Hot Rods m23 muncie shifting problem

Just reach into your drill index (box) and get the 1/4" bit. Now, insert the bit SMOOTH SHANK into the indexing hole. Now adjust, per @bobss396.
I've found that drill bits are as close to the designated 'number' (size) as one is likely to come up with. The drill bit mics to .250". That's 1/4 of an inch.
(works here in A****er, 100 miles from Gilroy!)

 

The problem is you can't feel the gears or shift levers.
The entire thing, and it working properly is based off of neutral.
When in 1st gear, 3-4 & R are in neutral and 2nd is on deck.
When going from 2nd to 3rd EVERYTHING is in neutral and shifter is adjusted.
When in 3rd gear 1-2 &R are in neutral and 4th is on deck.
If any of the 6 neutral positions is off of where neutral really is you'll have some kind of troubles.

 

I have so much **** to sift through in my shop, I use whatever comes up first, drill blanks, raw stock even a phillips screwdriver shank is usually close, but I measure them first to make sure.
The idea of adjusting the shifter is to make sure you have a good neutral-gate between any given set of gears. The shifter is new, transmission too which only leaves one thing.... adjustment. Steel bushings are the ticket, the nylon ones may have enough give in them to throw off the adjustment ONE turn.

 

Sadly in today's world "new" only means that it hasn't yet proven itself.
New no longer means - good and without defects, it used to but not anymore.

 

Yep, you can have a rollaway filled with the best tools but if you don't have that little 1/4" gage to adjust the neutral gate you're not going anywhere fast.

 

So- I"M trying to help out here, and gain some smarts also...... be patient plz.......
So- when in 2nd, and going for 3rd- I've felt that (with my hand's on it, and rowing through the gears, at a parked position), when it come's up from 2nd, the shifter seem's to/does find neutral/come out of 2'nd, and "shift's" to the right a hair. Once it does that, 3rd is no problem, as 4th.......
I think ( you know what that means), that this "shifting" part to the right is the issue- maybe....... Possibly just more adjustments to dial in. Per Vicky's post's/pic's- yes= should be as drawn, but not the case as of now.....
Hell- I don't even own a 4 gear, but want to learn/figure this **** out.

 

I'm not clear on whether or not he adjusted the shifter properly yet. It absolutely must be done with a neutral pin, and then make sure the stops are backed off, then adjust the rods, and then set the stops.

 

The new shifter weeds out a lot of potential problems if it is installed right. Easy to mix up a lever or have one clocked or flipped the wrong way. Not that I have ever done that... I'm running a '78 vintage Comp Plus on my M20 and I flipped a lever around when I installed it on my M20 a couple of years back.

 

After you get the 1/4 pin to slip in and out with NO drag whatsoever, then move the shift handle left and right across the neutral gate. Observe that the shifter arms do not move in the slightest amount. Next , you can remove the shift arms from the side cover in neutral , with gauge pin in place. Notice the arms go right back on the slots with ease . Now re-check your shift pin for a slip fit again. As mentioned already, this would be with solid bushings and Hurst type spring clips installed.
If all this checks out , your problem is not in the shifter.

 

This is why I give the lugs 1 turn either way and see how the levers fit back onto the side cover. The acid test as you describe is to see how the pin fits back after everything is in place and tight.