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Lukes RAT ROD Progress pics.....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LUKESTER, Mar 4, 2004.

  1. LUKESTER
    Joined: Aug 16, 2002
    Posts: 425

    LUKESTER
    Member

    Been working on the 35 chevy truck pretty hard lately. I got the floor 75% done. Its 3003 aluminum and will have black oxide ****on head 8-32s (that'll match the ones in the dash) holding it down. The tunnel is still screwing with me, so I gotta figure somethin' cool out for that.... LUKESTER
     

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  2. Very nice.....
     
  3. Dat Dirty Rat
    Joined: Jan 15, 2003
    Posts: 3,505

    Dat Dirty Rat
    Member

    Very nice metal work holmes!!...Dirty
     
  4. LUKESTER
    Joined: Aug 16, 2002
    Posts: 425

    LUKESTER
    Member

    then, my beautiful wife Valerie did a sweet job on the trucks interior..... and made it a pair of these seat cushions. I also Installed seat belts. The p*** side is a WW2 surplus aircraft belt and the drivers side will get a CURRENT SFI Simpson belt if you can guess why I need that........... LUKE
     

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  5. Radshit
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 1,420

    Radshit
    Member

    What are you using to screw the 8-32's in? ...Nutserts? or did you drill and tap the metal beneath???


    Just wondering...nice work !
     
  6. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,722

    Dirty Dug
    Member

    Looks like your hard work is paying off, that is great. I'm looking forward to seeing the tunnel.
     
  7. Love your work! Keep it coming.
     
  8. LUKESTER
    Joined: Aug 16, 2002
    Posts: 425

    LUKESTER
    Member

    While I was figuring out the floor plan, I decided It was time to work on the rust out on the top of the drivers side door, so I took a big piece of the skin from another door, that I stole the skeleton out of and patched it in. WHY DOES **** rust out in the MOST obvious spots?????? LUKE
     

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  9. LUKESTER
    Joined: Aug 16, 2002
    Posts: 425

    LUKESTER
    Member

    so with some heating, hammering and grinding I almost got the door done, you can see that the super pitted area is the "NEW piece" I still have to do a little "tuning" on the bodyline to make it look good in BARE metal.....

    as for the floor.... I am using nutserts, DZUS, and locknuts on the floor. Nutserts in the tubing, dzus to hold down the tunnel and locknuts anywhere else..... LUKESTER
     

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  10. Ryan
    Joined: Jan 2, 1995
    Posts: 22,819

    Ryan
    ADMINISTRATOR
    Staff Member

    That truck is awesome... I love it, but NHRA won't p*** a car that has actual belt webbing p***ing through sheet metal (i.e. your seat)... Might as well put a vintage belt there too and call it finished! [​IMG]
     
  11. LUKESTER
    Joined: Aug 16, 2002
    Posts: 425

    LUKESTER
    Member

    I plan on taking some 1/2 " alum tubing and slicing it, bending and welding to go around the holes to round em off. I am still worried about tech though, OUR local track has a rule that everything that runs there has to be painted??????? LUKE
     
  12. I bet they don't say HOW MUCH has to be painted though...... [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Love seeing the progress pics Lukester. Very cool....man, I'd love to see that in the flesh! [​IMG]
     
  13. dondanno
    Joined: Mar 20, 2003
    Posts: 679

    dondanno
    Member

    What if the paint is transparent like oh I dont know Clear coat? Looks good man...Danny
     
  14. momentumfoto
    Joined: Jan 9, 2004
    Posts: 626

    momentumfoto
    Member
    from Yes

    Damn man.. screw them at the track... they should just let you run it like that. Paint would ruin the feel of that truck for sure.... damn them *****es!
     
  15. Mojo
    Joined: Jul 23, 2002
    Posts: 1,875

    Mojo
    Member

    beautiful metalwork! I really appreciate "in the steel" progress pics!
     
  16. WOW!! Nice work!
     
  17. 1LOWCHIEF
    Joined: Dec 2, 2003
    Posts: 432

    1LOWCHIEF
    Member

    *****in!!!


    I have to say though, those have to be some of the BEEFIEST seat brackets/runners/supports I have seen in a long time!!



    What, are those things 2 inches thick or what? They look killer though!
     

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  18. kyle paul
    Joined: Oct 31, 2003
    Posts: 817

    kyle paul
    Member
    from sac

    i luckster i have 1 ww2 selt belt also .. i need 1 more but so do you and i dont plan on runnin mine til i find something cool to ru8n it on .do you want another are do you have to use a simpson to be safe to race.the one you have is probaly nicer then mine.kyle
     
  19. Skate Fink
    Joined: Jul 31, 2001
    Posts: 3,472

    Skate Fink
    Member Emeritus

    ......WAY too nice to be called a "Rat Rod!!" [​IMG]
     
  20. tinyelvis
    Joined: Jun 11, 2001
    Posts: 505

    tinyelvis
    Member

    Hey why don't you chop a moon tank in half (long ways) and use part of that as your hump.. your shift lever could come through the tank filler hole.. anyway just an idear. Great craftsmanship on that car.. I would love to be able to weld like that. My welds come out like cottage cheese.

    [​IMG]

    TinyE
     
  21. Luke that way too nice to be a rat rod. very nice work..Keep us posted when you take that to your track..
     
  22. KCsledz
    Joined: Jun 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,333

    KCsledz
    Member

    Your truck is looking awesome! Those seats are really incredible with the EXTRA-BEEFY™ brackets. Nice job so far!
     
  23. Dreamweaver
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,025

    Dreamweaver
    Member

    Truck is looking good as usual!

    I noticed those seat brackets too, love the holey look. Are they billet or sheetmetal?
     
  24. superbell
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 349

    superbell
    Member

    Looks great Lukster, I have always liked a car BETTER when its in bare steel. Theres nothing to hide, by the way weren't you the guy that bought the Willys project a while back? How is that coming along? Rick
     
  25. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,067

    Dirk35
    Member

    WOW, Thats awesome work Luke!

    Heres how I did my tunnel in the 35. But I used 14ga and welded the two peices together.

    You have those lips that come up from your floor panels. Looks to me that all youll need to do is make a round peice on the slip roller(making the long tunnel section), and then crank one side of the roller down to make the cone shaped peice. Hammer and dolly a lip in betwen the two peices (I just ****ed mine together and welded, dressed the weld and seam sealed) so you can fasten them together. Then you could Dzus fasten the two peice tunnel the the lips that come up from your floor boards.

    What your not seeing on my tunnel, is that I bent a lip on the two tunnel peices on the brake, and bent a lip on the recessed firewall part in a vise, and the floor panels are just flat sheet resting in there on that picture.

    I wish I wouldve rolled a couple of beads in them, cause I have a very little bit of "oil canning" on the floors of my truck.

    Oh yeah, after more fit of seats, I added a cut out section in the floor for my right foot, ****ing the floor up to 3/4 inch from the ******. That gave me an extra 2 inches for my feet, and is where the go pedal sits.

    [​IMG]

     
  26. Plowboy
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 4,282

    Plowboy
    Member

    Looking good!

    The reason that spot rusted out is because the stockers had a chunk of rubber in there for a window s****er that angled down into the wood. Once the water ran down the window it hit the rubber and was channeled right to the wood which soaked it up and held it right there next to the door skin. Not one of Chevy's better ideas (like a cab made out of wood was!).

    I think I have found a remedy for mine.
     
  27. Max Gearhead
    Joined: Oct 16, 2002
    Posts: 7,855

    Max Gearhead
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Excellent work Luke! Max
     

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