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Looking for answers for hard to find straight chevy questions (esp blue flame/mcgurk)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cleetus77, Mar 16, 2012.

  1. cleetus77
    Joined: Nov 27, 2011
    Posts: 11

    cleetus77
    Member
    from austin, tx

    Howdy!
    So my dad and I are working on my first rod...I've been in love with the old school rods for a while now and was blown away by the Hot Rod Revolution show that was here in Austin last December. My hats off to you guys--I've been to dozens of car shows over the years but have never seen anything like that before. I left with my mind blown and some big ideas as far as the direction I'm wanting to go with my 53 truck. The original engine needed a rebuilt and we were able to pick up a a couple of late 50's 235's to build from. I want to work to build it up as someone would have in the late 50's and am strongly wanting to go the Blue Flame direction--ideally a hopped up blue flame. Has anyone here tried to build one like a McGurk? I like the idea of trying to build it in a "proven" way, but at the same time probably can't afford an engine built with a ton of custom made parts. Any advice from someone who's been down this road?

    This is what I've been using to help guide the way. http://www.earlycorvettes.com/linda/1953vin276/Mcgurk/McGurk001.pdf

    Other similar questions--In here he mentions it's best to do the buildup on a 261. I already have a reworked head and a turned crank--should I cut my losses and go straight to a 261 or, as he also recommends, boring out the 235 to 3 11/16", raising the displacement to 252 ci? Can someone help me with that math? In more modern terms, what is 3 11/16th over? 20 over? 40? 60??
    Help please!

    Thanks guys!
     
  2. I'll help a little bit.

    the stock bore according to my fast google search os 3 9/16. Mc Gurk recommends a 3 11/16 bore. That is 2/16 dofference ot a 1/8" difference.

    To change your number to a decimal you divide the top number by the bottom number. You come up with .125. So you will need to bore it .125".

    Get pistons before you go to the machinist. You will probably have to have them made.

    Now as far as a blue flame, I had one it was in the only car I ever owned that I didn't molest. Farily snappy for a GM inline in stock form. I would take another if I had a light enough body to put it in.
     
  3. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,977

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Keep in mind that these engines were new when that manual was written. After fifty plus years of internal corrosion, I'd be inclined to bore it .060 and live with 244 cubic inches. I don't consider it worth possibly ruining your block over a matter of eight more cubes.
     
  4. Joe Roseberry
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 28

    Joe Roseberry
    Member

    I'm having way to much fun with my 261 so I would say go for it. Your crank and head will fit as will all of rest of the 235 stuff. The 235 head will give you a bit more compression as the combustion chamber is smaller than the 261. The 261 rods are stronger. Do put a full flow filter on it and remember "there aint no substitute for cubic inches". Good luck, Joe
     
  5. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,756

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Use those fifties articles as a guide but bear in mind some things have changed. Parts that were available then, are no longer available in many cases, but new parts have taken their place. For example good luck finding a Corvette dual exhaust manifold but there are brand new cast iron headers that are as good or better.

    Then there are parts that are better than anything available back then like camshafts, pistons and rings. Modern electronic ignition is way better than anything available back then.

    If you have invested in the 235 parts I suggest you use them. A 261 is not that much better. In this case max performance is not the goal or you would be starting with a 350 V8. The goal is to have some fun, and get some fairly snappy performance without shooting the whole bankroll.

    You might want to look at the Inliners International site and see if anyone has done a similar build lately. See what parts are available today to get decent performance without breaking the bank. The secret is the right combination of parts put together and tuned right. By this time someone should have the formula down pat.
     
  6. Sounds like your on the right track regardless of the direction.....
     

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