Looking for advice with Imron (actually Durethane)

Greetings,
Looks like a lot of wisdom on the site, hoping to tap some.

I've got a gallon of PPG Durethane in bright red (not sure of the actual color code offhand). It's been on the shelf for 20 years, waiting for a car that I actually wanted to paint red. I found one, a 1985 C30 flatbed, with a scissor lift, 350sbc crate motor with factory headers (albeit it fairly short runners), and an SM465 4spd. It moves pretty good for a 7200lbs curb weight truck.

Back to the paint... It looks great, smooth, no sign of clumping. The problem is the label calls for a 1:1 base/activator ratio, which is a lot of catalyst compared to most 4:1 single stage polyurethanes sold nowadays. Does anyone here have any experience with Durethane--or Imron, which I ***ume was similar chemistry back in those days? I'm also looking for recommendations on a brand of activator that is more likely to be compatible, if anyone has a recommendation there as well.

Thank you in advance for any advice!

 

Just a word of warning...this site is for traditional style hot rods prior to 1965, discussions about anything newer usually get deleted. If you edit your post to just say "I found one." and delete the info about the truck it will be better received.

 

I would talk to a PPG supplier to see what works. You have urethane. Most automotive paints you see today are polyurethane. I think that might be the difference. Urethane might still be used in industrial applications.

 

DU 5 fast or medium temp.
DU6 slow or high temp.

Have you checked with a local PPG supplier ?

Iirc, for some reason I think DCX61 may have been also compatible. I'll have to see if I can find some of my old P-Sheets.

 

Don’t spray it without a full suit and air. One of the best paints in world but has specific needs when you spray it!

 

If i recall, Imron uses specific catalyst/reducer that are different than urethanes like DCC.
PPG had different formulas back then, not sure if any of the current stuff will be compatible.
I'd try to find a PPG rep that has been around awhile.

 

If you cross reference some of the similar type items from back then. DU/DCC/DCU. You'll see that the use of DU5/6, DCX 8/9/61,DFX11. Were used somewhat interchangeably. With an adjustment of mixing ratios. It'll really just come down to what you can still find available & viable.

I have about a gallon of DU1000 & DU6 still left. But, also at about 20yrs old. I don't know if I'd actually trust it. To spray it on a vehicle . . .

 

Don’t be surprised if the paint is seedy, basically the color pigments stick together and look like you have a big dust problem in your paint booth. No amount of shaking stirring or straining will remove then from the paint.

 

The cheapest automotive-quality paints available today are generally budget-friendly single-stage acrylic urethane kits or factory-pack basecoats, often priced under $100-$110 per gallon. Top affordable brands include Speedo Coat (SMR), Starfire, Nason, and Omni, which offer durable finishes for significantly less than premium lines. Google info Twenty-year-old Imron paint (a polyurethane/2K paint) is likely unusable, as manufacturers generally specify a 1- to 5-year shelf life for unopened, factory-sealed cans. While oil-based paints can last 10–15 years, high-performance, catalyzed polyurethane, especially the hardener, degrades significantly over two decades. Google info.