So I was just about to put in my '55 chevy rear until I noticed I got the wrong bushing and was left with no front spring bushings. While I was fuming I noticed that without the pivot type connection that the original axle had, I am losing quite a bit of integrated loweing. It seems I am going to have to buy huge lowering blocks just to get it 2". I know there are plenty of rockstars out there that have done this. What are your suggestions? De-arch the springs?, big**** lowering blocks? Must be cheap...air-bags are outta my league and way too spiffy for this pile of*****.
Rev, all i did on my '53 was use 3" blocks. granted, i have the stock rear and closed drive line.. from what i'v been told,3" is about the most you can go with a torque tube set up with out creating angle probs. you can go a little more if you put a spacer under the trans to keep things a little more equal. If your running the '55 rear, you could either de-arch the springs, or use blocks, or a little of both. I have a friend that has a '49 that's running an open rear with small blocks and de-arched springs.. Rat...
I kind of went the gold chain route. I also changed my rearend, and ordered lowered leaf springs. Dropped it about 4 inches and rides better than stock. Springs are from a place called Posies. They are called "super slide" springs. Cost about 350 delivered, with new shackles and bushings too.
I****ume you went to the wider springs right hillbilly? I still have the narrow '54 style. I know it's not great, but i'm trying not to put too much money in this thing just yet. It just appears that with the original linkage it was "lowered" about an inch normally. Now I have to compensate for that plus however much I wanted it lowered in the first place. Do you have any pictures of yours lowered 4 inches?
Make your own lowering blocks. I did. I got all the saddles, u-bolts and plates from Croft Trailer supply for less than $30. The lowering blocks cost me less than $10 at the Metal supply shop. I got them from the scrap bin. r
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