Looking to Get Started...

Things are starting to get interesting.

 

Load the videos on youtube.com and then post a link for the video on here.

 

crap in radiator looks like stop leak. try retorquing the head to get it to stop. use 30w non detergent oil. drain the fuel and start fresh before diagnosing how it runs/starts.

 

Along with fresh fuel you should know there should be a fine mesh screen actually inside the Carb right behind the fuel line fitting. It catches the fine dirt that don't settle to the bottom of the sediment bowl at the Tank fitting on the Firewall.

 

Today I set the timing, took the carb off and cleaned out the jets, topped off the radiator, and changed the oil.

I also took out the “carpet” in the rumble seat and the mats and wood in the cab just to inspect. No big surprises. No big rust holes or anything.

Observations -

The timing was off and the alignment to the timing adjust on then steering column was way off. The little oil fitting at the bottom of the dizzy was full of dried rust. I worked with a pick, pipe cleaner, and vacuum to clean that out then added oil.

Torqued down the head bolts to 55ftlbs. A few were a bit loose. One had at least a full turn to get there.

The engine oil was very low, black, and had globs of crap in it while draining.

The carb was full of gunk. I cleaned every out including the jets and screen. The fuel mix screw in the cab was not functional. It is now.

Radiator was probably about three quarts low of antifreeze. Topped it off.

Result -

Good- ‘Pappy’ immediately started right up and idled perfectly. Drove him with my dog (Lucy) around the yard and he had much more power than yesterday. [emoji2]

Bad - Radiator was steaming pretty bad and there was a puddle of antifreeze on the garage floor after I parked.

I also still have significant oils leaks. One is the head gasket and the other is from the rear of the oil pan. Main bearing?

And.... both yesterday and today I get a pretty impressive backfire a few seconds after I shut it off. Sounds just like a shotgun. I’ll check the exhaust for leaks tomorrow.

Fun day though!



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You've been busy. Looks like you are making nice progress. Sounds great.

 

F.Y.I.. In stock form a Model A motor does not have any kind of rear main seal. There is supposed to be a return tube in the bottom half of the rear main cap to return oil back into the Pan. It often gets lost. Also if someone installed the old Rope style seal they plugged up the return. If you have normal Sludge in the pan it often plugs up the return. When all things are correct the oil on the rear main bearing can't help but run back into the pan, not out on the floor. Most Old Guys never worried about a little dripping, they called it "Marking there territory". Just add Oil as needed.
I've learned most Banger issues are due to lack of knowledge and attention. When treated right they are pretty reliable.

 

Thanks Pist-n-Broke. I’m ok with a little territory marking. I’m still in the don’t know what I don’t know stage. What is a big issue? What is just life with a 91 year old car? I’m also going to try to do a mechanical brake tune up tomorrow. What would I do without you guys and YouTube?


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Just got back here.....
YOU SCORED!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

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Hey Monkey!
I like wheels.
These are on CL in Buffalo
They are 17 inch with amazing rubber.
These are what a kid in the early '40s would switch to.
The will start your car looking like a Hot Rod.
They are reasonable @ $500 OBO as the ad says.
And you can easily sell the ones you have to a stock A guy!
So they are cheap after a ride to Buffalo.
I HAVE ZERO connection to the seller, but they will probably
end up in my garage if you don't buy them!
Here is the link: post id: 7251576228
Your car will be KILLER with them!
All the best for a great New Year!
Seems like you started out a winner!!!

PS: If you want to play as you go, later
you can put a set of 7-00-17 tires on the rear.
They are usually at least 31 inches high.
An easy way to change your rear end ratio,
to get more top speed without changing anything else!

 

Yeah. Thanks! Very cool. Not sure when I could get up to Buffalo. Let me do some checking.


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BTW
I live in Kingston NY. NOT BUFFALO!
That's about 6-1/2 hours from Buffalo one way!
I like to have more than one target when I have
to drive a full day, so I was keeping the listing
in case something else showed up in the same area!
I scrounge wheels and tires when I can.
I use some and sell the rest.
I have no pre-1965 cars right now but I am
always on the look-out for cars and parts, especially
Model A Stuff! You might be closer than me!

Tony

 

I’m in Maryland. I doubt that I am closer. Ha!


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^^^^^^^^
About 5-1/2 for me
About 6 for you
You are right.... not by much!
Happy New Year again!
Congrats again on the car!
Good night!
Tony

 

Wow! You’re in the same state. I thought you’d be way closer. Regardless, I’m not going to be able to make a Buffalo NY road trip anytime soon. Thanks for the tip on the cool wheels though. I’d probably move on them if they were closer.


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That said - I ended up getting Pappy for a couple thousand less than I was expecting due to how rough the engine was running and the head gasket leak, so now I am looking to start getting my hot rod parts. 1935 wheels or Kelsey Hayes Bent Spoke wheels, intake, down draft carb, header, higher compression head,....
[emoji2]


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If you filled you radiator to the top it might be spitting out the excess when you shut it down. Unpressurized systems don't like the radiator filled all the way to the top, and will find their happy level on their own. Don't be too concerned unless you can see the bottom of the tank when you look in the neck.

 

Alchemy - Thanks. I may have put too much in then. However, I can only see a couple of inches down in the radiator an then it is the metal top.


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Working on the brakes. The pads look “okay”; however, I am concerned that some parts have too much play. Please reference video.




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you can take that play out with adjustment, but replacing any worn parts AND making the proper adjustments will get the brakes working really well. when I would restore a model A brake system for a customer they would always call when they got home praising how well the brakes worked.

 

Having a problem with passenger side rear brake.




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Disregard. I put it all back together and kept going around adjusting and they all seem to be working now. ??????


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the cams look like they are turned in the wrong direction.

 

May be. They are working now. Just took it for a drive and I have brakes now. I want to get them sorted out eventually. I’d be ok with mech brakes for awhile if they are working. Took all day but I have brakes!!!


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Does anyone have a pic or video of how they should look? I’m looking but haven’t found anything yet.


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just look at the cams. they should start at the bottom of their "ramp" when the brakes are not on then as the lever is moved the shoes should move up the ramp. they look like they start "over center" then when actuated hit the high spot.
when those brakes are right they will stop that car fine. millions of them out there.

 

take the spring off the shoes, spread them away from the cam, rotate the cam, put the springs back on and adjust it.