Low budget model a roadster build questions

here it is now


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

If it is out of the car take it to a machine shop, if it is still in the car take it to an alignment shop, they should have the tools.

Charlie Stephens

 

My advice would be to keep the original gas gauge. They work well, why do you want to change it?

Charlie Stephens

 

The person that is probably most knowledgeable on converting a Model A to hydraulic brakes is Dennis Cling at clingsaftermarket.com, (480) 777-1202. I think I would prefer to make my own master cylinder mount instead of the one he sells.

Charlie Stephens

 

Again I will ask is the stock steering box ok ( as in safe ) to use with a v8 set up?


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

The stock box to some is too stiff and notchy and the ratio is a little quick when you get up there in speed..the common switch is to a mid 30's Ford car cross steer box,'48-'52 F1 truck box, '53-'56 F100 box. These seem to be the most common swaps for traditional steering. Of course there's the Vega box(cross steer)and reversed corvair box(traditionally setup). There are many other options also. Chevy manual steering box from the 70's, Ford Ranger box...the list goes on. If you look into the "Vern Tardel" series of how-to manuals, I think they go by the name "Let me show you how" series. They go over the most popular ones and rebuilding, and what to look for.

 

I have a chance to get a steering box from a landcruiser has anybody used one of these?


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

So of the three commonly steering boxes ( corvair ,f100, mustang ) what is the best to use ?


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

Bump


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

good move replacing the axle- to straighten one out would cost a lot more than a flea market replacement for 25 bucks or so.Pic#3- 2nd row caravan seat is perfect for all "A"s and if you're lucky, you can find one that folds forward to access the trunk( easy to get out too- they have a lever/ latch ***y. that lets you remove them with no tools).Pic #2-Space in an "A" is limited, so plan accordingly.I've been using late 60's early 70's Mustang boxes and they work real well.( usually 100-125 bucks for a nice tight one)You do have to reverse the pitman arm or it will hit the cowel. Good luck-keep posting pics. (and build it the way YOU want to #1) Mike from M***.

 

I have a new question... I have a s-10 rear end that is hooked to the model a rear spring . I know the banjo rear the car had 1 radius rod on each side can I do the same with the new rear end or do I have to use a four link setup ? Also is a panard bar necessary ? I am trying to keep this as simple as possible


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

With a spring over setup the panhard is not necessary (the spring will hold back the side to side movement), but would not hurt. For keeping the rear end in place, you could go ladder bars, or keep the radius rods.

There are a TON of Model A builds on the HAMB. I would suggest searching them out and studying them. That is a great way to get ideas for your build and just to see what other folks have done. You can also search terms like "S-10 rear end" and you may find the answers to your questions that way.

 

Looks like it may be a "bumpy road" so far, but sign me up to see a the build

 

I've tried to search this but no no luck on what I'm looking for


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

63Fairlane gave you some very good advice. Try to stay focused on selecting a front suspension type and a rear suspension type that are suitable to your budget traditional build. Don't worry about the gas guage and ash trays just yet.

Also, roll your ch***is out into the light and take some decent photos of it from all angles. When we can see what you've got to start with we'll be in a much better position to make suggestions.

While you're doing your suspension homework, find a few photos of cars you'd like yours to look like when you are done. Post them here as examples. That will help us make suggestions that are appropriate to your end goals.

 

here it is now


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

A nd this is the sort of the look I'm going after . At this moment I just need to know what I need for stabilizing the rear end . I just don't know if I need to do a four link set up or if 2 radius rods would work fine or maybe ladder bars?



They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

You said you got the body off, pictures of the frame, etc. would help. I agree with the above post that recommended transverse springs, as close to "A" as possible while making it safe. F-100 steering is also a very good idea, I ran one for years, small, quick, and easy to get on to an A frame. Check the frame very carefully, and, no matter what sbc you use, a boxed frame would be a really good idea...

 

you beat me to it...is the frame already boxed?? and what kind of rear end is it?

 

Ladder bars will prob be your best bet on your rear end, or four link whatever you prefer. I'm not expert but wishbones on a rear end have to be triangulated like original but they had a torque tube back then that played a roll and with out that solid drive shaft and tube it won't work, unless you do what I believe is called a 3rd link on top of the rear end to go to the frame, but you'd still need to beef up those wishbones, maybe someone with better knowledge can correct or confirm the above statements

 

It's an s-10 rear end and at this point only attached to the spring


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

Okay, now we're getting somewhere!

Looks like you've got a stock front end with split bones and disc brakes. Fine...for now.

If you plan to keep the transverse rear spring and want to go simple and cheap you can't beat Pete and Jake's Model A Rear Ladder Bar Kit. http://www.peteandjakes.com/Catalog3.aspx

Then take a long look at the entire Pete and Jake's catalog for particulars on this setup and for lots of info on other tried-and-true Pete and Jakes suspension components. It's a wealth of knowledge!

Here's a link to the Pete and Jake's website: http://www.peteandjakes.com/

 

That brown car is a friend of mine's and member @Bull . That is a great example of a fun and simple hot rod. SBC, T5, Dropped I beam up front and 4 bar in the rear (going to change to ladder bars this winter). He drives the absolute piss out of that thing and it is a solid runner.

FYI, he runs the stock gas gauge and tank.

 

Here are the results that came up when I typed in "s-10" into the search field of the Hokey *** Message Board.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search/5632411/?q=s-10&o=relevance&c[node]=5

 

I'm leaning toward ladder bars as I can make my own pretty quickly but would like more input from those of you that have done this or similar.


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

I just put ladder bars in my Model A on the A frame with the help of a buddy. The process was pretty straight forward and the same buddy is going to make a set for the brown car you referenced earlier. Mine is held up by a buddy spring and my friend's car will be held up with coil overs and a panhard.

 

I just scored a corvair steering box today . I'll have to reverse it but at least I have it. Still working on what to do for ladder bars or 4 link


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

I plan to weld brackets to the rear end for the ladder bars then bolt the ladder bars solid to that bracket and leave the pivet point at the front of the bars similar to what the ladder bars 63fairlane pictured does that sound right?


They told me it couldn't be done... So I'll try it.

 

Just make sure the rear can be adjusted if you need to.

There are clevises that attach the ladder bars to the brackets on the rear end. That allows for fine adjustment of the angle of the rear end and to make sure it is square to the rear of the frame.

My buddy ***us is a magician creating them. Took him no time at all. I would have been at it for days.

 

About the seat...
We used a late 80's S10 seat in our roadster. Chopped about 5" out of the center. Recovered it, works great and looks like the original. The back tilts forward to access the trunk...