Why don't you make a set? They can be made out of 2x4x1/4" box tube. Just drill the hole for the alignment pin all the way through, and weld a new alignment pin into one of those holes. The "hole" with the pin welded in goes up. If you don't want to come down quite that far, just go with a different size box tube. You can go anywhere from 1 to 4 inches using that method. That's what I did on my '52.
I made my own perch that incorperated a lowering block. I have installed an open drive line so my axle isnt the stock set up. If this sounds like something you would be interested in Pm me. I'll shoot you pictures. and discription of how I did it. also with out sacrificing your scrub line. (dont forget about the scrub line) dont just go low thing all will be fine, to just have a blow out one day and loose control sliding on a suspension member instead of a wheel.
I made my 4" blocks and u-bolts. Nowhere has them that I could find. All the other blocks were too wide. Here is a post about it... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=240978&highlight=chevygirlrox
I am definitely NOT trying to tell suggest you are wrong here, or sound like a know-it-all, but I've seen the aftermath of a drop-job that wasn't well thought out. Are blocks really the best way to lower that thing? And do you really want 4"...doesn't look like you have 4" to go. You will be reducing the ability for your suspension to compress. Are you all going to install bump-stops as well? If not you'll definitely be kissing the ground A LOT!You may also consider variable rate shocks which compress at a slower rate than they rebound.
I have the 3" drop kit on my 1950 and if I remember right I belive the night prowlers kit simply give you two 1.5" blocks that stack on top of each other to make the total 3" drop. SO I have considered adding more drop by purchasing an individual inch block to add to the pile.
I dont think so. The car seems to handle better than my boat '61 impala. the rear suspension is stiff and it works. however I will say the entire job of installing these block on mine has been a temporary answer and quick fix to lowering my 1950. I desire to have it lower in the long run and when the cash comes in Ill be doing the frame notch, bags or hydros. fully aware of course that that is not as it was done back in the day. I find it a little hard to imagin leaving those blocks on your car forever.
That was what I was thinking...temporary at best. I think you could use the blocks permanently if you wanted to, it just seems to me that without notching the frame or addressing shocks and bump-stops, etc...you would eventually have problems under certain driving conditions. I'm ging to slam my '56 Chevy pickup and I know that I need to notch the frame or I'll be in trouble. Nothing worse than bottoming out at 50+mph and jarring a tooth loose.
4" on those skinny springs is an awful lot if you have an open driveline. It wouldn't take that much torque (or hard braking) to wrap up the springs and perhaps even yank the driveshaft right out of the ******.
The problem with removing leaves is you sacrifice correct spring stiffness and spring rate, bound and rebound will suffer as well as body roll and pitch in turns...it will iincrease and you won't be pleased in the long run. In my experience the best ways to lower involve rearched monoleaves, drop spindles, notched frames, drop axles, and flipped shackles or a good combination of some or all of these. Blocks are an inexpensive way for a reason...
Yeah yeah I've been hearing that too. that sounds decent. I guess we could all agree that the same grade/budget treatment to address the front suspension drop would be just cutting the coils eh?
nothing wrong with cutting coils, you will need to re-adjust caster. your shop manual should tell you how to do this. another option is heating coils but not many people know how to do it right... usually end up with a melted mess.
i have 4" bloks on a 50 poncho travels fine i just had to put new shocks i search in google and here you go http://store.gaugemagazine.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=251
well im lowering my 47 chevy i went with all jamco stuff 2 1/2 drop spindles 3 inch drop coils rear 4 inch drop springs 1 and a half inch blocks we shall see how that goes no bags or anything to that liking . probably gonna have to c notch the frame but oh well . they build all your springs and coils to whats motor and trans and rear ya have in your car. i will let ya know how it works out when it all gets here. and buy and allaince membership before ya order and save your self some cash
heres one way open drive line too. please note: mock up stage..not welded yet, and the bolts and lower plates not trimed yet.. I have no scrub line issues , once it was completed, , over 3000 miles on it so far.
the front end i sliced off 1.5 coils with an edge grinder keeping the heat to a minimum and keeping a cold wet rag on the sping part that was going back in the car. I measured twice and cut once..making sure they were even. car handles fine, actually a bit better than before less body roll and better cornering. its not slamed like the bagged cars..but than again my feelings are bags are for groceries and something you call a wreched ol lady
Cutting coils has the opposite effect of removing leaves. When coils are shortened they become stiffer as (in laymans terms) there is less material to absorb impact...removing leaves makes the spring packs softer = sloppy. Oh yeah, this photo brings one more lowering-block disadvantage to mind...ground clearance issues. The springs hang low and speed bumps and potholes can cause problems.
my springs are not below the scrub line, and none of the leaves are removed. havent hit nothin..and never will..spring rate goes up with coils when you take length out..dont take too much..it acctually improved the ride and handeling of my car..you dont want nothing to hang below the line of your wheels as if the tire was flat..than you would be hitting shtuff..I have driven this car in Michigan..we have some of the worse roads..and plenty of speed bumps..No problemo.
plus if you lower a car you have to drive it like its lowered..not out there thinking you have a jeep or something to ralley with
FWIW I ended that post I referenced earlier unsure of how the car would ride. After 1000 miles or so I am happy to report it rides great. Keep in mind everyone's springs are different and I do have air shocks on the car. With the trunk full of stuff and 60lbs in the air shocks it rode great the 200+ miles each way to Dayton and back last weekend.
i made some for my car, but i wouldnt recommend it, 15" rims it puts the car below scrubline and its kinda dangerous if you get a blowout cause your u-bolts will hit ground before the wheel does.but mine is a sedan delivery, and i believe the have 1 more leaf than the rest of the 53's. im gonna get lower springs eventually though and if you still want the block ill give em' to ya when i make the change
good point CGR..im also running a set of air shocks,,so if i need to bump them a bit 'cause im running a heavy load, or deflate them 'cause its just me..its dooooable. and im going to let it be known again..nothin on my car is below scrub line.! CGR how low did you finnaly go?
I have posies and 3" blocks and let me tell ya, 500 miles of missouri roads have me wishing for a c-notch and bags. Megan, it was good to meet ya.
The blocks are 4". So far, so good With 4" blocks and stock height in the front it looks like this... I don't know if there any roads worse than Chicago and Detroit, man are there some humps, bumps and craters on 80! Nice to finally meet you too.
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