Looking to Get Started...

What would be a good traditional exhaust? Why kind of mufflers were available in late 40’s? I was thinking just a straight pipe out the back.


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A homemade header emptying into an old torque tube

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...torque-tube-ish-style-mufflers.1039429/page-2

 

Most of your style of vehicle just didn't as I remember. Often just a pipe off the manifold exiting out the side in front of where the Muffler started. Stock Bangers are not loud without a muffler. They actually sound just normal.

 

I was just Chuckleing a little after posting that up. So you know, in order to get a loud Pop out the pipe it takes a good squeeze in the motor to make that happen. With a Compression ratio of just under 4-1/4 to one that don't happen. Hell, we're lucky they run as well as they do.

 

Drove all around local MD back roads today. Went over to my friend Bill’s house, down some gravel roads, and a couple of truss bridges. Super fun. Some of the ‘hills’ (Braddock Mountain) did test my brakes a bit. No issues. So much fun!

 

True!

 

I cut the muffler off and stuck an Alice Chalmers tractor muffler on from TSC. Pretty loud but not too bad. This is probably a temporary set up until I decide exactly how I want the exhaust.

 

Anthony - This is cool. Not very readily available. I’ll check more into it.

 

I bet a guy here could help ya with the torque tube.
I have one I’m saving for the same thing

 

So one issue using the actual Torque Tube off the early Ford rear axles is the weight. It's not something I ever chose to do however I have seen it done. What you did see a lot of when they were plentiful was the 35-36 Ford inner drive shaft. They were much lighter and smaller in dia actual Tube and the big plus was that they have this real nice tapper on each end and done right could be used on both sides of a V-8 conversion.

 

I’m off work tomorrow. I have a lot of honey do’s, but, I also have a Pappy to do list.

- Go to Bratton’s - get gas gauge gasket. Special gas gauge wrenches???
- Maybe install my Float A Motor mounts if I think I have enough time.
- Use my Les Andrew’s book to inspect/adjust my steering. I keep having a feeling like the steering could fail at any minute.
- Relocate my light switch. PO installed it fine. I just would like to move it to a easier to reach spot. Same with the high beam switch.
- Look at adding the resistor to get my 6v wiper motor working. Where to mount the resistor???
- Organize and store all the parts I’ve removed. I’ve filled up my shop. I can barely walk around. I need to find a spot for the fenders and wheels.
- I ordered some lap belts off eBay. They might arrive tomorrow. I need to take a look at my mounting options.
- I have a reverse eye main leaf for my front spring. I’d like to start lowering soon; however, I’m a bit concerned about getting it to bolt back in. Seems like some people have to buy or make a spreader?????

I’m sure that’s more than I can accomplish tomorrow.


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The way I read it sounds like you have just the main leaf. If that's correct you don't need any kind of spreader. Myself, the way I'd attack that job is just work on the spring, period. Get the car up off the ground with as much room as you can. Take the wishbone ball cup off at the mid plate. Now remove the front spring U-Bolts and just let the Axle and wishbone drop down and out of the front crossmember. Give yourself about 8 to 10 inches of room above the spring so you can get 2 C-Clamps on the spring. One on either side of the Center pin bolt. Get a 12" piece of all thread and replace the stock center bolt and tighten it up. Now remove the C-Clamps. Loosen the nuts on the all thread and let the spring come apart. Once in pieces now remove the main leaf. You should able to do that by hand with no problems. The spring load comes from the total pack, not the main leaf alone. Now install the new main leaf and re assemble in reverse order. You shouldn't have to even remove the brake rods or tires. I'm assuming you have a good floor jack, some jack stands and a kid around for a 3rd hand.

 

Thanks for the recommendation/instructions. I’m on it!


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I just saw that the reverse eye front spring I ordered is a 29”. Is that too short? Will that even work? I’d like to know before I start taking things apart.


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To go with those lap belts....

3" belts are about the widest you'll find. The wider the better. A set of lap belts and a helmet for occasional use, simple and effective.

 

Bump


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Yeah, I think the old axles require a 31" spring.

 

As I remember it. All Model A's used the same Axle and wishbone. When going with reversed eyes it takes a narrower spring due to the change in Shackle positioning. When in doubt put the main leaf up in position in relation to the Axle and see if it reaches the shackle on both ends. I think you'll be okay. The other way to do that is measure between the spring eyes on your car while sitting on the Tires. Mark that distance on the shop floor. Now take the new main leaf and see if you can spread it till it reaches both marks.

 

Got a few things knocked out today.

Replaced the fuel gauge gasket. Well I am not sure what I found in there could be considered a gasket. See pic. Welded up my TSC tractor muffler exhaust and painted it with high heat paint. Installed the float-a-motor rear motor mounts. Made a pretty amazing difference. I’d say these motor mounts and the body mount bolts I’ve installed/replaced have reduced the vibrations by 50%. I still need to do the tranny mount. I also bent the throttle linkage to lower my idle. I can get it to lope along now. Sounds pretty good with the new exhaust. Relocated my light switch so I can reach it easier. Fun day!


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Gas gauge gasket. I bet this one is 91 years old.



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Well... I did the measurements and the 29” is too short. My plan now is to bend the original main leaf to create the reverse eyes. I’ve seen a few threads and videos about this. I’ll try to return the one I bought.

 

That's strange, when I go to supply sights for springs they show a 29" spring to do that job. When I get into the Shop today I'll actually lay a tape measure on mine.

 

Your right, a 29" spring isn't going to get the job done. I got stuck on a phone call talking numbers and am having recall issues right now but I believe I measured 32.125" spring length to center of Eye's. I could go re verify that if you need it. (This age thing sucks)

 

When you reverse that main leaf (easy to do with a shop press), you probably will need to trim the ends of the next leaf a bit so they don't get hung on the reversed eyes.

 

Got it! Thanks drdave!

 

Yeah. I ordered the wrong one. I’m gonna go the reverse bend the main leaf route. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

 

Well... I had a buddy help me drop the front tonight. I think I was too ambitious. We rebent the main leaf for reverse eyes. That seemed to go pretty good. I took out 1, 2, 5, and 8. I stuck the ones I took out along with what was left of 8 after I chopped it down and used them as spacers on the bottom of the stack. We put it all back together, lowered it down, and there was no spring support. Main spring went flat and the whole thing rested on the axle. It had a pretty cool stance though. I’m going to take it back out tomorrow and shuffle the deck. Maybe not be so ambitious this time. Open to recommendations.




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I'd say maybe remove one or two leaves, max. If the car rode nice before, it should have the same amount of leaves to ride nice after. If too stiff, maybe remove the third one up and the second from the top.

Also, how close you matched the reversed arch to the original arch is important.

 

Thanks alchemy - Sounds like a good plan.

 

This may be a stupid question but where is the best place to get a model t rear main leaf spring for my model a lowering effort? I want to get the correct spring this time. ...or should I just rebend the model a spring to be reverse eye?