Hot Rods Location of C.E. rear spring kit in 36 Ford

Hello. I am in the process of installing a C.E. rear spring kit in my 36. The body is off the frame and the frame is straight and square (checked on a frame table). I followed the instructions that came with the C.E. kit for locating the forward most rear spring perches (just clamped in place right now). The front and rear axle are nice and square but when I measure the wheelbase from the kingpin center to the center of the centering bolt in the rear leaf springs, I come up with 113" and change. The advertised wheelbase for a 36 is 112". The center of the axle is right above the axle snubber holes and with no weight on the axle, the rear shackles are vertical to the ground. Since the springs are relatively flat, I don't think the wheelbase will change allot under the full weight, but I may be wrong. I am inclined to leave it as is because I installed a C.E. rear spring kit in a 37 ford a long time ago, taking care to follow the instructions, and the wheel was too far forward by 1" when we put the rest of the car together. This was cured by offsetting the locating holes in the lowering blocks. However, I would prefer to not do that if I don't have to.
Can someone share their experience with positioning a C.E. rear parallel spring axle kit using the measurements in the C.E. instructions?
Thanks in advance

 

Wondering the same on my 36, the rear wheels look forward to me in the stock position so CE probably accounts for this. I’m setting up the Posies kit and it has two sets of holes in the spring pad.

 

I used that kit on my 37 Fordor. I don’t know if there is an easy way to get it right without the body on the frame and at the desired ride height. From my experience, no two wheel wells are identical side to side; and after the car is driven awhile the CE springs are notorious for flattening out and even reversing their arch upward which will also change the height or require removal of your lowering blocks. Speedway sells a variety of lowering blocks, some that are adjustable to help get the wheelbase identical on each side. I installed my kit the best I could by the instructions. Over the first year of driving I had to adjust my lowering blocks several times chasing ride height and lead several times. Luckily you can’t see both sides of the car at the same time, but I did manage to get the wheels centered in the wells pretty good + - a half inch or so.