Every have a design you wanted to reproduce ? Well,through the mircle of modern science,now you can. Also works well for doing mirrored images,as in left and righthand of one design. Here is a pinstripe panel I jammed on with my friend Letterfly. For this demo,I want to reproduce my part of the design,which is in Fire Red.
Cut a piece bigger than your design. If your working on a truck door,some magnets will help. If your working on a Corvette,or Bricklin,get some tape.
Now we spread a small amount of Mineral Spirits across the area we want to copy. If you use water,the paper is more likely to shrink and wrinkle when it dries.
Now remove the pattern from the panel. Since the paper is only wet in the middle, it is still plenty strong and you don't have to worry about tearing.
Run the Pounce Wheel across the design,following as close as possible. This needs to be done on a soft surface,so the pounce wheel can perforate the pattern.
Then lightly run some course sandpaper across the BACK of the pattern to open up the holes. It will look like this when your done.
Lay the pattern on your new surface,align and position as necessary, and go over the pattern with a pounce bag.
[ QUOTE ] Run the Pounce Wheel across the design,following as close as possible. This needs to be done on a soft surface,so the pounce wheel can perforate the pattern. [/ QUOTE ] Great post Ian! It's funny but when you've been in the business for awhile,you forget that when you're trying to impart information to newcomers,you sometimes take for granted that they know about such things. I would only add this in regard to the surface where you do the pouncing:It should be a firm surface but capable allowing a part of the tines on the wheel to penetrate.I usually like to use a wooden surface such as an old piece of plywood.I've tried it on cardboard and the wheel penetrates too far and rips the design.I've used my drawing board(which is covered with galvanized metal so the Electro-Pounce will work)with a small wheel and it barely penetrates the paper.I've never heard of using a piece of sandpaper on the reverse side,but it sure makes sense.Thanks;I learned something today!
Great post Unk! [ QUOTE ] And your pattern is now nicely reproduced. All you have to do is paint it. [/ QUOTE ] Do you paint right over the powder marks or retrace them with a stabilo and wipe the powder off? Bill
Pounce patterns are great. Another thing to know- most sign shops with a vinyl plotter can also make pounce patterns. I use them all the time for lettering. This wall is over30' long and it only takes me about 5 hours per side. If you were hand lettering without a pounce pattern it would take many times that. Also, a sock can be used instead of a pounce pad to hold the charcoal.
Ian, If those are brush painted lines, couldnt you use the side of a Crayon to rub on the paper? That way you can get a "leaf impression" to follow instead of waiting for the paper to dry. When I do flames, I use the leaf impression method, works real good on hand painted pin stripes. Might save you a little time and mess. Just a thought-Tony