Just installed a Lokar black nostalgic s**** gas pedal in the '36. Running a Holley on a sbf with Lokar throttle cable hardware. Instructions don't say anything about pedal height. Is pedal height determined at WOT with the gas pedal making contact with a stop (in my case the floor) at the same moment the carb is at WOT? This pedal mounts on the firewall with a mid pivot point. How are you suppose to set the pedal travel distance?
I just did one today. Yes you want to basically mock everything up. You want to mock up the pedal to where it should be in relation to the other pedals, you can move it up and down a bit but realistically it has only about a 2" by 2" area of real compatibility. You are then going to notice where the sleeve should penetrate the fire wall. Give a bit of extra thought to this because a hole once drilled wrong doth ****eth. For this reason you should be more or less placement mocking up, and marking some possible holes on perhaps some blue tape. Once you think you have a fairly nice location on both sides of the firewall actuate the pedal, see what type of range you have, you need about 2 1/2 to 3 " of play off the fire wall to get WOT. To check WOT on your carb you may hook up your cabling to the carb end, mark the cable drawn tight with the carb at stop, open it up to WOT, mark the cable again, slip the cable out and measure the distance between marks. This is the required play needed in the pedal from top of ***embly to firewall face.Many times you will after all mock up trim the shaft that penetrates the firewall to provide unin***bered travel at the pedal. A word of advice is, don't cut anything until you have walked through the whole mock up in regards to cabling or sheathing, this is a mock up and trim type of thing, always leave a bit extra on the cable ends, you can always trim them absolutely last. Have fun. You set the pedal height by adjusting the tapped sleeve that has the cabling running through it. Hold your carb open to WOT, have someone push the pedal to the floor, make sure there is no slack in the cable, tighten the cable sleeve. Let her go, how's the pedal look? If the return springs are set up right she should be just right.
Also remember to compensate if you don't have carpet and pad and intend to install them later. Had a wood block duct taped to the floor for a few months on one car.
The pedal arm and cable arm disconnect with a splined allen head bolt. Once apart you can make the angle between the two whatever you like using the splines. Just found this; http://www.lokar.com/instruction-sheets.html Hope this helps.
Thanks for the input. Got the gas pedal dialed in. The" trim to fit instructions" for cutting the cable suggest: using linesmen pliars, or side cutters, or hack saw blade with 32 tpi. Ended up tape-ing the cable and cutting the line with a cut-off wheel. Lokar's suggestions yielded poor results. My neighbor who is an aircraft mechanic suggested the cut off wheel and taping the cable first to keep it from splaying.
You may also need to space the mounting bracket off the fire wall to get a comfortable travel/angle for your foot, just an option...
Thought had crossed my mind. Lokar offer's a spacer for $23.00. We'll see. I could make one from steel stock for nothing but invested time and maybe worn drill bits. I've never driven this car in the makings. Launch time is this month.
I put a fishing weight crimped on the cable end so I do not do surgery on my fingers all of the time with that stinking cable.
Yeah. I know what ya mean,Gettin impailed by the splayed braided lines is no fun. Smarts! Fishing weight idea is a good one. Thanks
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