There may already be a thread on this, but I wanted to show what to expect when lowering an A. Since getting this car I have run the gamut on getting it lowered. The first pic is all stock front and rear with 650-16s all around. Pic 2 and 3 is with stock 36 front axle, 5 leafs with reversed eye in front, 5 leafs with reversed eye in back. 700-16s rear 5.50-16s front. Both front and back have about 1" of space between top of tires and bottom of fenders. Pic 4 is now with 4" dropped axle, 5 leafs with reversed eye. Changed to 32 spindles and reversed steering balls to upside down to clear wishbones with tierod. No change at rear from pics 2 and 3. Front tire is now tucked neatly up inside front fenders by about 1.5". Pic 5 is no change in front from pic 4 but model T rear springs, reversed eye, 5 T leafs and 1st A leaf to help locate springs in frame pocket. Rear tire is now tucked about 1" into fender. I had to lengthen my lower shock bracket 1.5", so that would be the approx. drop from A to T springs at rear. There is about 4" clearance from top of third member to bottom of frame at spring pocket. I was a little concerned about this, but put about 45 miles on today in my area where roads are pretty rough and have not bottomed yet, so feeling little better now. All this being said, I doubt you can go any lower without frame mods, which is what I was shooting for and car still rides and handles nicely. This has been a huge trial and error excercise that spanned about 6 months. Just hoping to help those that are trying to figure best way to lower their cars to whatever height they are looking for. Sorry had trouble downloading pics in order. Wanted them below but get what you get I guess.
I don'tsee all thee photo's you are referring to but if this photo is what you have now you can ask for the car to sit any better,you have hit a home run! HRP
HRP Yeah that pic is almost identical to my old pick but rear now has T springs see difference above.
I think that frame mods are way more common now than they were 50+ years ago. Dropped axles and spring mods would have been the most common because they could be done while keeping the car on the road. There was a time that scraping was important to me and it hasn't been that long ago. I think more subtle mods are actually more traditional, at least would have been with the exception of those full on show cars that were not built by people who were commonly building and driving cars.
Looks good. If you go any lower be sure to check for tire clearance. From what I can see of the engine mods I like them also. Charlie Stephens
everything clears just fine but I wont go any lower....the motor is original with a bunch of hot rod stuff that makes it look more high performance than it is that's for sure
Thanks for the pics and info, perfect stance, I'm In the proces of lowering my Rpu... Enviado desde mi XT1068 mediante Tapatalk
Looks great. Looks like you went with some Yapp speed parts. I assume your car runs much better than stock. I just got a Lion III head delivered today.
Yeah you will love it. I read all the pros and cons on the head but I have no complaints at all...driven it on 100+ degree days a few times ...no pinging or detonation issues at all...the electronic ignition really works well sent some pics as you move along im interested in seeing your rig Ron
Hello Ron! I have a question ? The T leaves have some modifications apart of the reverse eye? Enviado desde mi XT1068 mediante Tapatalk
none other than the second longest leaf has to be shortened about an inch on each end...and i have 5 leafs total plus the very top leaf from my original a spring to help locate he leafs properly in the spring pocket
That and the pictures are helpful. Thanks. I have a T leaf and it looks about the same but bottoms out. Not on both sides but if I jump on a fender it will on one side. I was thinking I needed a new main leaf ad that it may be too flat.
Ron, how much clearance did you end up with from the top of rear radius rod to underside of frame rail where it crosses and does it ever bottom out there ? Thanks.
i just measured it at 2" should amount to about 3+ inches of movement at the axle.if you think about it, most shocks only have about 6 in travel overall, if you set them at mid point thats only about 3 ins of upward travel.It has never bottomed anywhere and you can always replace a leaf or two if needed, but im sure my sedan is heavier over the rear axle than a coupe or roadster. we have some pretty rough roads around here ( Calif spends all our road taxes on benefits for illegals ) and no problems yet.
Thanks for the info Ron. I have read and been told to use a 32 axle, 34 axle and now I see you used a 36 axle. What info I never get is did you use the complete 36 axle, spindles, steering arms and tie rod or did you just put the 36 axle in with the Model A spindles, steering arms and tie rod? Did you only go to the 32 spindles for the 4" dropped axle or was this done for the 36 axle?