Projects Lowering 1950 F1

I am planning to lower my stock 1950 Ford F1 this winter. I'd like to achieve the lowest drop without having to notch the frame. From my reading I'm coming up with a 3" drop axle, reversed front springs, possibly a leaf removed. Rear every other leaf removed or flipped rear to top of springs.

Do I seem to be on the right track? Any other necessary things to look out for along the way?

I'm currently running stock rims and would like to keep as big as a rim as I can, but I understand I may need a smaller rim up front to accommodate clearance.
Suggestions about the process, shops that drop axles and information is appreciated!

Thanks! - Mike

 

don't know about the front, but if you move the rear to the top of the springs, you will need to notch the frame for clearance, and it mite be too low for you.
...on my 48, I removed the orig. rear leaf springs and bolted on ones from a 60-70's 1/2 ton Ford (other brands mite work also), these have more arch and better ride, , then mount rear on top of springs and use proper lowering block/saddles, ...I clip'd the front, PM me for details on that if interested. no frame notch needed.

 

I did the same in the rear , and reached fronts with Toyota 4x4 power steering box , worked as new . You can also have a stock axle dropped . Lowering the front with straight axle requires some steering arm rethinking also .

 

You can keep all of the rear leaves and turn the rear shackle up-side-down.

My avatar is a 1948 F-1 panel truck. The frame and drivetrain were the same as used in F-1 pickups. For a while I ran it with some rear leaves removed. Hated it. Looked great but it would bottom out on the most minor of bumps. I turned the rear shackles over and installed a full set of refurbished springs. If I remember correctly, I ground off the rivet heads and drove the remainders out. I believe that the 4 bolt holes are the same if you turn the shackles over. I used grade 8 bolts with double nuts and reattached them.

I believe that this lowered mine about as much as I could without notching the frame.

One minor modification is required. The leaf and shackle interfere with each other if the shackle isn't relieved somewhat. It's only some minor grinding but must be done.

Note that these pix are the ones I downloaded from a H.A.M.B. thread before I did my modification. I took pix of mine but can't find them. When I did mine I cleaned and painted everything. I also replaced the shackle pins and bushings.

This is the unmodified passenger side setup:


Passenger side after reversing; finger points to where shackle must be relieved:


Look closely and you can see where this shackle was ground for relief right in the curve (this is the driver side shackle):



This is what mine looks like lowered. I realize that trying to compare panel truck and pickup truck doesn't really compute, especially when one is loaded onto a trailer, but it is what it is. My front is OT crossmember and suspension. I have no way of knowing how much the rear was lowered by this; or the front either for that matter. If it is important to you, I can measure from the ground up to the frame rail at the rear axle.

 

Here is a thread that @Kevin Lee posted many years ago. The pix have been lost, probably in a hamb upgrade, but if you sweettalk Kevin (by message) he might send them to you or edit his thread to include them again.

 

https://droppedaxles.com/ford-dropped-axles-0
Look at their pictures.
https://droppedaxles.com/photo-album
Might help

 

thank you for your help and input and for attaching that thread. it is helpful information.

 

thank you. I have reached out to them for more information as well. they def have more experience with this stuff then I do

 

Flipped the rear axle, Mustang 2 front end

 

My F1 is sitting alongside my shop. NO rust ever, it's a '52. A friend 'donated' front sheet metal to make it a '50.
Yours is sure beckoning to me... (M II front end)
That truck sits just...Dreamy!
(Is there room to adjust some positive caster into it? I 'corrected' an installation of Dodge Diplomat front susp. in a '54 F100. MUCH cutting and welding, finally the truck stopped trying to chase its tail. Very 'squirrelly') Fixed it.

 

did flipping the rear axle require you to notch the frame?

 

No did not have to notch the frame. I had no trouble adjusting the camber on the Mustang 2 suspension. It handled great. Those front ends match really well with the F-1’s