The AA bellhousing is the one I need to adapt a T5, correct? Thanks again just to make sure, is this one a A or AA? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...agename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=#ht_500wt_1215
That's an A, NOT an AA. The pedals are there. The T-5 kit uses the regular A bellhousing, or at least the T-5 behind my banger is behind an A bellhousing. If you're adapting your own trans, it's often easier to use an AA 'housing as they are 2" shorter. I've put a '66 Volvo trans on a banger behind an AA bellhousing.
Depends on which adapter you use. I think Artiki is right - most of the commercial ones use the A bellhousing to retain the pedals. I believe the Dwight Bond adapter will work on an AA bellhousing though - his later adapters had a threaded hole for a pedal rod/pivot.
New forums or social groups. I went to one of the new forums and saw quite a few familiar names. I tried to answer a question asked and couldn't get into the forum so I am giving up on them. Is the purpose to refine the area of discussion? Is there too much distraction from A B motors on this forum? I don't really have the time to surf and check more than one dedicated to hopping up the AB engine. I check this forum in the AM and usually once in the afternoon but I need to spend my time working on my projects. I picked up my 4 port head yesterday and also another B block and a BB crank for another Winfield flathead that was stored at Taylor's. Also yesterday I finished reaming the chamber on my Martini single shot which I am building to shoot out of my garage window at a target 70 yards away. So you see my leisure time is limited because of all these important projects. Also have to find time, now that the weather is warming up, to pull my Ford 805 tractor engine down for a rebuild. We did the 8N last year. Have to pull the skip loader off and all that other garbage. Quite a project as the pan is also the frame so you have to pull the front axle loose on one side to get it out of the way. All of this after I put the RPU back together so we can trailer it down to El Mirage and cruise the pits and shake up all those old guys. I have one of the first Winfield repops that Gene made and the Al seem very soft and the distributor keeps working loose or I should say the locking screw keeps pulling out. very thin in that area. But that is just another project!
I'm using a Dwight bond adapter with AA bellhousing hoping not to have to notch the center crossmember..It has threaded hole for pedals..It also is taped in the front to use a bolt on throw out bearing shaft..now all I need is cdo's adapter for the 4x4 T5..I've been wasiting for awhile..It will be worth it.
hey I have another question what is the shortest transmission with over drive I can adapt to the back of an A banger? I dont need provisions for petals so a AA bell housing is fine. I also dont need a reverse gear if it is possible to remove for space. just want it to be short and at minimum a 1:1 top gear but OD is preferred. Would like to stay shorter than a T5 but that may be my last choice unless there is a way to shorten one and remove the tail shaft. this trans will be used mounted directly to a solid mounted rear. so im open to any custom ideas.
The Jeep 4x4 T5 is probably the shortest. It has a stub where it bolts to the transfer case & would probabl work well for what you're trying to do. The ratios aren't great (it's got the 4.03 1st gear set), but can be swapped for any other NWC T5 gearset.
Here is the KJeep 4x4 T-5 that I am using in my RPU with the addapter I built for the closed driveline. I swaped out the Jeep gears and replaced 1-4th gears with a set from a S-10 2 wd trans to get a 3.76 first gear and closer ratios throughout. Works great. The Jeep trans is 10" shorter then the 2wd T-5.
I used the A bellhousing but now I wish I would have used the AA. I didn't need the pedal mounts and could have used a 2" shorter set up. I made an addapter plate to mount the trans to the bellhousing made from 1/2" steel plate. I am also running a hydraulic throwout bearing.
That is a nice setup what clutch setup and throw out bering and such you using? because im going to have to run a hydraulic setup
I'm using a lightened A flywheel modified to run a Ford tracktor preasure plate (same as V-8 flathead PP). The throwout bearing is a Howe Hydraulic addapted to use a stock Model A throwout bearing. http://www.howeracing.com/p-7753-improved-hydraulic-for-stock-clutches.aspx .
J Man there is a AA bellhousing listed on the Fordbarn. It was just listed today. Model A FORD Swap Site
Ok, I guess I am getting a little confused, What determines wether you need an A or AA bell housing? I would be using S10 T5s if that makes a difference. Sorry if this has been covered many times before.
Personal preference and the kit you use will determine what Bell housing to use. The both work. If you are putting it is a stock model A I would say that the AA bellhousing with the pedal adapters would be best. But it might be the most expensive. Here are pictures of a "AA" adapter set up with pedal mounts.
