Looking to Get Started...

Hey Tribalmonkey,
I'm not recommending this for you, but if you are not running fenders,
I tried to always use 7-50-16 rears and 6-00-16 fronts.
It provides the rubber rake while you work on a 4 inch drop axle,
reversed shackles, leaves out of rear spring, etc etc.
Also, most guys, and Coker for sure, will tell you not to
run 7-50s on a 4 inch rim. I did it for 12 years and at least 5 sets of wheels on my '31.
I don't own it any more but I don't think the new owner will mind!
BTW, this car is on a '32 frame, 4 inch drop front axle, 36 rear, spring behind rear
axle, cross member moved back 7-1/2 inches (I think)
Sorry I drive a lot and don't take many pictures!

 

Oh man! That’s nice. Tire size looks perfect. I’m in.


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I know you said you had a 32 frame but what would I have to do to get that stance?


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I just looked at @drdave thread on the size he is running. Coker Firestones 5.50/16 front, 7.00/16 rear.

 

Normally, a 4 inch dropped axle and lowering shackles gets the front down
just throwing money at it. The rear is a little harder because pulling leaves doesn't
get the rear down far enough. ( you need at least 4 inches and you only
get about 1/2) plus maybe another inch with dropped shackles.
The next step is Z-ing the rear cross member.
It's been done forever but takes cutting and welding, removing the body to do it etc etc.
Search out threads on here, it's been covered forever!
My advice is first leave the fenders on and just put a gigantic, 31 inch 7-50-16 rear tire on and
a 6-00-16 on the front. do it in stages while you are driving it. It's more '40s style to get
the beginning hot rod stance. Then drop the front with a 4 inch drop axle,
and find someone local to help you Z the rear.
IMHO, you will want to be driving this car in 3 months.
It's your first attempt. If you tear it too far apart you might not
get it back together as fast as you think. Read up around here and see how long
this stuff sometimes takes! Think of it like being a teen in the late '40s.
And it looks like you have family enthusiasm that shouldn't be put to waste!
Again, search out these topics here. It is amazing how much info these guys have!
And most are willing to share it!
I'm a little old (70) but I still would rather drive than wrench!
I still try to follow my old days approach.
I get a car running , driving and stopping. then I wrench on week ends.
I used to have to do that to get to work on Monday!
I still play with cars the same way I did in the '60s.
Read my signature!
Just my$.02!

 

Thanks Tony - Yeah. I have been doing a lot of reading. I was just curious what you did to the car in the pics to get that stance and what I would have to do to match. Drop axle and z the rear. That is pretty involved. Im definitely not there yet. I’m pretty determined to pull the fenders though. [emoji2]


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The '32 frame is a game changer to start with.
The front end is done the same as an A frame.
this car also has a new flatter posies spring which gets the front down a little more,
and a Model A front cross member, which is flatter than a '32.
In the rear the original '32 rear cross member is moved rearward.
This allows the rear axle to essentially move up into the space where the spring
would be. It gets about 5 inches because the spring is now behind instead of on top of the rear end.

 

Take a look at this thread

Any pics of fenderless, unchopped Model A coupes?

 

A lot of differences in this thread.
This pic from the thread is about what yours could look
like without too much work.
I think it's very cool just as it is.
It has a late '40s early '50s kid car look which is
sort of my favorite.

 

Instead of Zing the rear frame, just install a T spring. It will bring the car down a couple inches. There won't be a ton of travel, but sometimes you have to suffer for fashion. It's basically a bolt together with the proper combo of parts. There are even repro springs made with the T profile and the wider A leaf I believe. Is it Yankee Spring Company or something like that?

 

As @arkiehotrods already said above, I’m running 550’s up front, 700’s in the read on my 4dr sedan. I’m running a 4 inch dropped axle, 32 spindles in the front with reversed eye main spring and several leaves removed. With the tires that got me right at an 8 inch drop. The back is a T spring. The 700’s are a bit taller than the 19 inch stock A wheels and tires, but the T spring is lower than the A spring, so that combo brought the tail down about 4 inches. Oh, and I’m still running the mechanical brakes.

 

Thanks Tony - Cool! I would be very happy with that look. I really like the steel wheels too. I wonder what he did to get that drop. His tire size combination? I’ll check out that thread later when I get some time.


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drdave - Great stance! Thanks for sharing your information. Nice to see what can be done and still retain the mech brakes. Very helpful.


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I’m interested. I need to learn more about what it takes to install a T Spring and which one to order. Any special adaptors or shackles...?

 

Read Dr. Dave's thread on his sedan.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/drdave-accidentally-buys-a-model-a-now-what.1111340/

 

alchemy - Just read that and down through a bunch of other rabbit holes. Learning lots.... and that just brings up more questions.

 

Rabbit holes? We like rabbit holes here on the HAMB! The more questions, the better! Can't wait to see what you do with your coupe!

 

Quick question - What to do for tail lights after fenders removed? I don’t want to cut holes for tail lights just yet. I also currently have blinkers wired into my tail lights. Not very traditional I know but I like it. I would expect that relocating the stock tail lights would have been a common 1940s mod but I don’t see much of that. License plate relocation? Recommendations?

 

arkiehotrods - I have a ton of questions. I am reading a lot. I enjoy the research. However, I don’t want to ask so many questions that I am an annoying noob. It is just me, you guys, and the rest of the internet. No personal connections to assist. If you think about it... it is almost a group build. Thanks again for everyone’s help.

 

..You can't go wrong with '39 teardrops.

 

Thanks Don - Yes, it seems that is a main ingredient for the recipe.

 

A fellow that I know up in York, Pa. owns and built this Model A. Perfect '39 teardrop location as well as tag and tag light.. He used LED's but that would be a personal choice, not a necessity.

 

Assuming you removed the rear spare tire, you can make up a bracket and bolt the license plate to the former spare tire mount holes, some people also mount a single tail light there. For a pair of tail lights, look up the repro bracket to mount stock tail light for a Model A pickup. You can bolt one on each side thru the bottom of the rear sub rail and use the stock tail lights until you decide what you permanently want.


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I like that idea. Thanks 31Apickup

 

Whoohoo! More reading material! Maybe a few less noob questions for you guys.



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Ahhh... much better [emoji2]


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Blue Moon, Cigar Store Indians, pulling fenders off my Model A Hot Rod = My happy place.

 

Now for the running boards.


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So maybe stash this in the shop attic?




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