Thanks d2, Wakin up slow here Boss. For some reason this thread has seemed like a joke from the beginning and, I guess, it is me that is not getting it after all. I'll pick up the pace.
With one of those Ford solenoids next to a battery in the trunk the alternator/generator charging cable would have to run all the way back there, instead of just joining the main +ve battery cable at the starter, yes? So there would actually be more risk of electrical fire, as the main cable would still be carrying the same high current load during starting, but wouldn't be there for the tens of amps from the charger?
I'm not so sure the Ford starter solenoid is really a good fix for a GM starter, as it simply adds one more component to the system. The GM solenoid is still functional, but doesn't get power at the battery terminal until the Ford solenoid is energized, and then in turn energizes the GM solenoid in the same fashion it was before, but with another item in series. Unless they come up with a way to use the Ford solenoid, and eliminate the plunger and solenoid on the stock starter, I can't see any reason to think it's an improvement. If heat soak is an issue with a GM solenoid, you haven't isolated the GM solenoid to eliminate heat soak with MAD's system. The only thing you've changed is to have the length of the ignition start signal shortened, but at the same time routed it to the Ford relay. If the Ford relay is mounted in the trunk, then you've effectively cancelled out any gain by routing the start signal wire even farther than GM did originally. If it's under the hood, then you may have slightly shortened the length, but I doubt it would be enough to make a difference. Most voltage loss is from resistance, and the more connections a system has, the more resistance it will have at each connection. So if you have a connector at each end, and a few splice blocks, you've added measureable resistance. Since GM uses several splice blocks at various locations, it would be better to remove them, splice and solder the wires, than to swap to a Ford relay. And also cheaper, and less complicated too! Using relays on heavy current draws reduces the need for heavy duty switches, and large wires to high current draw components. I like the idea of relays, as they also reduce the heavy wiring from being routed up to the dash to switches, and lessen the possibility of component failures. This just isn't a case where it's needed.
Ok y’all, my ‘59 GMC (383 sbc, TH400, perm magnet starter) has been plagued with starting problems. I recently installed a Ford solenoid near the battery. Using 2awg battery cables, battery to solenoid & solenoid to starter post on the opposite solenoid post. Start switch to S o n Ford solenoid, jump wire from solenoid post on starter to battery cable post on starter. The thing cranks over great now, but the starter wants to keep spinning after it starts. What am I missing here?
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