Here are some photos of my hopped up HF bead roller, and I'm super cheap so bought a used bead roller on Craigslist and cobbled everything else together. It works great for 18g steel. I used a sewing machine pedal to control the speed. Matt in Sacto
You basically need to brace across the back like this but any material you have laying around tube, angle, box will work. This is just a cheap one and works great now. Also wheels in place of the handle makes operating it smoother.
Thanks guys Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
I started digging through that Packard Resto. Oh my Lord that's a project! And he is even making hidden parts identical to factory. So is there a way to curve 90° bends like you would with a shrinker/stretcher without one? It's like a $200 investment, I realize, but I'd like to learn to do it without one Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
That's my project... I've sprouted a few more grey hairs since starting it. For shrinking by hand you can build a tuck-shrinking fork made from line-up punches (cheap and easy to find st Sears). Use the fork to make "tucks", then hammer the tucks flat to shrink the metal. There is info on making those in the Packard build thread. I also posted pics of a set of modified vice grips that can be used to create smaller and repeatable/uniform tucks that will help make a uniform curve. You can stretch metal by simply hammering it on top of a dolly, vice, thick steel plate, etc. Essentially you are "squeezing" the metal outward between the hammer face and the hard backing surface. You can achieve more efficient stretching to form a curved flange by using a linear stretch die so the metal is only stretched in one direction. There is a pic of a linear stretch die I made for my planishing hammer in the Packard thread as well. You could make a similar hand held die by reshaping the tip of a dulled chisel. Adjusting the radius of the tip will make the tool more or less aggressive. A rounder tip will shape quicker but leave deeper tooling marks.
Another way is to make a Buck, spring the part around and use some heat and body hammer to work the wrinkles out. For sheet metal it goes pretty smoothly. Here is the Buck and part I made for a hidden flange on my wheel wells. The tube is 1/2" X 1" X .063.
More great info thanks! Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
Chasing or corking is the term you want research. Depending on the pattern you can use strips of steel, cut sheet metal in the shape you want, MDF and wood. These can be made into simple or elaborate shapes. 1st pic was made with an aluminum male and female die. 2nd pic wad a piece of round metal taped in position. Once shape is located tap with a rubber mallet and the shape is raised. Then chase the shape with a piece of hardwood or dulled chisel. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
That is really cool. I want to start messing with this asap. I have a dogleg between one of my rear doors and its neighboring wheel arch that is rotted. I've been thinking for a while about seeing how far the rot goes and replacing it but I have been hesitant. This all helps. For that job a shrinker/stretch my be helpful though. When you guys grind welds for body work, are you using an angle grinder? Didn't it take forever? I usually use a high speed wheel but it isnt pretty Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
IF ADMIN SEES THIS AND FEELS SO INCLINED, perhaps we should rename the thread "making body panels" as it has morphed into something broader/better than just floor board questions Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
I use a cut-off wheel with three discs stacked to knock down the top of the welds, the switch to a 3" 90* pnuematic grinder with a 36 grit disc. If it's an outer panel I'll finish off with 80 grit disc, then 60 grit on a DA sander to get it smooth.
Good controlled quality welds mean little build up. I generally just use my body files to knock them down. Way better control than using a grinder. The Wizzard
Hand stamping the beads is also an option if you are a glutton for punishment. Always start from the inside of the panel when forming a bead. You will almost always get some distortion of the panel when you want deep beads unless the bead goes all the way across the panel. Tons of pics in the link below. 1939 Mercury Build http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1939-Mercury-Build.981440/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great build Mike! Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
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