I went to change the wheel cylinders on the back of my daily driver, but when I turned the nut holding the metal pipe into the cylinder the pipe was turning with the nut. I think it's probably original so it's been there over twelve years on salty snowy roads. Not wanting to have to replace the metal pipe as it's not available from the local auto parts store, anyone have any ideas on what I can use to loosen them apart? I cleaned them up with brake cleaner but I didn't want to use crc or wd40 cos I didn't know if it would react with the brake fluid.
You're pretty much screwed on this deal. If the pipe is turning with the nut you should replace it. Brakes, you know. Wondered why you couldn't get the pipes at your parts store then noted you are in Finland. What is your daily driver? If it's European , heck, WE can get metric brake pipes with the bubble ends and such here so why can't you?
Brake line is brake line. It comes in pre cut lengths, just get a piece the right length and replace it. It's cheap. Just noticed where you're from, maybe things are different in Finland.
It's a toyota, it's the metal pipe that goes between the flex hose and the cylinder that winds along the axle and around the suspension strut. It has a bunch of corners in it to get through all the **** there. I can get the part from the local dealer but its a special order part and they know how to charge; at the dealer the brake cylinder was 4 times the price at the parts store. I was thinking of dripping some brake fluid on it to try to unstick it.
You might get lucky if you try this. Spray the nut down with this stuff ( plumbers use it to freeze pipes) and get it as cold as you can, then tap it with a hammer all the way around. Now apply a little heat from a heat gun and tap some more. Wishing you the luck of the Irish! Terry
If all else fails, splice in a section. I hope you have room to cut the line, and reflare it. Attach a coupler and a short length of tube.
Remove the wheel cyl pistons & rubbers and drain the line completely. Heat the cylinder & fitting with a torch, if its still seized then try and turn the cyl separately from the hose fitting. This may only work if there's room inside the backing plate to rotate the cylinder.
I was going to say the same thing. Back up to a point that you can get loose. Then remove everything so you can get it inside and work on it. You may also find that with it out and open, you can fab a new line to match using the old one as a template. Be SURE to use flare nut wrenches on the fittings. I've had good luck with P-B Blaster cutting through rust/gunk and helping remove OLD fittings, etc.
Yeah, I know. I don't like driving it. I don't like sitting in it. I don't even like looking at it. The only thing I like about it is paying for it. Apart from stuff you do maybe every ten years like brake cylinders, costs me around a grand a year to run, including the gas! I think there's enough clearance to twist the cylinder off from the front, if I take out the adjuster, it's only about 1 1/2 inches long.
If you have a flaring tool, attach the flaring clamp to the brake line, then work the nut. This will give you some solid grip on the line so you dont kink it. Trust me, it will work.
Just to add my 98% sucsessful method... Spray your favorite penetrant on the line at the fitting. Heat with a propane torch. spray again, heat again....Keep working it back and forth a little at a time... It will come apart, just be patient with it. Good luck Dave
Back it out until the steel line twists up and finally snaps off and then replace the tubing from the closest connection that will come apart. The nut is rusted to the tubing. I would not like to trust that tubing after you finally break it loose. Replace it and be done with it.
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