I'm fitting a return line into my gas tank, which doesn't presently have a bung for the return. I have never worked on a used tank before, and I have to drill a 1/2" hole in the top of the tank. I have already drained the gas. My tank is 12" x 7" x 40". I built it. 16-gauge steel. It sits on the 7" side. There is a 3/4" tall filler neck on the top. The new hole goes in the top in the opposite end of the tank. My plan is to fill the tank with water to the top of the filler neck (the highest point). Then raise the side of the car with the filler neck just slightly to make sure there is no air pocket on the low end where the hole goes. Then hold my breath while I drill the hole with a step bit. Am I going to blow myself up? Is there a better plan? Any suggestions appreciated! I'm also worried about the drill chips. I can keep a shop vac sucking the chips from the top, but I know there will be some chips fall in. There is a 1-1/2" hole just about 3" away from the new hole for the fuel level gauge, that I can remove and have that 1-1/2" hole for access to vacuum the bottom of the tank in the area of the new hole. Maybe adapt my shop vac hose down to 3/4" and stick it down in there. I thought about surrounding the new hole with rare earth magnets on the outside but can't figure how to remove the magnets without dropping the chips. I'm not crazy about doing this, but after a lot of thought, it is my best bet to get a return line in there. I'm going to use Earls Weldless Return fitting. It is a pretty slick little unit. Part number: 166025ERL. Any words to the wise?
I wonder if there's room in the sending unit flange, to drill the hole and mount the return fitting? I've added returns to a few tanks by doing this, but usually soldering in a piece of tin plated steel line, rather than using the neat fitting you found. I'm considering adding a return line to my old Corvette, so this is a timely post...thanks for the info about the Earls fitting
There is no room to fit a return line into the small hole for the sending unit. I took it out to check. I would still have to whittle on the tank. If I have to do that I might as well drill a hole.
You worry too much. I poked a new filler neck onto my fuel tank. Drained the tank - the electric fuel pump worked great for this. Took the tank to the car wash and washed it out good before cutting in the hole, welded it up. Back to the car wash to wash out all the metal chips. With the sending unit out and the filler neck open and a lot of flipping the tank around, I was confident I got most everything out. Filled the tank with water to check for leaks and everything worked fine.
I don't know about the "worrying too much" part. I have managed to live to the ripe old age of 75 years while working in a dangerous occupation and playing dangerous games after work. In the past, the worrying has saved a lot of grief! Yeah, this would be much easier if I could remove the tank. Without a lot of explanation, if I have to remove the tank to do this, I will abandon the project. I ain't skeered, just cautious!
Remove the tank if possible, it may take some work but its worth it. Fill tank with water, its the fumes that will turn tank into a balloon ( I no first hand ). Glen
@jaw22w , What type of sender ? No room to remove sender , drill 3/8 ID Hole , for 3/8 Od hard line or 5/16 hard line ? 90 , L shape what ever @ top of sender , add nipple , inverted or fitting ? Solder or weld Add few inches in side or to bottom Bend as needed to clear sender arm ?
Use one of those magnets on an antenna like extendable handle, through the sender hole and under where you are drilling to catch the chips.
If removing the tank is nonnegotiable, send us a picture of the sending unit. Actually, pictures of the whole setup. Maybe more eyes on the ball will get the solution you are after.
If you remove the pump, you have hopefully a larger hole to work with. Make a small "cup" that will fit into the hole and a handle (rod) of some sort that you can weld to the side of the cup. Bend the handle different ways until it allows you to position it under where you want to make your new hole, and have someone hold it for you while you drill. Probably better if the handle isn't round or has an end that makes it easy to control so it doesn't slip and dump chips. Make sure that you can maneuver it out in a manner that doesn't dump the chips before you do the actual drilling. Amazon sells some mini-magnets. Some as cheap as $5 for a pack. Put a couple of them in the cup to help hold chips. Thats my best guess...........
If your uneasy about drilling you gas tank take it to your local radiator shop and they can fix you up in no time. HRP
"Local radiator shop". Good luck finding one now a days. With aluminum radiators with plastic tanks all they do is replace them. Almost all of the old radiator shops around here are out of business.
Put some grease on the step bit, like you would a regular drill bit to catch the chips. ive done this with drilling holes and running taps also.
I googled the St Paul area and there are several shops in the area, a phone call might prove they still have someone with the skills to re-core an original radiator. We have an old school radiator shop here in town called Jeralds and I picked up my re-cored copper/brass Walker Radiator yesterday, you make a valid point about shops just swapping out an aluminum radiator in everything but I prefer traditional radiators, they last longer ( If you don't have a accident that put the fan through it) BTW, Jerald told me he re-cores radiators all over the United States, he just finished a radiator for someone in Canada. The copper brass Walker Radiator has been in my 1932 sedan for close to 40 years and I am aware the aluminum radiators are considerably cheaper, but they don't last as long. HRP
Run a hose in there and purge through with nitrogen or CO2 , or any inert welding gas. Keep it running while using a greased up step bit. Anything left in the tank will be caught by the pickup filter or fuel filter.
Just run your car exhaust into the tank. Carbon monoxide is nonflammable. Been done for years. Works good for killing gopher's also.
I have soldered a 5/16 tube to the filler neck for a return line on a couple cars..... Works very well and you can do all the work except for running the hose to the back on the bench..... LynnW
Purge it with CO2 or Argoshield gas. If you can't use the Tank Sender for a return hosetail , You can sometimes use the filler neck an put the return hosetail there. Use a 90° piece of tube and point it towards the tank
Another option.............Cut a bigger hole that allows you access inside the tank for cleaning the debris out. Then make a cover for the new hole that has the needed vent hole adapter in it . That way if you ever need to clean the tank in the future, you already have an access hole.
The Jalopy Journal
