Recently swapped my A to run a 6x2 setup w/ progressive linkage from stromberg. Having difficulty figuring out how to get the throttle arm to the linkage. Ideally I'd be coming off the backbar to distribute the strain of pulling all those carbs open vs running straight to the primary on the driver side. However without changing the entire pedal, seems I need to go to the primary carb. My problem with that is the linkage arms there don't provide enough holes to tie into, they're all used up. Other maker arms have the same problem. I'm trying to avoid reinventing everything here. So any suggestions to send me down a new path would be helpful. Current problems/solutions: Fuel lines potentially in the way. Swap to banjos to free up the bank to run a rod to the primary somehow. Raise carbs up 2" w/ risers to get a better angle and figure out a way to hook up to back bar or primary on driver bank. Run a cable (which I'd really prefer not to) and some way of keeping it off the fuel lines (would currently rub) Say f it and go with direct linkage. Any tips would be appreciated thanks!
Use one of the vacant holes in the rear arm..... (in the red circle), as recommended by Stromberg in their info shown below. CHOOSING THE RIGHT LINKAGE FOR YOUR 6×2 So you’ve got yourself a cool 6×2 intake, either a new cast manifold like the Edelbrock X1 ram or the Offenhauser Pacemaker 3924 (low- line), or a U-fab or log-type intake, and you’ve stepped up for six 97s. What you need now is a quality, sturdy linkage that won’t flex when you stick your foot in it, and won’t swamp your beautiful carburetors with huge brackets or weird curved linkage rods going in all sorts of directions (yes, we’ve seen them too). Stromberg has 6×2 progressive and direct (non-progressive) linkages to fit pretty much everything out there. This means ready-to-fit kits for those popular intakes that are available brand new. And ‘Trim-to-Fit’ kits for everything else. The direct linkages come complete in one box. The progressive linkages are modular, so you can always get the right parts for your intake. Here’s how they work… 6×2 Direct Linkage. Let’s get the easy ones out of the way first. Right now, we offer three 6×2 Direct Linkage kits. Got the Edelbrock X1 ram 6×2 intake? You need our 9261-D 6×2 Direct Linkage Kit. It spaces the carburetors 4-7/8th inch in front of each other and 9-1/8th inch apart across the intake, and there is no offset between the two banks of carbs. This linkage is ready to go, comes almost completely assembled with the Back-bar levers pinned to the shaft and even though it bolts straight on, it still comes with full instructions, of course. Got the Offenhauser Pacesetter 3924 6×2 intake? You need our 9262-D 6×2 Direct Linkage Kit. This is a low-line intake compared with the X1 so it can give you a little more clearance for low hood applications. It spaces the carburetors 4-3/4 inch in front of each other and 6-1/2 inch apart across the intake, with the carbs on the US driver’s side 3/4 inch offset in front of the other bank. As before, this linkage is ready to go. Got something else? You need our 9260-D 6×2 Trim-to-Fit Direct Linkage Kit. It will work with intakes that space the carburetors up to 5-1/2 inch in front of each other, up to 9-1/8th inch apart across the intake and up to 1 inch of offset between the two banks of carbs. Believe us, that’s going to cover pretty much every production engine around. How difficult is the trimming? You’ll be drilling and maybe shortening one bracket and adjusting the lengths of the rods. And everything is explained in the Installation Guide included. Download a copy right here in this Tech Center if you’d like to see it first. Choosing the right 6×2 Progressive kits. Yes, you need more than one box. A 6×2 progressive linkage is really just two 3×2 progressive kits plus the Back-bar which joins it all together. With so many different variables between intakes, that’s how we offer them. Here’s how to order the right kits for your intake: 1. Measure the carb to carb spacing – from one throttle shaft to the carb in front. Then order TWO Stromberg 3×2 progressive (eg. 9251PRO) linkage kits – one for each bank – to suit your carburetor intake spacing. There’s a list of which linkage fits which spacing below. If your spacing is not covered, buy the next size up and trim down the threaded rod between the secondary (outer) carburetors. Trim the right hand threaded end and add more 3/16-32 UNF thread if required. For this spacing….use this kit 4- 9/16inch………..9243PRO 4-3/4inch………….9253PRO (fits Offenhauser Pacesetter 3924) 4-7/8inch………….9251PRO (fits Edelbrock X1 ram) 5- 3/16inch………..9245PRO 5- 1/2inch………….9246PRO 2. Now add the 6×2 Back-bar Kit to link both carburetor banks together. 6×2 intakes differ in the space and offset between banks. For the Edelbrock X1 ram use kit 9261-BB For the Offenhauser Pacesetter 3924 use kit 9262-BB For anything else use kit 9260-BB (Trim-to-Fit). It might also pay to compare the spacing, width and offset of the Edelbrock and Offenhauser intakes (see above in Direct Linkages) to see if they are nearer to your requirements. Your link to the pedal. Stromberg recommends a mechanical pedal link for all multi-carb systems. Ideally, your 6×2 Back-bar can be connected to the pedal via one of the long levers that work the two banks of carburetors (they have three adjustment/connecting holes at the top). However, if these do not line up with your pedal link, you can add a third long lever to the Back-bar shaft with Stromberg kit 9096K (Long linkage arm/swivel) positioned to align with your throttle pedal ‘pull’ point. There is a lot of spring action in a 6×2 set-up so you might want to consider using a 3/32” roll pin to pin your 9096K lever to the Back-bar to ensure positive location.
