ok......now that I got my slant six and it is set in the car how do I make my own motor mounts????????I am putting the slant six in a 1950 dodge buisness coupe.....the the l/h hand side is really close to the steering gear box gut there is room...........I have just never built my own motor mounts before............would like to get some advice...............thanks......
If possible, it is always preferable to use factory mounts as part of your new mounts. They are engineered to fit and to absorb vibrations, plus you can replace them at any auto parts store when the time comes. But, if you are not able to use them what you have to do is take one side at a time and visualize what it would take to bridge the gap between the motor and the frame rail or crossmember on that side. It might take making a plate to bolt to the block and then some sort of arm going outwards, with a rubber insulator somewhere in that component. Then you would do the same thing on the other side of the car. I could be wrong, but I think the slant 6's required some special mountings to dampen out vibrations. What did the original mounts look like ? I know Tex Smith made some mounts in his XR 6 project, but I can't remember what they looked lile. Don
Read some more threads on this subject and look at google images. I make sure engine is centered, carb pad is level front to rear, side to side, clearence for fan blade/ radiator in front, steering shaft and box clearence. I use paper, cardboard templates to get the look and style I want. I use 3/16" plate, I think 1/4" looks a little clunky. I use Chassis Engineering ford rubber biscuit mounts, higher quality than Speedway. Tack! It all in place, double check everything. I usually do not fully weld till later in the build, just in case. Good luck.
The engine does not need to be perfectly centered. There are plenty of cars with the engine slightly off set for clearance purposes.
It DOES however need to be pointed straight back along the frame. Get the engine/trans package located where you want it, then measure from the edge of the balancer to each frame rail. It doesn't matter what the measurement is, only the difference from side to side. Do the same at the trans output shaft, and move things around until you have the same DIFFERENCE front and rear. Buy a set of factory mounts (or use the old ones if they're still in good shape), so you only have to worry about the towers to set the mounts on. If they have through bolts Make the lower yokes out of 3/16 or heavier material. "Old" style mounts used a plate to bear the engine weight, so basically you need a box (rect. tube?) with holes for the alignment stud and retaining stud. Then use plates in a pyramid shape to connect to the frame rails. MOST importantly, clean the frame down to bare metal at least 1" to either side of any spot you're going to weld to. Don't get "go fever", mock it all up and then realize that you're welding to dirty metal...
yea, big block darts come to mind. They are off by about 2" give or take. I think in pictures so for me it is a different process than most. If you are spatially challenged get your engine propped up about where you think it should be. Like Don said try and use a factory mount in there if you can. Now l think real hard and try and visualize what you think will work, maybe get some cardboard and tape it in there the way you think it should go then modify to suite.
There's no 1 right way to make engine mounts. Lots of different, creative, and effective ways to make them which are functional and aesthetically pleasing. I personally always offset the engine about 3/4" to the passenger side to compensate for the driver, since I'm usually the only one in the car. Dunno if it's effective or not, but it's certainly never caused me an issue
first off...............thanks for all the advice and pictures.they are beyond helpful.........here are a pics of the space issues........and man am I gonna have to make a custom exhaust.....
All mopar cars from 62 on have the engine and trans offset to the passenger's side 1.5 inches, not just big block a-bodies.
For what it's worth a buddy and I put a slant six and three speed stick into a 1950 Dodge Coronet and it was a HOOT to drive!! It definitely had to be offset to the passenger side but it worked out great! See all pictures and read about some adventures here: http://waywardgarage.com/category/pastcars/gregs50dodge/
Before you get too far along, make sure there's room for the fan/radiator to clear. Also it's a good idea to have the exhaust on the engine when you're figuring out where to put it. It's easier to move the whole thing now, than to try to make a pipe bend 90 degrees in two inches. And you might want to consider cutting the firewall so you can scoot the engine back some if needed for fan clearance.
thanks did not think of that..........well I was walking around looking in my carport at 2am and found a tow bar I bought from harbor frieght........hmmmm.....possiable frame mounts?????I think yes
I like factory style mounts, the big rubber pads, rather than the through bolt type. I was told a long time ago that these were preferable and since building my hot rod I understand. The bolt doesn't support the engine. The mount does. All the bolt does is keep the mount in place. If you bust something, nothing really goes anywhere. It also makes mock ups really easy. My engine has been in and out so many times and a lot of the time I didn't even have to turn a spanner because the engine sits there happily without any kind of fastener. I know what I like. You do it how you like.
I start by situating the engine in the chassis, then getting it positioned as I want it. If possible I block it underneath, and get the engine hoist out of the way, but if not I leave it hanging on the hoist. Once it's positioned I get out the scissors, tape, cardboard, and start mocking up mounts from stiff cardboard. Once they look close I fit them on the factory motor mounts and tape them together at he edges. I also tape them to the frame where I want them to be connected to hold them in position. After I think I've got what I want I cut all the tape to let my pattern lay flat, and then just start tracing pieces on my metal. I don't fully weld them until I test fit, so just tack weld it together and then test fit. After it looks like I've got it right I weld them up solid and do one more test fit. Then it's just welding them into the car or bolting them in. If I want a full width crossmember to span the frame rails I bend one up from 1/2" emt tubing to check for clearances. After I get the width and clearances down I build a larger one from whatever round or box tubing I want to use.
Question #1: Steel? Is this a trick question? lol Question #2: Nope, 1977 Dodge Ass-Pan. On ridiculously tall lowering blocks. Radiator was from the Aspen as well. We had to hack part of the inner fender and heater box? Maybe beat the firewall around the firewall? Been a long time but I'd do it again in a heartbeat! Don't worry about hacking it up, the 1949-1952 Dodges and Plymouth don't carry a whole lot of value, so chop chop buzz buzz weld weld!!
I am all over it.......trying to make things look pretty......going agianst my nature.....functuality first pretty second......love the big labowskie....
I leave the engine on the cherry picker with the trans attached and position the assembly where I want it using jacks. Then tack weld a structure to keep it there, remove the motor, finish weld and paint.
Sweet! Where's the progress pictures? Get to choppin' young man!! That rug really tied the room together......
wow how did i miss this?? oh wait (no computer) hows the room around your oil pan?i only ask 'cause i had to hunt for a Truck only pan for my Hudson swap,stupid steering cross over is right in the bloody way! well as for motor mount ideas i plan on stealing some ideas from this post:: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=619770 i gave up on finding a header for my swap,i think i'm just gonna use 'stock' stuff, Good Luck & keep the pictures coming--chuck
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