Technical Lowering shackles for a 41 Chevy?

Since I switched to an OD a few years ago, I also switched to an open drive shaft and a truck rear end (1962ish I think). But since than she is sitting a bit high at the back. I already have 2 inch lowering blocks in place, but would love to get an other 2-3 inch down.
Are there any lowering shackles for a 41?

Thanks, Frank

 

Stick your head under the back end and look at the shackles. Imagine if they were longer like a Ford style lowering shackle would be. Does that look like it would lower your car?

 

buy some lowering leaf springs

 

Yes lowering springs

Ah F'it - just channel the car.

 

yep, they do sit high. Had a 40 with blocks and it still did, so like the others said, i bought a set of 2" lower springs (w/ teflon ****ons for the ride and slide) and still had to use some blocks, but that did it.

 

41 chevy car shackles are inverted and lengthening them would very quickly result in interference with the underside of the frame. 1/2" drop available maybe?

Heavier on the lowering blocks would work, as would dearching the spring but the clearance above the axle might get compromised.

Moving the springs inboard or ch***is notching will get if lower, I guess, but that's a ton of work.

Pic is an Internet item gathered when I was working on mine.



Chris

 

The problem with more lowering blocks is scrub line. The spring end of the U bolts gets really low. You cab get about and inch on the rear by using front shackle plates. You can take out a couple of leaves.

 

Some pics of mine. Lower than stock, but not super low. Scrub line is kinda marginal! Spring and shackles by Posies. Home brewed lowering blocks.

 

I usta have a '39 Chevy sedan that used the stock springs. I used some aftermarket shackles that were the same length as stock, but had nice rubber bushings. I didn't do anything to the arch of the springs. But I did have some 2"-ish lowering blocks in the car. The rear tires sat right in the center of the fender opening, just right for hot rod stance, but not low enough for custom stance.

I think all of this era of Chevy could use some help on the front mount of the spring. They all seem to hang low up front, and if scrub is going to violated, that is NOT the end you want to snag (think pole vault). A guy should be able to notch the frame and make a pocket to hold the front eye of the spring, if he is a careful fabricator. If he's just a "bolt-on" guy he should stick to blocks and only go kinda-low.

 

On my '36, I know not a '41 but anyways, I ditched the long front spring perches and fabbed up new ones from 2" heavy wall box tube that mount the front spring eye and inch or so from the bottom of the frame. I used to run 2" blocks but now they are not needed. This mod and dearched leafs should get you where you need to be... Mitch

 

I flipped the top spring on a '47, then re-***embled the pack. You need to shorten both ends of the next leaf down or they will bind up on the spring eyes. From memory this got it down about 2".

 

OOOHH FISH, my brain just woke up, a '41 has a top hat style frame and my '36 has a channel/boxed frame so the spring hanger I made will have to be a bit different on yours. Maybe flipping and rearching the main leaf would be the easiest way to start...Mitch

 

Stock front hanger.

 

Happydaze, I see,,,, all he needs is a re-arch and main leaf flip I guess. Mitch

 

Ohhhkay - that looks different than mine. Maybe that's the reason why she is strittig so high.
Should be easy to flip the shackles upwards though - could get me an other 2 ich.



Talking about old school lowering blocks....

 

Ha ha, that's exactly how mine was set up when I got it! Incorrectly installed at the rear (instant jack up kit!), and lowering blocks (but not stacked plates) to get it down again!

Looks like you've got 3 to 4 inches of drop at the rear shackles, but watch the pinion angle as I suspect yours, like mine, was welded with the install incorrect. ****ing whackamole!

My springs were so tired they sat overcentered. I swapped to Posies springs which are lowered, but required lowering blocks. But looking at the spring pack show I suspect mine had leaves removed, probably to lower it, but all they did was wrap up with minimal amount ot torque.

Chris

 

"Easy" to flip is not necessarily the word.

Care must be taken when doing this. If you are levering the spring against the frame hanger, once it gets past the point-of-no-return, it will accelerate quickly. Be ready.

It should go without saying, but I will say it anyways: do this with the rear end hanging, with the rear of the frame on jack stands.

 

Also, lever at an angle.

Make sure that the far end of your lever is on the outside of the spring hanger, and the nearer side is on the inside of the spring eye, such that you are levering with your hands to the inside of the spring line.

If you don't, and you lever inline with your hands in-line with the spring, you risk playing the Punch the Spring Game. I have tried that, so you do not need to.

 

Dis***emble the shackle (with the axle and body supported), then re-***emble with the weight off everything. Are you still running a torque tube? That fixed set up is only good for an open drive.

 

Okay - I was thinking of unbolting them, didn't even think of a lever.

Frank

 

I changed to an open drive shaft and that 10 bolt rear end, when I was converting to an overdrive.

 

You want to follow what gimpy said. Do not take it apart as you will quickly see it is a Bear to get it back together. Lift the rear of the car and get it on a Jack stand. Let the rear axle drop so it isn't fighting you. Then use a lever, I used a tire iron on my 52, to lever the spring back up and over the top of the shackle. When you hear the BOOM, you'll know it's in place! That should get the car down to a more pleasing ride height.