I've tried that, and adding a third backbar. Due to the position of the pedal it has to pull the bar basically straight up and doesn't have enough throw to span the full travel of the throttle. Wish it coulda worked :'(
Looks like that will work ok. Make sure there is no fuel line rub. Fuel leak + hot engine = no fun. Also, make sure it will never snag. A jammed throttle gets very interesting very quickly......
Hello, Back in late 1959, my brother and I purchased long block 283 that had some aluminum pistons, balanced crank and was sitting on a stand of a small speed shop in our own neighborhood. We were looking for a good SBC motor to use for daily driving and at the drags. We wanted a dual quad set up, which they had in a glass cabinet/counter. But, the owner we knew told us that the 6 Stromberg set up would give more power when we wanted it. We instantly liked where this was going. So, now we were conflicted. We wanted a 283 motor with dual quads as our first choice. We had no idea, other than adding a Paxton-McCulloch supercharger to our motor. We had seen a few daily drivers with the Paxton-McCulloch centrifugal supercharger and they were impressive. The addition would make it a top choice for daily driving and competition use as per rules. We knew about the 283 motors as we had worked on several friend’s set ups. But, not for a Gas Coupe competition build. So, we visited a small local speed shop. The owner wanted to know what we were planning on doing with the SBC motor. When explaining our build, he mentioned that the dual quad was great for the street and drags, but that the 6 Stromberg carb set up would show more power at the drags. At the time, a lot of drag racers/race cars that we had seen, had 6 Strombergs on their motors at Lion’s Dragstrip in most of the different classes, from FED racers to Altered Coupes/Roadsters to Gas Coupes/Sedans. What we really wanted was a Hilborn Port Injection System we had seen at Lion's Dragstrip. But, were told that it was not for daily driving. We mentioned a Hilborn Port Injection System and he said that it would be powerful for the drags, but not so good for the street. So, the conversation moved to the dual quads vs the 6 Strombergs. He just happened to have a 6 Stromberg carb set up just for the display 283 short block or the long block Chevy motor in the storage area. So, after he made us a package deal, we walked off with a new 283 SBC motor, Isky Cam, Jahns Pistons, Chevy truck heads, and the 6 Stromberg carb package. On the way home, my brother had a smile all the way across his face. He also got a progressive linkage for the 6 Strombergs. The adjustable linkage was simple to install. We had to shorten the pedal arm at the firewall. But, it was difficult to get the sliding tabs to coordinate all carbs. Did we want to run the center two Strombergs all of the time? Or did we want all 6 carbs to come into play at once? All at once seemed logical for the drags, but not for everyday on the street. So, for this application, we set it up so all 6 carbs opened up at the same time. Instant power, but it took a lot of gas to keep it running on the street cruise we took it for a night on the town. Our 2.5 gallon Moon tank was not helping this gas usage. But it was perfect for the drags with the pump, the shut off valve and access for the driver when needed. The motor ran fine when we got everything together. It was difficult to coordinate all 6 carbs. But, once done, it was music to our ears. Power on request… On our test weekend drives to our cruising grounds in Bixby Knolls, it was a very fast street hot rod. But, we had to check the gas usage in our small 2.5 gallon Moon Aluminum Tank, almost at every corner. Jnaki Within several months of racing the 283 SBC 6 Stromberg carb motor, we took it all apart for our next level build. All blower spec motor rebuild with a 671 modified supercharger on the newly enlarged 292 c.i. SBC motor. Similar motor build... The 6 carbs were used on top and the straight full power 6 carbs at full throttle was installed with the progressive linkage set at opening all 6 at the same time. For your application, the pedal arm from the firewall seems to be the hold up. Is it necessary to keep it so tall and in that position? Using the line action of the progressive linkage to see that the carbs are opening completely, pull back the aluminum lever. Then see if the lowered end of the pedal arm and connect to the last installed aluminum pull bracket for a smooth movement. If the line drawing does not work, then using a lower pedal arm to make sure the full range of an open throttle can be adjusted with various “L” brackets or “Y” brackets to fit your application. We went with the full 6 carbs at full throttle action on the 283, that made the linkage simple. But, when we tried the similar linkage on our three carb Impala 348 motor, it was too difficult to get the center carb to open all the way then get the outside carbs to open completely, too. So, for that 348 three carb motor, we took off the progressive linkage and kept the factory vacuum tube set up with a clamp to make sure it did not fall off during full accelerations. The center two barrel, was used all of the time in normal street driving. When we wanted full power, stomp the gas and all three carbs roared to life… YRMV
The linkage on both sets of 3 carbs is identical. The pull is on the drivers side middle and should work both middle cabs at once.
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