I’ll tell you a recent story about STP, like 3 weeks ago recent. Kid knocked a hole in the cast aluminum oil pan of an OT German 4 cylinder. She was about 25 miles away. She had no oil when she checked it. I picked up a couple of 5 quart oil and drove the car home. About 1/2 way home I could here it rattling. Stopped and put the other 5 quarts in. Was rattling when I got home. Put a new pan on it and saw shavings in the bottom of the one I took off. After putting the pan on and filling it up, fired the car and ya, rattles. Went and got a quart of STP, poured it in and let the engine idle for about 1/2 hour, came back and sounded just fine/normal. Anyone want to buy a Jetta ?
And the Lucas additive is even better. But, I have used both. In our kart engines we changed the oil often. I would run a few ounces of STP and mostly Royal Purple race oil
Never tried Lucas before, will try it out on the next oil change, I figure a hundred miles around town should get the rest of the carnage into the filter. No, not cutting it open, I have one engine on the stand that needs to get done
For a 5 qt capacity I do 1 of Lucas and the rest a good quality oil. On my new brides OT VW I have been adding it since it has leaky valve seals and puffs a bit. Keeping it running good with minimal smoke and oil useage
Maybe, or maybe it's just normal blow by. No engine is perfectly sealed, some gas pressure will escape past the pistong rings into the crankcase. A pcv valve should be shut off at idle on most engines, because the vacuum is too high. Vapors formed in the crankcase have to go somewhere. Since the pcv valve is closed the pressure exits the breather. That's how "open" pcv systems were designed to operate. Eventually engineers fitted closed systems onto engines, so those vapors are drawn back into the carburetor when the engine is idling. There may be nothing wrong with your engine at all.
Pcv does not shut off at idle.https://dannysengineportal.com/posi... them from being expelled into the atmosphere.
Larry34 unless you have total seal or zero gap rings there will be blowby unless your rings are touching. If you have the smell and see the vapors I would add a PCV system or clean one if you have it. After 10,000 miles I added one and no more smell or vapors from my engine. Idling in the garage warm, my oil fill tube will hold paper which is an ez test. Good luck..
I can't read that graphic you posted, it's too small for my old eyes, but here's this graphic from the link you posted. It may not be "shut off", but it is at "minimum flow position". I referred to that as "shut off" because the draw is so low that the pressure inside the crankcase can easily exceed the flow capacity of the closed pcv valve, and that pressure will exit via the breather, which is how the system is designed to work.
You mentioned being embarr***ed by the blow by coming out of your breather at an idle. There is a trick you can do to eliminate that problem. The air is supposed to come in that breather , at speed, but does come out of the breather while sitting. Solution, plumb a hose from the breather tube to under your air cleaner. Then seal off or restrict the tube above that. The fumes will be burnt by your engine at idle and when going down the road air will be drawn in out of the air cleaner, which is probably cleaner that the air drawn through the breather. The down side of this is your air cleaner can get oily , if you have too much blow by. And at very high rpm and slow mph the road tube will work backwards, but the fumes will still be burnt. Chevrolet did something like this on some of their pick ups. Bones
I've used Mavel's for decades, and if your engine is a flat tappet I agree I'd go a little heavier weight oil with the one quart of MMO. But if the engine is a roller camshaft/lifters, I wouldn't. Roller engines don't like heavy oils, so diluting it is fine. I buy it by the gallon at Walmart, as it's much cheaper. Sometimes have to order and have them bring in the larger size. I toss a little into my gas tank on a fill up also. About 1/4 cup to a 16 gal. tank of gas. It's good for the carb, and valves.
>>>plumb a hose from the breather tube to under your air cleaner. Then seal off or restrict the tube above that. >>> Or use a xler-style hose-barb filler.breather cap. 8^) Jack E/NJ
This is the motor I am working with. Plumbing a hose as suggested by Jack E/NJ and Boneyard51 is out of the question guys, but I do thank you for the suggestion. I pulled up installing a PCV valve on YouTube and that is also out of the question. It was mentioned on UT that no crankcase ventilation does lead to excessive pressure and is hard on the main seals and others throughout the engine however. Having no vent tube, and no PCV system gives me some concern because of this. Would I be correct in thinking that the CC now is only venting past the rings and that needs attention to prevent problems? BTW, what little smoke there is, comes mostly from the vent seen here on valve cover of the p***enger side. Also BTW that is the coil position that I eliminated (due to heat) and moved to the fire wall with a new MSD coil and dizzy and wires, which I believe eliminated the higher RPM miss I chased all last summer before the ****** disaster.
