Technical Little tips and tricks for garage hobbyists.

so not really car related then, thanks

 

BLO only thing I finish wood rifle stocks with . Once a day for week , once a week for a month , once a month for a year , it will be beautiful and tough with this formula .

 

Linseed oil was used to finish the surface of cricket bats, before we colonials used them to win cricket matches against the English.

Cheers,
Harv

 

@Bones, do you have a front shot of your D-9? Is the blade hydraulic or is it a cable rig?

 

I think some guys use boiled linseed oil to protect bare sheetmetal or patinaed paint jobs.

 

Not sure why you are getting "pop ups". When I click on it, I simply scroll down just a little and there is the demonstration video clip showing how they work. Takes about 5 seconds.

 

@ekimneirbo I didn't get pop ups, but the site is 'busy'.
There are so many variations on the original zip tie that a whole thread could cover tips and tricks on them alone!
I tried to find a single source for variations, but even that seems to be tough. This one shows quite a few.
https://www.nylon-cabletie.com/nylon-cable-tie
It seems to be AI written or a quick translation, but at least it has a collection of pictures of various styles.
While many consider them to be a cheap ugly solution, they are widely used and can be a lightweight, best use tool for many things.

 

@Fabber McGee and @RodStRace maybe this will clarify it better. It's basically a straight zip tie with a T at the top. You put the T in a hole and then it sticks out so you can slide another component onto the zip tie. Then you take a small round disc and slide it onto the zip tie and push it up the zip tie till it stops. Cut off the excess zip tie thats protruding out and you are done. Good for holding things like rubber against metal, like the rubber pieces on some inner fenders. Quick and easy to do.

Go to Amazon and look for the item mentioned below.

145Pcs Nylon Universal Cable Tie Buckle for Car, Automotive Zipper Clips, Heavy Duty Plastic Rivet Zip Ties, Zippered Trim Clip Auto Parts, Multifunctional Ziptie Bumper Retainer Fender Liner Fastener
Brand: DUMPILL

 

I 'got it', just wanted to expand on it.
Stuff like the tags built in, the ones that have a tab with double sided tape and of course the ones that have a tab to release the lock are great for running wiring when building a harness.

 

I am at the ranch as we speak, I will get a front pic, while I’m here! There has been some brush grow up since I took that pic! lol
It is a cable rig, 1959 model, so I guess it fits here , according to the date requirements! lol



Bones

 

Cable rig may explain the winch on the rear. Two guys used old D9s here at different times to rough in our road & pull the house mover's truck up the hill. One had the cable just for raising the blade and down pressure was gravity. The other had down pressure applied by a second cable. The both gad hand crank gas pony motors that started the diesel. In the middle of the job we had to replace the cable in the first one and also knocked a track off. That was a bitch to get back on on site with one old guy and one young guy. I was the young guy back then.

 

don't think i've seen any rigs that had down pressure by cable!

 

The Double drum# 29 cable unit on the back, is just that, two high speed winches. One for the front blade, one for the rear scraper! The front blade needs eight pulleys to get the blade off the ground! I assure you guys you do not need down pressure on that 14 foot blade! When we hauled it , some 80 miles to the ranch, we had to take the blade and push arms off! It was all my one ton wanted hauling the two arms and all my friends two ton winch truck wanted hauling the blade! We never needed to “ push” the blade into the ground, but did have to hold it up ! The pictures really don’t do justice to this monster!





Bones

 

Used them stringin big pipe in the ground . Some had a huge weight hanging on one and a side winch one the other side to lower pipe into the ditch . I was on a job where a fool lost one on frozen ground . Layed it on its side , tossed him onto the track , spit his head open . He was ok when he returned from his week suspension .

 

I watch Diesel Creek, so I have a inkling of the weights and size involved!
Much bigger than Squatch253's stuff, although the rock crusher isn't a toy.

 

My scatter-brain just had a memory.
I've seen postings about line wrenches and their issues.
What to do when on the road, and your tool chest is home.
An Old buddy of mine, one day, handed me a little 6 or 8 inch pipe wrench.
He said "This Works". He was correct,
Don't leave home without it.

 

For sure the second one with down pressure was a modification. I don't know why. The friend who owned it brought it over the Sierras from the Sacramento Valley. It had obviously never seen a rock. The original paint underneath look new. Somewhere I have a picture of my JD 420C sitting crosswise to the 14' D9 blade. The 420 has a 6.5' Blade and is 11' in length. It is a good size for a handy homestead dozer. I used to haul it all over on the bed of my 1940 International Model D with a 16' flatbed.

 

Not sure if this tip has been suggested before so feel free to delete if it has. When fitting/torquing the wheel/lug nuts on your expensive wheels I apply insulation tape to the outside of the socket in such a manner that it also covers the front face of the socket adjacent to the hexagon. No more socket rash on your wheels or lug nut washers.

 

step 1 and 4

Hello,

When we started our parts bins in our dad’s old fishing boxes, we had limited space for the little nuts and bolts. Washers were a small item, as well as lock washers when needed. So, they all needed to be close by. We used to bring the fishing box over and open it up near where we were working. At the time it was handy, but took up valuable space.

