Technical Machining down the flywheel on a 21 stud flathead

I've done some searching, but haven't found what I'm looking for.
I have a '37 Flathead that I'm currently rebuilding. I'm keeping the stock flywheel, just trying to lighten it up a bit. I have already machined the lip on it down to the clutch surface, and that has removed 8 lbs. so far. I would like to get maybe another 6 lbs. out of it.
I haven't really planned out where I can remove more material yet, so I thought I'd ask if anyone here has done it or had it done and has photos of where more material was removed.
I was thinking I could taper the edge, or machine some more off the edge, leaving a large radius if that makes sense.

 

Taper it from the clutch surface (edge) to the major OD.

 

Here ya go. You should be cutting down the crank side.

 

This makes sense.^^^^^

 

This is my next step, there is still a lot of mass where the lip was, so Ill take down that outer mass a bit.

 

In case anyone is interested, I made my tapered cut on the flywheel today,and got another 4 lbs off.
A total of 12 lbs off the flywheel.

 

Good job cretin! What lathe did you use. I'm wondering if I can do mine on my brake lathe. Any side pictures? Thanks.
Johnny

 

Not commonly done but one could drill it like a disc brake.

I have actually seen them gouged out on the back side. let me see if I can find a pic.

Here is a link to one being lightened while I look around.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1953-flathead-8rt-heads-flywheel-questions.954625/

Well I didn't find what I was looking for, there was a thread on here a few years back with a seriously lightened flathead fly wheel or two. I did find a pic of some Harley flywheels lightened about as much as I have ever seen and I have seen some seriously shaved wheels in my time.

Anyway sorry bout that.

 

This is an 8BA flywheel, I took 9lbs off of the crank side. I have a mandrel that works well in a large lathe.

 

Marty thanks.

 

Thanks Johnny. I just used this Rutland tool lathe that we have at the shop.



This is the best photo I have of it set up. I had to remove the section of the bed right under the chuck in order for the flywheel to fit on the lathe.



I don't have a photo of the side of the flywheel, and I've already dropped it off at my machinist to be resurfaced and balanced, but I can post a photo of it once I get it back.

 

Hey, thanks all of you...porknbeaner, Marty Strode, cretin! That all helps a lot. I gave up on lightening my model A flywheel because the machine shop wanted $400 to do it. (Not in my budget) But I'll 're think it for the next one!
Thanks again, Johnny

 

I'm thinking that very little or no balance holes. Once you machine all surfaces concentric and true the material has a uniform density, that equals balance. That's what I've found on all the cast flywheels I've done. All have had balance holes drilled in when I started, and they all were wobbly or non concentric before machining. Let us know.

 

Hey Johnny, I ran by my machinists place today, so I snapped a side photo for you.

 

That's what my machinist thinks as well. He thinks we are only going to need to resurface it.

 

Hey thanks cretin! That's what I thought it would look like, but it's helpful to have the "visual aid"! I'm gonna follow your lead and cut one down sometime.
Thanks again for the follow up.
Johnny