Technical Lowering choice???

So this is what i need? https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detai...nk_Rebuild_Kit_Except_3948_Dubonnet_Knee.html

 

About lowering your car. The traditional method is to cut one coil off the front coil springs and install 2" lowering blocks in the rear.

This makes the car lower but does not make it impossible to drive on normal roads. If you go too low you risk bottoming suspension or dragging the ground over bumps, especially when you have a full load of p***engers and baggage.

To cut the springs you need to remove the springs from the car and cut off one coil with a cutting torch or cutoff wheel.

The lowering blocks you can make yourself. You will need 2 pieces of 2 inch square steel tubing made of 1/8 inch thick steel. In North America this is a standard type of steel tubing, used to fabricate all kinds of things. Any welding shop or fabricating shop should have some pieces in their s**** bin. No doubt they have the same kind of steel in Europe, perhaps in a metric dimension. 50mm X 50mm ?

When you have the square tubing you need to cut it to the appropriate length, a little longer than the spring mount. Then drill a hole in the middle. When you remove the axle from the spring, you will see there is a bolt in the middle of the spring that has a round head. This bolt fits into a hole in the spring mount. You need to make a hole of the same size in the lowering block.

You also need to weld a pin or short bolt into the lowering block on the opposite side to the hole. This is so the spring mount and spring cannot move on the lowering block.

The easiest way is to drill 2 holes opposite each other. In one hole, put a short bolt in from the inside of the tube, and weld the head in place. Then cut off the bolt to the correct length.

Then you need new U bolts of suitable length. Spring shops make these up all the time. They keep in stock, straight bolts or studs threaded at both ends, which they bend to fit the job they are working on.

Spring shops today work mostly on trucks since the newer cars do not have leaf springs. If there is a spring shop in your area they can furnish new U bolts.

 

thanks for your advice, but im waiting for a set of 3" loweringblocks to come the coming week. I think i will cut one and a half coil of, and hope it would fit with the 3" blocks. I want it to be really low, and as i can see and me***ure there will be no trouble.

 

Whatever method you chose to lower the front, you must get an alignment after words or you will quickly wear out your front tires.

 

Finally got my lowering blocks. So now it may well be weekend, so the styleline can be thrown into the asphalt And i just ordered a idler arm pivot pin repair kit, and a drag link rebuild kit. I also ordered: front timing cover seal, and rear main seal, so hopefully just a bit of oil will stay inside the engine. I am really looking forward to summer. Low, good steering, not as much oil leaking. And the engine runs really great to. I wish I could say I'll see you out there, but unfortunately I can not just past the carmeets in the US I will try to take some pictures from some of the US-car and hot rod meets in Denmark STAY INLINE