So, as the new parts began their turn to get assembled, access to the small nuts and bolts were necessary to fit the needs. Obviously not all are the same sizes. But in our fishing tackle box. We had limited divided spaces for everything.

We began to use our mom’s cardboard egg cartons as a receptacle for different sizes of nuts and bolts and the carton could be snapped closed for the next days work without having to scrounge around in the parts bins. Just open the egg carton and the necessary parts are there.

But, those cardboard egg cartons had a shelf life and sometimes they did wear out and break open. Spilling all of the little parts. Not good.

Now, the companies are using sturdy, but light weight plastic egg cartons for the eggs. There are still paper cartons, but these have double uses. Note the little egg openings from 12 to 24 when opened. When one set of 12 parts in the outer set of holes is used, the two sides can be flipped over to seal the center holes like a flip lid.

step 3 and 4

Jnaki

Step three, flip one side over to lock items in place.

Step 4 flip the top smooth lid over to lock everything in place. If you have three or more clear egg cartons, they can be stacked but, in a square, cross pattern to be more secure.

These light weight plastic cartons can be carried anywhere in the shop and placed on a counter. The clear sides makes identifying easier than the paper cartons. If any of the original real eggs cracked and there was some spillage, make sure you wash out the holes and spray with 90 % alcohol. YRMV

Note:

When these clear plastic egg cartons are opened, they also make good receptacles for water color paints or oil paints for toddler paint activities. They are pretty easy to clean and the snap lid stays shut when placed on a flat counter. But, for little construction parts or car parts in a repair or rebuild, they allow capture of the parts without having to chase them all over the counter.

 

Muffin tins from the thrift store are good for various project bins, too. The cheaper one-use aluminum ones if you have those around will work also.
I saw a yoga mat in the thrift store the other day. They make a nice bench top pad for disassembling carbs or other small, fragile stuff. The texture tends to keep stuff where you put it.
I've got a gun cleaning mat for this too. The better ones are resistant to chemicals.

I haven't found a good tray for various assembly stuff that holds both the liquid and a dedicated brush, but I do have anti-seize, oil, loc-tite, grease and carb and brake cleaner among other sprays and cans all on a cart.

I try to keep all the Personal Protection Equipment in one handy place, too.

 

I'd recommend looking at some of the stainless steel stuff from restaurants. You can get some nice rectangular pans often with lids pretty cheaply. Many years ago I got an old SS countertop about 4' long. It had a backsplash and ends, and a lip on the front edge. I removed the legs and fastened it on top of a workbench. I can put large greasy oily dirty things like transmissions and engine blocks on it and all the residue stays contained for easy clean up when done. It still works fine for non-greasy work too, but its so easy to clean the mess when done. Sometimes it takes a while to find one for a good price, but they do come along . Here is a kinda messy picture of it that I took when making the engine stand mount.

Later I added this removable leg to give additional support for when I wanted to leave a motor hanging for an extended period of time........like waiting for parts to come back from the machine shop.

 

From the web,,,

 

For a homemade brake spring tool have a look at this. I knew Mart on here made one a while back but this looks quite easy to make.

 

Are you talking about the pliers type thing to install the return springs? That's the only tool I can find in that section of the book. They are available cheaply around the traps, probably not worth making.

 

That's what I was talking about

 

Mentioned cable releases on another thread; a bicycle shop is a good source of cables for hot rods; strong, flexible, and very adaptable. I've used them for trunk & hood release, throttle, seat adjusters, etc.

 

In the early 90s I built this forklift/loader for a helping hand around here on the homestead out of old pickup parts. I wanted a good view of the forks or bucket and the whole area front and back so I put the seat on the side. That made throttle linkage pretty complicated.



What I did was get a couple long pieces of 3/8 tubing at NAPA with inverted flare fittings on the ends, like brake tubing and tied them together with an inverted flare coupling. Then slipped a piece of 1/4 inch nylon air brake tube inside that and a cable, maybe 3/32 or 1/8 inside the air brake tube.
With that done I was able to bend the whole works to fit any place I wanted to go. To locate the housing (3/8 tube) at the pedal end I tacked a nut that fit the threads on the tubing nut to pedal bracket I built and the engine end is clamped over the outside of the steel tube to make it adjustable. I figured the cable would eventually wear through the nylon tubing in one of the bends, but in over 30 years I haven't had one problem with the throttle cable.
With this set up, a guy could open his trunk from the front bumper, or actuate any damned thing he can dream up from any distance.
Yellow color of the picture was from the sun filtering through forest fire smoke. I had just made the brackets to hang that telescoping mast on there and built the man basket so I could work on second story siding on my house. Around 2005. Used a 12v hydraulic pump from a pickup snow plow to raise the fork mast so I could tell it up or down from the basket without the engine running.

 

Oh, by the way, although my motor forker is not a hot rod, it is sort of HAMB friendly. I started with a give away 1961 International Travel-all 4 wheel drive with no engine.

 

From the Web,,,

 

#2579 : I'd bet Jeff Foxworthy & Larry The Cable Guy would just LOVE this one!!! LOL!!!