I need to lower my 49 Buick in the back. To do this I need a shock with loops at both ends, that measures 11" compressed, and 19" or more extended. The longer it can be extended the easier it will be to remove my rear tires. But 19" is the minimum I can live with. I looked at the Monroe chart and the closest I can find is a 32293. It measures 11.97" compressed, 19.66" extended. That doesn't allow me to lower the car, as that is what I have on it now. The measurement is center to center of the loops.
how much fabrication would it take to move the lower mount down an inch? (assuming it would not then be lower than the wheel rim, to avoid scrub line issues)
https://www.monroe.com/content/dam/...oe-mounting-length-specifications-english.pdf https://www.kyb.com/resources/technical-information/dimensions/
As you can see I have no room to move the shock mounting points. I am right at the scrub radius, the photo angle makes it look worse.
hmmm.... maybe a few more pictures from different angles, so we can see the whole picture? wonder if you could move the top inboard? can't really tell from where we can see it
How often are you pulling the rear wheels off? really too much trouble just to drop the damper off every time? I feel like you could be causing yourself a whole lot of work for a fairly limited situation?
You just flat**** are not going to get that much extension with a shock that that has 10 inches of travel. Look at front shocks For 60 something to 80 something Chevy C 10 Compressed they are 9.95 and extended they are 15.01 and you have to use two jacks and take the shock loose at the bottom loose at the bottom to get the tire off just as guys had to do back in the day. It helps if you deflate the tire when putting it on or taking it off too, Been there, done that.
Try Rock Auto for a 1960 VW front shock. The shock has a steel liner inside the rubber bung that can be drilled out and will leave a nice 5/8" hole in the bung. Worked for me.
I don't think a VW front shock would have enough dampening for the back of my 49 Buick, the weight is way different. Here are some more pictures of the installation, I don't see how I can easily move the mounting points.
Just move the lower mount up and keep the current shock. Trim off the mount and get a little more scrub room.
Like stated above, you aren't going to be able to find a shock with that much travel. So sit the car on the bump stop, put the shock mounts just far enough apart so the shock doesn't bottom out and plan on removing the shock to get the tire off. It's going to be a game of give and take.
Yea none of the shocks that size have enough travel. I think the problem is mine are straight up, if the shocks were angled 20 to 25 degrees the rear end would have more travel due to the angle.
How are you jacking the car? I jack it up on the frame to let the rear axle drop far enough to remove the tire.
The rear axle would have less vertical travel if the shocks were mounted at an angle less than 90 degrees, so your setup is optimized now. The rear coil spring helpers are a bit concerning, though... Is the lack of a removable fender (quarter panel) skirt the biggest hinderance to removing the rear wheel/tire currently?
You need to redo the shock mounts. Vertical like that they are less than optimal. I would look at mounting them inboard of the coils with a bit of angle
Your above statement about the shock angle is wrong. If the shock was angled it would move less then the wheel would move. The way I have it now with the shocks vertical the shock moves about the same up and down as the wheel. I do have removable fender skirts, but still have to let the air out of the tire or unhook the shock to let the rear end drop to get enough room to remove the tire.
One of my last '55 Chevy's I had rolled the wheel well openings andmoved the springs and shocks inboard so I could stuff the most tire in the wheel well. I had to take the shock loose at the bottom to let the rear end hang down far enough to remove the tire. I looked at it as the penalty I had to pay to get the look I wanted.
Looks like you could cut the upper mount off, drill a hole, and use a stud type top mount. Might gain you an inch or so in length, if that helps any?
Add a couple ears to the bottom mount so the shock is turned 90 degrees, then move the top mount back also turning it 90 degrees. With the shock angling back and proper locating, you should be able to get it within your parameters.
He's asking for the impossible! You cannot get 8"+ travel from a 11" fully compressed shock [when you deduct the eyes from the dimensions] It would require a longer shock that is laid over , rotating the shocks 90° and welding "double shear" tabs is the correct/best way [as you suggested] another method to "fudge this" is to cut off the top brackets and drill a hole through the frame for an upper stud mount [this might gain 3/4"] But if fabrication is needed..............do it properly @BJR Use a KYB #343164 shock This is 12.91" compressed and 21.57" extended. Mount the upper eye 6.76" offset from perpendicular and it will net 11" compressed and 20.48" extended The eyes are 10mm x 41mm upper and lower
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