Short term parking maybe.
I just looked up Mico Brake Locks. Still made but wicked pricey is an understatement. If you can't find another way to get a park brake, try looking for a used Mico Lever Lock at an old truck yard. Fire trucks had them too. Dash mounted usually, simple hook up. Or, better yet, maybe see how hard it would be to put a small disc brake on the front of the rear end?
Thanks for replies. Note I said parking brake not E-brake. Who's got a driveline disk set-up that works for a reasonable amount ?
A line lock would not be legal, as a parking brake, in most states. As far as this whole "E brake" deal is concerned, the manufacturers stopped calling them emergency brakes years ago. Though they are just slightly better than nothing, they should be considered "parking brakes" and little else. BTW, Jamar make a manual line lock. They're about 30 bucks and there is no solenoid to overheat. Just splice it in.
Why not replace the rear axle with something newer that not only has an e-brake but has better brakes to start with?? And while you're at it, put disc on the front. A 48 PLY had ok brakes in 48, but by today's standards ...not so good. .
Yeah, that manual sand rail lock thing looks like what I was thinking about. Still wonder if brake cyl seals are made to hold pressure over time. Don't know they they wouldn't, but?? BTW. The stock driveline brake works fine for parking, but trying to stop the car from 20mph is about like dragging your foot on the ground.
Actually, when the Plymouth brakes are properly adjusted with the drums off, with an Ammco 1750 tool, they stop pretty good. At least the first time...
A cable operated parking brake isn't going to be any better. Isn't one of the midsize MoPar rears a near bolt in for the late 40s cars
You are going to have a problem with that, the cylinders are not going to like being pressurized. There is a good reason for the parking brake to be fully mechanically actuated even on all new computerized cars, it's not good for the pads to be in contact with the brake surface for extended amounts of time, as in during parking, warpage can occur on disc brakes. Wheel chocks may comply with the rule, line locks work like tinman said. What would they have used in the day?
He has drum brakes. Most cars with disc rear brakes use the service brake pads as the parking brake utilizing a screw and nut or a ball and ramp mechanism. The rotors do not warp when parked
Most of your newer vehicles (cars and light trucks) use what the industry calls a "top hat" rotor. It has a small drum inside the area where it meets up with the hub flange and has a small "park brake" band inside that is actuated by means of a cable like they have been for years while still having a rotor for disc service brake stopping. I have rigged up a home made "line lock" out of a 1/2" gas line ball valve with some br*** fittings hooked in line with the front brakes on a toy I had. 77 Monza on top of a 65 Chevy truck frame shortened 18" with 18" stilts for the car to sit on. Yeah, yeah I know; redneck off roader...sure was fun tho and the brakes would hold it on any hill as long as the front tires didn't start to slide. Not to sure I would try that on anything that was going to see highway time...
Just leave it in gear when it's parked...1st or reverse works pretty well. Aircraft use a "line lock" type parking brake and they tend to leak down as they cool off or sit for long periods of time and folks come back and find their plans have rolled into something. Seen it happen many times with some very expensive consequences. That's why most smart folks use wheel chocks when they park their planes.
you live in seattle and you want "parking brake" option other than cable? there is no other way to have one if you spend any time driving the hills because having a backup system is a really great thought if you have ever had brake failure.
My suggestion could be deemed to be O/T [ a la "drifting" or "rally cars" ] make a hydraulic hand brake on the rear circuit only [ dual master cyl ] obviously you'll need a master cylinder hooked up to a hand brake lever, use a master cylinder without a reservoir , and plumb it "inline" so the rear brake line goes into where the reservoir goes and out the normal brake line fitting. When the hand brake is not in use, [and the piston is pushed back ] the cylinder is open for normal foot brake operation. When the handbrake is being used, the piston blocks off the reservoir inlet so the foot brake is still sealed [ the foot brake works the front only with handbrake in use ] Rally cars have been using this for years [ called "fly-off" handbrake ] to help set the car sideways for corner entry.
if you do use one of those to lock the brakes.. remember don't stab the pedal as hard as ya can to lock the rear brakes.. just enough foot preasure to keep it from rolling.. then your rear wheel cylinders will be happy..
Get 2 bricks. You can paint them if you want. A lot cheaper than a line lock and just as useful in an emergency.
adapt the rear backing plates by using parts from a more modern car with the same shoe diameter open a hole for the cable and or weld a piece from a backing plate.for that matter you could change the whole backing plate.
Speedway sells a pinion disc type park brake...http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pinion-Mounted-9-Ford-Emergency-Brake,44784.html
My first car was a '47 Dodge. The "E-Brake" is a mechanically operated drum on the transmision end of the drive-line. There is no cylinder or fluid involved. It does not use the rear brakes. As has been stated, your best option may be a mechanically operated disk in the same location.
If you park your car with your parking brake on for any extended amount of time, long enough for rust and pull the drums you would see an accelerated area of rust where the pad made contact to the surface, if you do that to the fronts you will feel it in your braking as you scuff out that spot, we drive some of these so infrequently that you may end up with quite a lumpy ride after a while. I would try to keep the parkers off the service brakes for this reason.
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