Technical Little tips and tricks for garage hobbyists.

I have a mini mill and when I first got it I decided that I needed to check the tram.

Rather than take a dial indicator and putting it on the rises on the table then moving and checking on each rise I figured there had to be a simpler way.

Went to the scrap pile and grabbed an old brake rotor, took it to work and put it on the brake lathe and machined it. Now I knew it was perfectly flat and had uniform thickness all the way around it.

Now I just set up my dial indicator in the tram jig in the collet, set the rotor onto the table and run the indicator against it. I can swing a complete circle and read any variance anywhere on the table.

If I find any variance I just write it's amount and location directly on the rotor with a pencil where the dial indicator is showing it then I can adjust and take another reading in the same spot and see how I did, then I just spin the spindle by hand back around the the rotor and take new readings.

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"Here is a list of Classic cars from the The Classic Car Club of America. A Mustang will never be on it in our lifetime."

That's CCCA's opinion, and they are entitled to it. But it really only applies to their members.

 

Please, let's get back on topic.

 

Phillips Screw Trick
Dip the screwdriver tip in valve grinding compound (the stuff you use for hand lapping valves )
makes it grab wore out screws real nice
fabricator john
miss you dad

 

Great stuff! Thanks for all the tips!

 

well after I just posted a reply I thought of something i do. I have a white board on the wall of my shop that use to track oil changes, part numbers for oil/air filters, belts,hoses etc and frequently used torque values for all my cars. The older I get, the more frequently CRS kicks in and the more I need this dang white board.

 

CRS is one of the many symptoms of Old Timers Disease. A white board in the ship may help.

 

Nothing special but when building a project I'll tear the part # off the box then notate what it is on the back in marker. Throw all of the labels in a ziplock and keep it in the trunk or glovebox. Having those #'s saved will make it easier to track down parts down the road when CRS kicks in.. Or when you sell the project it will make it easier on the next guy.

 

I keep track of oil and filter changes, grease jobs, tire rotation, and any other work I do on each vehicle I own. This info is kept in the glove box of each vehicle in a check register book that can be gotten free at any bank. I also record when I get gas in the book. I even have a separate book that I record mileage and maintenance for my car trailer.

 

When we were building my son's '54 Conestoga I was working at CarQuest. Many Studebaker parts were still available but not in the computer but some were in the older books. A lot crossed with Ford, GM, & MOPAR. I made a list of parts used and likely to be needed and wrote the numbers down and put them in the glove box. We also carried parts we would not find like an extra starter & later an OD solenoid. We did find a new fuel pump in Tonopah, Nevada and it saved having to modify a Chrysler pump on the side of the road. I used some of my old CQ books yesterday to help a guy out.

 

No sex on a freshly painted hood....just sayin...

 

Were you alone?

 

any ideas on removing chrome plating

 

Any ideas on removing sex tracks?

 

That is why flames were invented.

 

flames to cover up the flames....no i was not alone...me , myself and Irene...ha ha ha....ahh cars and the ladies....mmmm...new thread idea..

 

Why?

 

I've searched and asked for a tip on how to deal with air tools with whip hoses attached, most recently post #1332 on this thread. Finally took the bull by the horns and came up with this:


They fit under the top edge of my metal fab table. Orignally, I was going to put a trough at the bottom to collect the hoses. But, as I was putting it together, I found that the hoses would stay put by simply looping them behind their own tool.
An added benefit is that they will swivel out for access or fold flat against the side of the table.
This was all done with stuff I had around the shop, 1" PVC pipe, fittings and clamps. Only clued the 45* elbows to a short stub to the coupling at the end as I wasn't sure if this was the final design.
The couplings were modified to fit the individual tools but this was very minor. I did shorten them, but I believe there are also shorter ones available from some suppliers.

 

I have a white board for the truck project.
It helps me focus on the next step.

 

I just discovered this trick for pouring paint out of the can. Works slick.

 

GearheadsQCE........Nicely done. My original suggestion about putting large cans in a drawer to handle the tool and hose assy was for the smaller coiled hoses.





Never thought about someone having full size hoses on each tool. My suggestion with larger hose is for someone to make a bracket with holes in it that would attach to the rear of the work table or tool box. The hose would then just dangle down behind the box and out of sight. It could actually hang down inside the rear of a toolbox behind the drawers if there is sufficient room.

 

I modified this to lift my motor without scratching the purdy valve covers, also works as a body picker

 

That gives me an idea for an o/t chevelle body lift!

 

It was a little off balance, but with minimum effort my 12 year old grandson (my apprentice) was able to help.

 

@nochop Thanks for that idea, both body and engine lift. I am going to copy your engine lift, wish I would have thought of that

 

I also am going to copy this.... Thank You....

LynnW

 

Dang….I should have patented it….

 

I won't copy it just rely heavily on your design so if you do patent it I'll be OK.

 

Here is one that I made a while back that is similar. They work really well............

 

Here is how I do it...........