I want to rebuild my inline engine. The head needed extra work, so it's at a shop now. I think I can assemble the rest of it myself. The engine was in unknown condition, so I want some work done by a machine shop, but what necessary or at least should be done while it's there? I know I want it cleaned and Magnafluxed. Maybe machined to upgrade the rear seal. What else? I want a reliable engine for a custom, not a race car. Check and hone the cylinder bores? I'm sure I can hone them, but while it's there have a pro do it? Check the deck for flatness? Line bore? Polish the crank journals?
All of those things you mentioned, and then some. If you are unable to make the measurements to determine what needs to be machined, then I would start by asking the machine shop to do a complete inspection, take the appropriate measurements, and report back to you on what needs to be machined along with a plan to bring the engine back within factory specs (or upgraded specs if wanted). Make sure they show you the actual measurements and what they should be. Do not allow them to do any work beyond cleaning and inspection without them telling you exactly what needs to be done. There is no sense in starting to cut on an unsalvageable core.
Accurate measurement of everything should be the 1st step. This will allow you know what you have and how much will need to be done to make it serviceable. As a relative newcomer to the process, I would suggest you have the shop handle all of the cylinder prep.
Not sure if many shops do it much since I do it myself but wanted to mention that chasing the threads is something to consider. If you prefer to diy ARP makes thread chasers, I know some say to use taps but I've always herd that they are too sharp and can damage good threads if your not very careful.
Not that you need my advice, but...maybe you could use hearing it. I'm going to add what Boot77 missed. Post a picture. Unless your horse and buggy against modern, add some details. Why? Like What. And if you figured that out on your own, what are you asking, how much you should feel comfortable spending at the shop? How unknown? Pulled from a greasy old grain truck, or salvaged from a back 40 car buried in the weeds , brush, and saplings. Big difference in what could be required. My New Years resolution is to help the lazy find direction. That's right, I said lazy. Lazy, lazy, lazy. Because instead of asking us what you need, it should be the machine shop and you asking why you need it. That's some sound advice right there. Money saving tips. Seems we both liked it, and maybe he was just being funny posting it, but there is a food chain don't kid yourself. And knowing what does what and when it's done can be a way to save or spend extra. Like CCing the heads. I read that in the not so distant future, books will be lost to the online learning that is so easily and more readily available. Complete with links to buy products, influence decision and make the masses more stupid. Build Your First Engine (motortrend.com) Read, learn and discover.
I tell my machine shop guy to do his thing. He knows more than I do Clean it, check it, measure it Then we make decisions.
Sage advice here. From my experience, shops tend to have a standard rebuild service plan. Then cafeteria style add-ons. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
I’m my engine guy…not sure if that’s good or bad. He (we?) starts by cleaning and measuring everything to see where it’s at. Proceed to appropriate machining and assemble. Doesn’t really matter what engine. For what it’s worth unless it’s an all out race engine or you are switching main caps there is generally very little need to align bore a block.
Most engines I do (street engines) require boring or simply honing and I generally clean up the deck surface of the block and heads, mostly because I can. I touch up the valves and seats, put guides in if needed and out the door it goes. The 318 I did for the barracuda received less of those steps…
I’ll clean, disassemble and measure. If machine works is needed I tell my guy to do his thing. My previous advice for the guy that doesn’t do that. Growing up, we honed cyls, polished cranks (Emory cloth and WD40) and lapped valves. Cleaned the casting with a rose bud after a diesel fuel scrubbing Occasionally a crank or block was dropped off at the machine shop.
Not all of us have the knowledge to know the questions to ask. By posting here, I figure you have the passion to learn. Most of us only do a few engines in a lifetime. We need to rely on real craftsmen to help us, and learn a bit along the way with each one. A good machine shop will clean and measure, and give you some options on what needs doing. They will explain the processes you don’t understand in simple terms. A bad machine shop will rob you blind. Worse, you will walk out each visit feeling like a fool as they belittle your knowledge. If it was mine, I’d post here my location, and ask for recommendations for a good local shop. Use that shop, see what options match your budget, and learn a little. Learn some more on the next one too. I recently had a Powerglide done by a top-end shop. Price was reasonable. I was asking them to modify the box to suit a 200hp inline six. They normally work on 2000hp monster motors. They made me feel valued every time I asked the dumb questions. Real craftsmen. Cheers, Harv
I will strip the engines down myself. Mark everything and look it all over. On my last 350 build, I borrowed a dial bore gauge to make sure the block held no surprises. The only things I retained were the block and crank.. and the crank snout bolt.
The Jalopy Journal
