This temp sender is off a 41 Ford flathead that came with my 41 Ford Pickup. Looks like its a switch more than a temp sender. What do you think? Anyone recognize this thing? Thanks, Mike
it looks like the senders C&G early ford parts sell. they have different senders which only supply a dummy light.
OK, I've found the part number for C&G (8A-10990) but there's no description. Here's what I'm trying to solve: I'd like to run an electric fan that is thermostatically controlled. I'm wondering if this thing could work for this purpose. Thanks, Mike
only if you use it to switch a relay on and off, otherwise,i don't think it would handle the amp load.
[ QUOTE ] I'd like to run an electric fan that is thermostatically controlled. I'm wondering if this thing could work for this purpose. [/ QUOTE ] Yes if you don't want your fan to come on until you're overheated. The idiot light means you're in trouble. Go to a wrecking yard and snag the fan switch out of a neon or similar MOPAR (he says toungue in cheak) product. They switch the fan at 180-190 and look pretty similar to what you've got there.
I swapped someonr for a fan kit, came with miscellaneous mounting hardware and an in-line sensor deal that slid into the fins between the radiator tubes. Connects to a relay in the harness. That is the kind of deal I think is best, and I am going to use gauges in the heads. May be a trial and error to find the best spot to locate it but it should be somewhere in the center as the radiator is the only place the coolant isn't separate.
That sender is for a temp guage. It is not just a switch. It varies the resistance to make the guage work. there should be two of them, one in each head, one with two terminals, one with one terminal. They both have to be hooked up to work properly.
Thanks to Enjenjo, who was the first to know what that is. I've always used a Chevrolet Cavalier fan sender to trigger a relay for an electric fan, but as nearly everything is using an electric fan these days, you could use anything. Just be sure the fan is not triggered by the computer and the sender you are grabbing is a temp sender for the computer. That's why I use early Cavalier senders, I know what they do. Oh, BTW, please do not think that your engine should run at 180º or lower. A properly running engine should run 190-195º for best performance and longevity. Cosmo
[ QUOTE ] That sender is for a temp guage. It is not just a switch. It varies the resistance to make the guage work. there should be two of them, one in each head, one with two terminals, one with one terminal. They both have to be hooked up to work properly. [/ QUOTE ] Ding, Ding! You win. This was not a test, but you've described my setup exactly. The passenger side head has a single lead temp sender, and the driver's side has this. So it can't be used for a switch, that's good to know! Thanks for the help. Now I can go and buy a separate temp switch. Mike
Here's the Borg Warner part number for the sensor switch that has the right threads for a flathead and comes on at about 190 degrees. TSF664. Speedway has the right relay for $9.95 pigpen Works good; lasts a long time. (Wishful thinking)
If you want to eliminate one sender, and use the other hole for a switch to control the fan, get a sender for a six cylinder car, same year, and put the switch in the other head.
If you run a guage in one side and not the other, and the one with no gauge gets hot. Which can happen if a water pump goes bad. You can ruin the engine before you know it. Voice of experense here, head gasket blew on right head and guage was in left.
The thing to know about flattie cooling systems is that the engine does NOT pass water from one side to the other. Ford designed the cooling system as if each side of the engine were a separate entity. Sorta like two four cylinders that happen to share a radiator. That's the why behind the temp sensor being the way it is. As well as the whole of the system, with two of everything. Cosmo
It's like CERTS, you're BOTH right. As I recall, one is a sender, one is a switch. One gives you a reading (admittedly off one head), and ,if things get REAL hot (at the other head), the temp switch will ground out the gauge and peg the needle (OUCH!) Got a diagram and explanation from an old MOTORS, but I can't scan it. Could expand on that if anyone needs it.