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Ford Model A Coupe Drip Rails 30-31 Flathead Hot Rat Rod SCTA New gutters
SOLD - Nov 21, 2016, 08:53 AM $95.00 Buy It Now, $10.50 Shipping, 14-Day Returns, eBay Money Back Guarantee


Seller: duvallspeedshop (1,482) 100%, Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin, Ships to: US & many other countries, Item: 231638452587Ford Model A Coupe Drip Rails 30-31 Flathead Hot Rat Rod SCTA New gutters. NEW - pair for coupe. I also make 72" sets for Tudor sedans. Look in my other auctions for sedan listing. 1930-31 Ford Model A coupe drip rails.
Hope this helps ya out.

 

I'll add one more thing. Once you dive into what has filled the channel the drip rails set into be ready for some Ugly. Once you start there is no stopping. Think long and hard before starting. For me, first step would be to take the edge of the Headliner loose and look inside above the doors. You may not want to go any further and replacing the headliner is much easier than doing Body and Paint repair because there is nothing solid for the drip rails.

 

Oh yes, what he said^^^^^^^that can be a big can of worms!

 

they could be put on with two way tape. two way tape is used to hold all kinds of stuff on new cars including truck bed rails, bumper trim and moldings. it would work permanently or could be removed later to do it like the factory.

 

.......Don't forget, when you are ordering stuff, that Bratton's is relatively close by in Mt. Airy. They are Model A parts experts and could possibly save you money on shipping. Nothing wrong with Mac's, just another (closer) option. .....Don.

 

Thanks. Didn’t know about Bratton’s. I’ll check them out.


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Yeah. I’ll check everything out but this sounds like more good reason to have this lower on my priority list.


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30/31 drip rails don't attach to any wood, they are spot welded to the body skin. The skin should have a very shallow ridge right where the rail goes, and since yours seem to be smooth up there those ridges might be filled. Maybe just bondo, maybe hammered flat. You won't know for sure until you dig into it. And, there is wood in there hiding it from the inside, but the drip rail doesn't nail to it like the earlier A's did.

 

alchemy - I will definitely eventually be interested in correcting this. Thanks for pointing out the differences.

 

I am looking at wheels now. Yes, the KH Bent Spokes are probably not going to happen. Too pricey. However, I am looking at 1935 wire wheels and now also considering steel wheels. Recommendations for my late 40’s build?

 

Now that Pappy is running and stopping I’m ready to move on to some more exciting hot rod efforts. While I am waiting on some parts (including the return tube and pan gasket) I was thinking of removing the fenders; however, that will leave me with no headlights or tail lights along with the wrong wheels for this look. I went ahead and ordered the headlight stems. I was originally going to do the bar cut and bend but decided just to buy some and save the bar. As far as tail lights go, the PO installed a nice blinker system. I am now thinking of reusing the tail lights just mounted under the rear body. Thoughts? I also have a reverse eye front leaf on order. Once I get that I will install that minus a few leaves. Eventually I will do a drop axle. I’m going to work through several phases with this car/build.

 

Another quick question. When I get Pappy up to speed in any gear the whole car starts to rattle and vibrate like we are coming back through the atmosphere. I bet some of you are going to say “welcome to owning a 1930 Model A. Is there anything I can do to settle things down so it doesn’t sound so harsh in the cab? Anything that is normally the cause for the severe vibrations on deacceleration? Ok, I’m bracing for impact. Let me have it!

 

I've always felt it was R.P.M. related more than M.P.H. There are no weights on the Crank Shaft to stop the Vibs.

 

My new best friends.




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The kind of friends who won't drink all of your beer and eat all of the pizza and then leave while you clean up the beer bottles and pizza boxes.

 

Hey tribal,
another big benefit of larger diameter rear tires is that
it lowers engine RPM.
You get to go faster and shake less!
It does however raise your 0-60 times!!
You really get to play a lot with a Model A!
Also look up Float-A-Motor mounts.
I can't be more specific 'cause I have never used one,
but they have been around I think longer than me!
Check out the Ford Barn.
More info there on all this A stuff!
Keep on!

 

Starting to take parts off.

What do I do with this part of the rear bumper? Cut it off?




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That's for access to the rumble seat!

 

True Model A Hot Rod guys sell all the parts they take
off to the guys that like restored originals.
With Model As There are not many parts that are
really "rare".
They built almost 5 Million in 4 years!
There are still plenty of guys going the stock route,
but less every year.
There is somebody out there that would buy
everything you took off the back in one shot!

 

Yeah. I get that but it is going. Not sure of the best procedure. Going for the look in this pic.




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I hope so. There is going to be a whole lot more from where that came from.


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The rest of the bumper bracket just bolts on, Look!
And yes, sell them with the whole package!
While you are at it, the rumble lid reverses and becomes a trunk.
Then you can sell the rumble seat, maybe to the same guy as the bumpers!
See where this is heading? Keep taking parts off and you will be able to buy
a lot of the stuff you need. It's how lots of old time Hot Rods
got built!

 

Doesn’t seem like much support left under the rear of the car. Hmmm.


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The frame ends at the rear cross member where the spring mounts.
The rest of the body just hangs off!
Most times they were just cut off, right where the 2 uprights
connect leaving them to bolt up for more structural integrity.

 

My thought was if I cut it off it at least it would provide some support. I mean there is a rumble seat back there. Not sure what to think about that.


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Look back at my last post, I added info.
BTW, The picture of the green A with no brackets showing
looks like it's on a '32 frame.
That's a whole different ball game.
The '32 frame has rails that stuck out
behind the rear of the body to mount the gas tank.
To get that look they were gut off at the end of the A body.
Also, I can't really tell from that pic, but it looks like that car has
maybe a '36 rear end with the spring behind, not on top of the axle.
This requires moving the rear cross member back.
Non of this is relevant to your build with a stock A frame,
but it will limit you reaching some of the look you may want.

 

Maybe I'm wrong but I thought you said your wife wanted the rumble seat, so I thought you would want to keep it. Maybe I got your build confused with another one, my bad

 

Dick - Yes, family definitely wants to keep the rumble seat. I just don’t want the bumper sticking out of the back. We’ll just climb on the tire once the fenders are removed [emoji2]


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