Magnum Axle & Dropped Steering Arm Problem

Hey man.. you spindles are fine, but your axle is upside down... you bought a 4" raised axle.

 

Hahahaha......


JOE

 

Well . . . maybe.

Goes around corners like a sumbitch....

 

559-877-4630

 

Whoa, my mistake for interpreting the post incorrectly. I'm assuming that the turning radius is hampered by the tie rod hitting the bottom of the radius rod.

Some how I was under the impression that this was on a 5" axle not 4", Sorry I'll just have to read slower.. I'd still like to see where the spindle and axle contact and what maximum turning angle is generated before contact. With no steering hook up the spindles can rotate far greater than the steering box would allow or ever be done on the sharpest turn.

In any case grinding on a steering arm is not recommended and all these parts have been available way to long for major problems to be encountered on store bought stuff.

Most issues with aftermarket steering arm to axle interference have been stock axles that have been incorrectly stretched and dropped.

 

Magnum Axle Company Phone number is 559-877-4630.

 

Take a chill pill and check your muffler bearings?


I understand you're frustrated. However, at a first glance they really do look upside down. Are you SURE they aren't upside down? hahah just kidding ya!

 

You guys are cracking me up now.

Wanna see something that really looks upside down? Put a pair on upside down. That really looks screwed up.

Dick, I don't have a camera handy here tonight so I can't post pics but I'm running into problems after I turn the end of the spindle only 1/4". The "loop" itself on the arms is hitting the axle. I can't even turn it far enough for the dropped arm to ever start giving trouble. The arms are dropped enough to clear the tie rod but the "loop" that goes around the lower kingpin boss is too deep.

I'm guessing the Magnum arms are shallower through the "loop". The Chassis Engineering arms would eliminate any possibility of interference. Since I have a Magnum axle it probably makes sense to buy Magnum arms though.

Thanks for the number for Magnum guys. I'll get a pair on the way tomorrow.

JH

 

hahahahah...i had a vision of you heading out in to the garage to turn the spindles over while mumbling under your breath about how stupid those HAMBRs are that told you the spindles are upside down.....

"dumb people....why can't they just give me the answer i want!?"

let us know when you try the magnums......i'm curious

 

Try the Chassis Engineering Inc steering arms - they don't use a "loop" - they're forged & bolt through:

http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/page70.html

Look at the bottom right pic...

 

OK Harrison listen to a foreign man....me !!!had it on my '40
With a Magnum axle you HAVE to use CE steering arms (35-48) .
Just bolt on ...no grinding .
Done with it.
I'm sure Eric(Riley-Auto) carries them.
Michael

 

Dang harrison, pretty soon you'll build one of those frames with the springs on the top side.....

kevin, how in world did you remember that!?

 

Now its time to identify parts. The CE axle has a slightly tighter bend than the Super Bell or Magnum. With the spindle positioned straight take a measurement from the machined surface where the steering arm bolts on the spindle and check the distance to the axle bend, this measurement should be about 3" on a Super Bell. The loop thickness from the face to the outside diameter of a steering arm= Magnum is 2.25" and Super Bell arms is 2.35". This gives you plenty of clearance.

Because CE axles have a tighter radius bend, Magnum or Super Bell arms are tight to the axle thus the reason for the CE thrubolt design of the steering arms for more clearance.

Now check the perch distance of your axle, CE axles have a perch distance of 35" and new CE axles are not labeled. If you have a perch distance of 35" its a CE axle, if it has a perch distance of 36 3/8, 38 1/2 or 40 5/8" its a Magnum axle if it measures 36 1/2" its a Super Bell. The measurement will determine which Mfgs axle you have and what arms to use.

The only other time I have encountered this problem is when an individual attempted to install a Low buck brake kit plate on the outer side of the spindle.

 

It's always nice to ask questions before you buy a part, so here's me playing devil's advocate. I am assuming you are gonna use the '39 brakes.

"Will the CE arms fit with the Ford backing plates?"

I think the spirit of Henry Ford is cursing you for not just dropping his original parts. First you go replacing his forged axle with some cast part, then you HACKSAW his arms off. You deserve everything you're getting

 

Jim- let me know when you get it sorted and need to return anything. Talk to your buddy too and make sure he knows whay's up as well. Thanks Jim

 

chassis eng. arms are designed to work with disk brakes,and will not clear the backing plates.

before you order parts talk to someone who has built cars with the parts you want to use.

-danny

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

I had spoken with a few folks here on what I wanted to do & how to go about it. I knew what I needed going in. My axle came from JimA & the rest of it came from Eric at Riley Automotive. I didn't think to mention what kind of arms I needed when I spoke with Eric. That was my fault & no one else's. I'll save these arms for my '32.

JimA & Eric were both great to work with &, together, saved me about $120 on my parts.

Grimlok, how did you remember that post? Maybe I'm your hero & you save all my posts?

JH

 

it funny , all this crazy talk of having to modify parts to fit your old car........ ... i do know that the gold speedway arms needed some clearancing....the newer grey arms seem to fit a little better....but they will fit with drums.....or disks.....but don't carry the big name brand label.....let me know if you have any interference with drag links and wishbones.....brandon

and for the record.....he must have the spindles on the wrong sides...... jk

 

I believe only the "milled" arms are only for disk brakes. I've used their arms on two drum brake cars with no problems. I'm sure you can come up with a backing plate/spindle combo that will cause problems though.

I've seen superbell arms strip out - not a good place for a loose part. I like the idea of through-bolts.