So it would make sense to have at least one of each around just incase. So whose kit do I use for each bell housing? Does it matter if I go the torque tube vs drive shaft route? What are the advantages of one bell housing vs the other, other than the pedals being located? Thanks again. The project I will be focusing on will be a T with the A motor and S10 T5 with a torque tube setup with a A rear (maybe '46)
Crazy,school me on that throwout set up. Is the pedal throw or distance the same with the Howe? I'm looking for a shorter throw as I have a problem with my left leg. I have a "Torqueflite' but really don't want to go that route. I have a S10, a 39 with open conversion, and a 38 Lincoln side shift. The 39 is a JoeMac built with what he called "Commercial" gears which are just pickup gears but 2 nd is a little lower. Would probably work well in a hill climb car starting in 2 nd.
The Volvo 5 speed is short and fits many things with ease. T-5 is far from bullet-proof If your really making HP and some torque you'll kill'em pretty easy. If you've built the car around the trans it's no fun finding that's the weak spot. Strongest trans I found was the Ford and Chevy T-O/D from pick-up trucks. Hell strong! Ratios suck but if you've power it's not bad.
Bluto, You make some valid points, but you don't need bullet proof for 99% of the banger applications. I'm running a T-5, as well as many people I know, and no problems that I have heard of. Some Bangers, V-8 Flatheads, and SBC. Sometimes you don't need bulletproof and the T-5 is stronger then most of us need. There was a plethora of T-5's made and in many cases you can interchange gear ratios to suit your needs. Flaternie has assembled a very impressive list of information that will lead anyone to the same conclusion. If you are running a high compression head and babbitt bearings a 5 speed has an advantage over a 4 speed. We all agree that lugging a Banger is murder on the lower end and with a 5 speed's closer ratios is helps keep you in favorable revs in today's traffic. But as I said above, it is all personal preferance. .
Craz------ I agree not many here need bullet proof. Problem with a T-5 is if someone buys a used one. You all need to look inside these T-5s many have been pre-worn by what ever it was in. These things don't like a driver that rests his hand on the gearshift all the time. Good idea with any trans is to strip it before use but in the T-5's case it is better than a 'Good Idea' T-O/D's like I used have a weak O/D gear. Tow a heavy trailer and the O/D burns up. Every trans has it's problems. But so far I find less trouble with the Volvo 5-speed than most. Best thing is I now have a guy with thick Clevite 77 thick material. He custom constucts new shells. With these bearings and a good oil pump I don't need any Babbit ever again! Now I can get a steel backed bearing..... yes too bullet-proof for most here but makes me a real 'happy camper' The 5-main has a shift in the main saddles so we may take it to the magic German welders. Like Kelly's in LA. These guy can weld your foot to the floor. So for now I'm going to use the 'B-Block' the HAL was on in the Miller. And will continue to develop the 5-main at it's own(slow) pace. So that's how it goes on the Eastern Front
Crazdaddyo, Did you keep the "A" bell when you swaped to the "B" motor? I would like to use what I have, an "A" bell with peddles and save a few bucks. I've a "B" motor in the works.
is the banger meet going to stay here on the main board ??????????? .. steve ya know tommorrow is april fools day , so i ask now !
Bill, Sorry I missed this post. The Hydraulic throwout bearing is much less effort to use then the stock set up. I am also told that the tractor preasure plate requires less effort too. The pedal trave seems shorter and with the right master cyl., and pedal ratio is is much better then the stock set up. I'm not sure how they would work on anything but the T-5 trans. as I don't know what the trans snout that the TO bearing rides on looks like. If you need more info or some help with this, let me know. Dan .
The advantage of the torque tube is that you don't have to modify the rear suspension like you do when you go to an open drive shaft. If you eliminate the torque tube you need something to tie the rear end under the car. Ladder bars, 4 link, something to take the torque of the rear end. Dwight Bond and Steve Serr both sell quality kits for the AA bellhousings. Here is Steve's set up: http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/transadapter.htm I don't know were to find the Dwight Bond Kit. The kit that I've seen for the A bellhousing that I have seen isn't worth mentioning. My Dad bought one for his '31 pick-up build and we ended up re-making everything and using only the clutch disk. .
The I.D. is 1.379. Here are some links to the instalation instructions for the Howe bearings: http://www.howeracing.com/Adobe/T-5Docs.pdf http://www.howeracing.com/Adobe/BearingDocs.pdf MASTER CYLINDER Stroke @ 3/4 7/8 1 Master TRAVEL@ CLUTCH 1/2" .21 .44 .57 1" .43 .58 .688* 1-3/8" .59 .688* .688* *Maximum stroke of unit.
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