Technical Looking for something kinda like a Cleco, but uses flat thin metal.

I can’t recall what the name of those things are. Instead of a round piece setup, they used thin flat stock. In between the pieces to weld.
Thanks.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/butt-...JYfGSqPMXnxQk-let1KSqcDZ95BGcxD0aAvuNEALw_wcB

 

HF has them, same deal as Eastwood, but less money.

 

Butt Weld Clamps? Ok for MIG. Too Much gap for TIG

 

Thanks all, just what I was looking for!

 

I highly DO NOT recommend them for anything. YMMV

 

Why not? I have a pin hole in a roof. Plan is to use a hole saw, the use a larger hole saw on sheet metal, turn it down to fit the first hole. I just need 3 probably to get an even surface for some tack welds.
I hate welding sheet metal corners and making “square” patches.

 

I use those occasionally but prefer rare earth magnets. The problem witth these is that if you make your patch fit tight enough, when you tack the patch the weld shrinks and they are hard to get out. Plus, they are made for straight cuts, so a circular cut would require a larger gap. Use magnets.

 

I planned to open them wide, and grind them narrower, last time I tried magnets welding a patch, I had to be far away from them, really messed with the wire welder.
No clue what type of magnets I have, but will look into finding rare earth ones.
Thanks.

 

These work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Pe...ound+25+mm+with+eye+bolt,aps,145&sr=8-10&th=1

 

Just use the magnetic to hold it in place until you get 1 or 2 tacks. You do have to be an inch or so away from the magnets. How big is your patch?

 

I don’t know yet until I drop the headliner. Hoping for 1.5 inches or so.

 

I'll second this. ^ Bought the Eastwood version long ago, used them once, and never again.

In a perfect world with no expansion and shrinkage, they would be great, but things move, sometimes access to both sides is neither simple nor easy, they are a bit finicky to set up...as suggested, a strong magnet (those 90* angle holder magnets are fine) would be easier in just about every way.

 

@rockable got it.
Too big a gap, only work decent on completely flat metal even worse on a curve cut etc.
use the weakest magnets you can find for small patches. I like refrigerator magnets.
Start the weld on solid metal and pull to the patch.

 

Yes, if the patch is that small, small ceramic craft magnets, about 1/2" diameter work well.

 

Hoping the patch is that small, but you probably know about rust on the other side of what you can see.
Thanks again for the advice.

 

I also found them very hard to get out and will not use them again.

 

If your patch is not heavy, I use masking tape !!!

 

I do this occasionally, as well.

 

Totally agree with this. Never more than a 45 deg angle.
Another trick I use for small plugs like this I'll often start with a strip of metal slightly wider than the hole and scribe the shape on it.
Cut it out leaving a small tab which can be bent up to make a handle to hold onto while I do the first tack or 2 then trim it off.

 

One more trick.
Drill a pinhole out with like a 1/2" drill. Then stick a carbide burr in there and spin it up.
It will naturally go to any weak metal in the area and it is easy to tell when your into good steel.

 

But tough to make a perfect circle with a die grinder. I’ll use a hole saw (after I drop the headliner) and make a hole. Then an adapter in the next larger hole saw I have for an 1/8th bit, be a quick burp to fill the 1/8th hole in the new piece.
I have to see what up on the underside before doing anything.

 

That's what SHE didn't say.... I'll see myself out...

 

Badaboom!

 

No advantage to making a perfect circle but if that is your preference go for it.

 

got a pic of what you are doing... am I understanding that you have a pin hole... and so you are going to cut a big round hole??? why not just weld the pin hole???

 

Round corners are key for keeping even heat on sheet patches. If possible drill your corners first using a step drill bit or sheet metal hole auger (I'll remember the bit name in a sec). Or use a hand nibbler and file to round the corners. After that the patch is just a trace and cut.
As said above magnets work much better than the clamps. Weird of caution though if you are running Mig. The arc will start to get screwy as you get closer to the magnets. So don't forget to pull them off after you tack.

 

Gotta drop the headliner anyways? Solder. Roofs are usually under a fuck ton (official measure BTW) of surface tension. Once welding occurs it can become a sink hole or get pregnant real fast. You could tin it well and solder it up, a lot less heat. It'll outlast yours and probably your grandkids lives.

 

I've seen some clamps in online videos that look like a threaded bolt that is split in half long ways and has thin L-shaped end pieces that slip under the two sheet metal panels. Then they tighten a nut on the threads and it grips the two panels and pulls them up together and levels them out. Not sure what they're called or where to get them, but the thin ends look much thinner than the popular butt weld clamps with the wing nut, so it should have a much thinner gap between the two panels.

I ground down my HF butt weld clamps to have a thinner gap between the panels. It helps a lot, but they don't last long.

 

the way I do it... total wrong... I use a knock out from a elec. box ,..magnet, gorilla
tape to the back side... then mig it with added coat hanger , grind smooth and done...