Technical Making Flathead V8 engine mounts for an unboxed '32 with Model-A front crossmember

Now as everyone knows, when you replace a '32 front cross member with a Model-A in order to lower the car, you lose your front motor mounts.
You'll likely be using a later Flathead anyway with block mounted water pumps so you'll have the integrated mounts on the pumps.
I've seen rods with mounts simply welded into the frame but this is a big NO NO. The weight of the engine attempts to twist the side rails placing the lower front cross member rivets under shear stress.
Previously I've covered using 1942-48 Mercury mounts to solve the problem but these are proving hard to find these days.
Over the last couple of days, I've developed these. Starting with two ends cut off a Model-A rear cross member I built these. They've been built to accommodate Houdaille shocks and 1942-48 Ford front brake hose brackets. (Available new from Bob Drake).


So here are the basic components;
A shock support bracket with 7/16 20 nuts welded on the back.
A modified Model-A rear cross member end with a lower support tab welded on and a half moon welded on the end to support the doughnut cup properly.
A curved piece which sits in the front cross member trough and transfers the engine weight onto the front cross member.



Here's the other side already welded up. It's attached to the frame with 3 rivets and of course the two 7/16 20 bolts which attach the front shock. It's attached to the front cross member by 2 rivets as well.



The engine mounts convert the front cross member into a K-member. They also transfer the engine weight directly onto the front cross member and in turn to the front spring.

I'll update soon with pictures of the engine, shocks and brake hose tabs installed.

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Good idea, looks nice and tidy.

 

Almost looks like a good factory design!


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I like it too. But, most guys trim a whole lot off the back edge of the A front crossmember, so that would negate the triangulation leg you made. Now we just need to convince guys to stop butchering the crossmember.

 

Love it too. Timely post for having a '32 frame made for my AV8 this winter. I'm going to use this trick.

Thanks for posting.

 

Very nice design. Thx for sharing.

 

Very nice design and implementation.

However, this part is throwing me: "A modified Model-A rear cross member end with a lower support tab welded on and a half moon welded on the end to support the doughnut cup properly." I see that as the upper right piece in your first picture.
I just can't visualize where that piece is going. Is that welded to the side of the motor mount and is the part that sits in the crossmember trough?

 

The cut off rear cross member end is the large box. It's forward vertical sits in the trough on top of the curved foot piece.

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OH! I'm a dunce. I thought the moon shaped piece you were referring to was the rectangular piece with the curved wedge cut out of it. The top right piece in your first picture. I understand now.

 

Here's some more pictures of the finished design.

This is another picture of the rear crossmember cut off. The one side has been bent in a bit to follow the trough.


Here it is sitting on its trough foot before welding.


Here's the mount with the hole cut into it for the doughnut cup to sit in.


The finished mount viewed from behind.


The finished mounts viewed from the front.


Bill Stipes Houdaille shock mounted with the Bob Drake 42-48 brake hose tab.


Tomorrow I'll start riveting the frame together.

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OK, I've never worked on a Model A on a '32 frame before, so if this question seems like a noob or a dumb ass, I apologize in advance.

Does lowering the engine approximately 2" instead of sitting approx. 2" above the frame rail cause any other issues down the line (like trans. hook up with the K member)? Is this how the engine sat in a Deuce frame from the factory?

 

Not to answer on Edward's behalf, but this is a 32 frame with a model A front crossmember. A and 32 front crossmembers are different.

 

I've actually lifted the engine at the front about an inch. This is necessary because the Model-A front crossmember trough isn't as deep as an original '32 front crossmember. The lower hoses need to clear the trough lip. If you lift it any more you'd twist the rear rubber transmission mount too much.
A stock 32 V8 sits lower.
This does pull the rear of the transmission about 1/8" forward. In this car it doesn't matter. I've installed a Model-A rear crossmember 3/4" further back in order to relocate the rear axle 3/4" further back. This improves the look of the car. It'll need a later torque tube shortening to fit this application.
1932 V8 torque tubes are so rare these days mostly I end up shortening a 33-48 anyway.

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I have my tardel mounts flush with the top rail and it puts some stress on the k member trans. mount. I'm switching to stock mounts for my stock cross member as to not interfere with my shocks.

Nice solution to both my issues here. Thanks Edward. Nice work as always

 

I'm also building an another 32 with stock front crossmember. I've used the stock mounts from Bob Drake. They do need the web grinding down a bit to make clearance for the 59A-B fan belt. The block mounted pumps cause the belt to interfere with the stock 32 mounts.
I had a 32 Fordor once with 59A-B and stock front mounts so the water pump mounts just hung in the air.
At a show someone asked me where my engine mounts were. I told him that with 4 water hoses you didn't need front mounts. Should have seen his face!

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No you were right before. The ends of a Model-A rear crossmember are slightly curved but not enough. I added two very thin moons to the end to make them more curved. Sorry I didn't photograph that stage.

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Thanks . Do you remember how far the pump mounts were below the rails when you used the 32 front style mounts. I want to check my steering box clearence before I go to Bob drake for mounts.

 

If you can wait a couple of weeks i can answer that question. I'm also building a stock 32 framed pickup with 59AB. The engine is going in in about 2 weeks and I'll be fitting the F1 steering.
It'll be covered in "Time for another 32 pickup".

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OK great. Thanks

 

Nice looking work - makes the whole thing look like Henry planned it this way!

 

X2. I was thinking the same thing.

 

I agree, brilliant.

 

I finished riveting the frame today. 50 rivets in total.


Here's a comparison of the Model-A front crossmember compared to an original.


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Here you are. I tried it with and without the extension brackets. I found the extensions lifted the engine too far so removed them. Now the mounts sit directly on the doughnuts. The upper edge of the water pump bracket is flush with the top of the frame rail.



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Thank you so much. Now I can see if I should order the original 32 style mounts if my steering allows it. Even know where to move my tardel hurst style mounts properly if th og ones don't work.

 

That could pass for a factory bracket.
Nice work indeed.
What did the original 32's and 34's use for their front engine brackets?
Anybody got a pic of one?
I recall they may have been just a stamped plate gusset!

 

The mount was integrated into the front crossmember.

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Yes, correct now I remember.
Don't own a 34 chassis anymore and my 32 chassis is repro and wont require a flathead mount as far as I know, unless I have a surprise coming for Christmas that I don't know about...

 

May I humbly suggest that a plate behind the top of the K member will stiffen the frame quite a bit. Most of the deflection is in that weak center upper part of the K member. A plate across those added legs would help a lot.