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Lowering a stock 40 Coupe??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Toast, Aug 24, 2009.

  1. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    I have a 4" drop axle for the front and spindles and drop arms. My question is, can I lower the rear 4" with the closed driveline and stock bones? If so, what would be the best way? Someone make a rear spring that will get me there? I have asked a similar question before but am getting ready to do it and don't want to take short cuts that I will regret later:( I have the tires and wheels done and on and would like to get it as low as I can keeping the stock driveline.


    [​IMG]
     
  2. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    DO a lot of measuring around the radius rods, etc. to see how much drop you can get by:
    Flattening the rear crossmember. Straight across the frame rails, how much difference? My guess, about 3-4".
    Reverse eye mainleaf. Usually good for 1 to 1.5".
    That should do it with the least amount of damage.
     
  3. 32 Barn Car
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 663

    32 Barn Car
    Member
    from Oregon

    Mine is lowered with springs and wheels / tires only . Both springs are de-arched , a few leaves removed and reversed eyes , stock axle.........
     

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  4. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    perfect!
     
  5. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    He's wanting 4" front and rear, did the tires, leaves, do that? Just curious.
     
  6. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    I was going to try the leaf removal first but didn't know how much that would effect it? My rear tires are stock size 6.00 16's so no help there. Speed way sells a rear spring that claims 2.5 inch drop from stock but its probably sagging from stock some already after nearly 70 years.??
     
  7. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    Don't have to get a full 4" but don't want a huge rake. Plus I don't know if 4" is doable with closed drive and stock bones anyway?
     
  8. I just got back from looking under about three dozen 39-40 coupes at Pleasanton. IMHO the tits set-up was a dropped axle with a reverse-eye spring in front, and a banjo, de-arched spring and extended shackles out back. These cars also ran tube shocks at both ends -- and un-split wishbones. 16 inch wheels were the ticket, too. Looking at coupes side by side, 16 inch wheels just looked right. The 15 inchers looked kinda pee-wee. They all seemed to have too much offset, too -- and started creeping out toward the fender lips.

    At first glance, you seem to have an issue with the rear wheels being centered in the wheel arch. Is that just the angle of the photo?
     
  9. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    I do not own this 40 coupe anymore. :(
    I sold it to Krusty40 here on the HAMB.

    [​IMG]

    I used 225x75/15 tires on the rear and 165x80/15 tires on the front.
    The front suspension was a 4 inch drop axle and original spring with a few leaves out. The rear spring was a original spring with a few leaves out. It had later model aftermarket shocks :D

    It rode, drove and handled great for a old, high mileage stock suspension 60 something years old Ford :)

    It was down more than 4 inches in the rear ... with the stock rear end and torque tube.
     
  10. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    :D :D

    My 225/75/15's were actually about 1/2 inch taller than the stock 16 tires that originally came on 40 Fords. I do agree about the 15 inch rims needing to be in the right offset. :)

    I used a set of 56 F-100 centers and bought a set of 15 inch wheel sheels from Speedway ... set the offset where I wanted and then welded them up on a axle between centers on a lathe ( after indicating them true ).
     
  11. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    At first glance, you seem to have an issue with the rear wheels being centered in the wheel arch. Is that just the angle of the photo?[/QUOTE]


    No illusion that is the way it is. I have seen others that way as well. I don't know what could cause that or how to fix it with closed drive line :confused:
     
  12. Back in the 50s we just used 6" shackles in the rear...Didnt know about swaybars then and we got wheel scrub on the inner fenders in a severe turn....But we were young and stupid.didnt care as long as it looked "Cool".................
     
  13. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is a HAMBer's car that I spent some time crawling under. He's running 5.50 x 16s and 7.00 x 16s and the axle/spring/shackle set-up described above. This car's stance totally made it stand out from the pack. There's been a very minor bit of hammer/dolly work done to the front fender lips to keep the tires from rubbing at full lock, but I didn't notice it till he pointed it out. He also said it rarely hits the bump stops out back. I prefer running a hood, but this was a REALLY cool car. Hey, if I had a flattie that nice I'd probably leave the hood at home, too.
     
  14. Good question. How did guys address this, without going to parallel springs?
     
  15. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    Wow! That car has a great stance! Might be a bit too low for what I was going for but it sure looks good! I still think I would run a hood though.
     
