Hi all, Yes I did my searches, but can not find an answer for my question. Also I am not sure, if it is a stupid question, at all. Ok here is the issue. I tried to lower my 1936 Ford by taking out the no.2 leaf spring of my front axle.( Yes I got bend steering arms, lower superbell and so on) It softens the car a little and brought perhaps 5mm. Now that I got to loosen my wishbones to get my T5 transmission out and be waiting for the one with the longer OD, I let my car sit on the wheels instead of the lifter. Looking to the car, now, the car sits much lower (about half an inch lower). That is the stance which I tried to reach by taking out the leaf spring. The question now: Are the loosen wishbones now respobsible for the lowering? The wishbones are adjustable with threads... Thanks for any advice or hint..
Sounds like you have split wishbones. If the back ends are unhooked and just hanging in mid air, or jammed up against the frame, I can see that being a different position than when all bolted together. Sure, it could make the car sit different. But I wouldn't recommend driving it like that. You could possibly de-arch the spring to make it flatter. It wouldn't effect the weight-holding capacity, just make it flatter. Lots of threads on the HAMB that show how it's done with a common H press.
I'm ***uming that the bones while split run in to a plate that bolts to or is part of the crossmember under the transmission. It may be that your axle is tilted enough to let the car drop with the bones off at and angle or they may have been in a bind causing the shackles or spring to bind and not let the spring relax as far as it does now.
Hey all, Thank you for all the input. Be sure I will not drive the Coupe without wishbones. But you are right I have to bring in some force to bring the wishbones in the position were they are mount. They are connected to the Crossmember plate. I have to push them to the middle of the car to bring the screws in. So taken out a other leaf will not help at all? You can see the plate on photo and the cars front in the mounted position. Would like to go littler lower.
The spring forward front end when split often needs the spring perches heated,and bent so the spring,and shackles fit.When you move the back ends outward from stock the perches move inward.Remember when you turn the rod ends in,or out to mount to the plate you want to end up with 7 degrees of lean back on the top of the axle called Caster so it steers well.If you only dwell on getting it all bolted back together,and don't check this caster you may find you need to steer 100 percent of the time to keep control.
As @irishsteve said set the caster at 7 degrees then decide where to mount the radius rods, though where they are looks stout. Also when the rods are split it (presuming you are using 36 rods) it changes the angle at the front for the spring perch ,so that may be why you need force to mount the rods.Some heat and a big bar may be needed to square up the spring perch to the axle.
If that is a Ch***is Engineering trans/split wish bone mount I don’t think any of the geometry or spring mount location changes.
When you disturb a stock leaf pack by taking out leafs sometimes it takes a while to settle, could be where you gained more than you thought . be careful lowering those cars too much that way as the wish bones will start banging the frame on bumps
Hi all, Thanks for all the input. I took my transmission in the Coupe yesterday evening. Some small things to connect and bolt on for later today. I will let you how it came out than. Have a good one!
Hi together, The car is sitting as before. Not lower... :-( The wishbones need really some force to bring them in the position....
The wish bones should have some resistance to pull them together as you are stretching the spring to get them there.
I would definitely look at the angle of the front of the ‘bones in relation to the spring shackles - if they are not square( parallel) to each other- the spring / shackle ***embly will bind up and not allow the spring to settle
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