  16. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    Well, lowering it will help the tire/wheel location some, It will move back some.
     
  17. These always look an inch lower when they're sittin' on grass...
     
  18. 32 Barn Car
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 663

    32 Barn Car
    Member
    from Oregon

    Just measured mine on level paved ground . I have 15" wheels , 5" wide front and 7" wide rear . Tires are 5.60 front , 25.79" tall and 7.00 rears , 29.29" tall . Car measures 13 1/2" to ground at back of rear fender and 8" at front of front fender . 9" back of running board and 7" at the front edge of the board . This wheel / tire combo is all that would work on my car & not rub , I tried larger . A stock 6.00 X 16 tire is 27.91" tall .......
     

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    Last edited: Aug 24, 2009
  19. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    Okay, I went the more expensive route and bought new Posie Super slides front and rear, both reverse eye. I figured I would want it lower so the first try I just took out the small 2 leaves at the top and put them on the bottom just for spacers:eek: that made it sit exactly where it was with the stock spring! Sooo..... I took out the next 2 which only leaves the 4 that are bolted together on both ends. Now it came down about 2" :eek: Well where can I get 2 more inches? I just want the edge of the fender well to be even with the edge of the white wall? Will the spring settle any? The tank is out and r=the rear floor ir out but that, less gas, might be 50 lbs. When I hang on the rearbumper, all 200+ of me it gets about wher I want it?? Any words of wisdom? The front is next:eek:
     
  20. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,264

    19Fordy
    Member

    Whatever you decide, be sure and "relocate" the rear suspension so the wheels look centered in the opening. Make sure the front wheels are centered also. Otherwise it will never look "right."
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2009
  21. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,361

    zibo
    Member
    from dago ca

    Maybe you have a different year rearend/tork-shaft in there?
    TP
     
  22. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    It was all original except the motor, I just don't get it??
     
  23. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,264

    19Fordy
    Member

    Go to this site to see dimensions of original 1940 Ford frame and compare measurements with those of your frame. Also examine your frame and driveline and see if you can find any hints of modification, like welding. It might reveal something.
    http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/FrameDiagram1935-40.pdf
     
  24. YBlockCruizer
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 107

    YBlockCruizer
    Member

    My '40 has an old Mordrop 3" dropped axle up front with stock spring and stock rear springs with longer spring shackles. It is running 15" '50 Mercury rims with 5.90 front and 8.20 rear biasply tires....Steve
     

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  25. Bosco1956
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 545

    Bosco1956
    Member
    from Jokelahoma

    My 39 standard
     

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  26. lazyv8
    Joined: May 24, 2004
    Posts: 577

    lazyv8
    Member

    thanks for the kind words DETONATOR! i drooled over your car last weekend but didnt get to talk to ya!
     
  27. Rusty
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 9,482

    Rusty
    Member

    Are yall making the longer shackles or is somoen making them that sale them
     
  28. Vern Tardel makes them.

    Let's get this thread rolling again. What's the perfect stance for a '38 to '40 coupe? What did you do to get it?
     
  29. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,043

    chaddilac
    Member

    Dude... just get the torch out!!:D
     

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  30. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,264

    19Fordy
    Member

    FRONT:5:60 x15 Coker (2 3/4"WW), Tire dia. 25.88 on 15 x 5 1/2" early Ford truck rims(Total rim width of 6 1/2"); 3 3/4 in. backspacing. Stock drums; Posie reversed eye spring; Magnum 4 " dropped axle ( 3/4 in narrower than stock axle), Magnum dropped steering arms; stock sway bar and perch bolts and unsplit wishbones; had to narrower the drag link and the tie rod 3/4 in. 8BA flathead. Bolt pattern is 5x 51/2. REAR: 7:60x15 Coker BF Goodrich (3 3/8" WW); 28.66 dia tire on SOLIDS 15 x 6 rims (Total width of 7"); 4 in. backspace; Stock 40 rear,spring and shackles. Bolt pattern is 5 x 5 1/2". Front grille chin pan clears ground by 4 1/8 in. This set up dropped the front end a total of 8 3/4 in after "settling". Need to use 2 jacks to change a flat front tire cause it sits so low.(Just pretend the wheels arn't red.)
     

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