May or may not help.......a good thread from Jeff Norwell on installing a PCV on his mill. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/pcv-breather-and-oil-fill-tech.1199568/
One word comes to mind with MMO, Seafoam, thickening agents like STP, Lucas. That word is SNAKE OIL....LOL I've used em all, with various conclusions. If the product makes you feel better, and/or it works to some degree its all good. Modern oils are light years ahead of the engine oils were when a lot of these products came on the market. I still at times use a little MMO or seafoam in the gas tank.....
So Joe B. thanks so much for the link to Jeff Nowell's ingenious solution for getting a PCV valve on my HEMI. Seriously going to get in to doing that. The next question that follows is the PCV valve and what is the best quality one out there. I see one that is a dual flow adjustable valve by M/E Wagner. Wondering if any of the guys here have used one, and if being adjustable buys you any thing? Next is to get the water fill Jeff speaks to, I see "Hot Heads" has them. So much thanks again Joe.
You can buy 90 degree PCV valves, which could be installed on the rear of the valve cover opposite of the way the breathers are on the front. You'd need to internally block off the breather on the same side so it wont keep the PCV valve from working. I did this on a BBC in my g***er that had the same breathers, and I wanted to keep the look of the engine. Worked great, and nobody noticed the hose sneaking up behind the valve cover and into the rear carb base.
So I got out to the shop this afternoon after going for our 2nd Covid shot. After sitting all winter the 34 had developed a gas and water leak and I wanted to get after them and of course ***ess doing Jeff's methodhttps://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/pcv-breather-and-oil-fill-tech.1199568/ on my car. ( Well while it is a tremendous way, but I wouldn't care for the CVS valve sticking out so predominantly from the water fill. I recall the factory installations from the past with the CVS just installed with a grommet somewhere in the valve cover with the crankcase g***es just vented /piped into the intake or the back of the carb. The only reason I can think of for going with the water fill and then the CVS installed in water fill was so you didn't have to put a hole in those oh so precious HEMI valve covers for the valve. But then Jeff's was a blown motor and perhaps that makes a difference. Mine is not, and if I'm right with ny thinking I could do as the factory's of the past, I'd put a hole in the VC and install the tight fitting grommet and CVS in the VC, run the crank case g***es through a hose to the vacuum port in the bottom of the front carb just like the factory's did back when. Am I barking up the wrong tree or am I okay with what I'm contemplating doing.??????????
>>>qt. MMO. Ran it for up to 20/30 minutes in the shop. Might be my imagination but it seems a little quieter on the lifter end of things, the small amount of smoke I think/thought might be blow by didn't show up either.>>> >>>Am I barking up the wrong tree or am I okay with what I'm contemplating doing.??????????>>> If it was mine, I'd prolly contemplate on doing nothing. 8^) Jack E/NJ
Good ****. OK, Two words. So is "snake oil". If we were talking about engine oil, you might have a point. Where MMO shines is with neglected older or original carbureted engines with typical gum or varnish & carbon. Sticky lifters and carboned up valves. Old stale, varnished gasoline residues. Also piston rings - ever tore down an engine and seen the rings basically glued in place? It absolutely dissolves excessive carbon and varnish where it can cause major problems, that's what it was designed to do.
Agreed a good cleaner, with a high concentration of Stoddard solvents she would be. If it works for a specific problem great, but as you would most likely agree its not a cure all. I like to add some into the gas in my small engine equipment.
Good review of Marvel Mystery Oil by Project Farm. I've picked up a few bottles, will be adding some on the next oil change. Also seen people use this as a engine flush
OK, thanks. I hate watching that stuff. Techron is for cleaning injectors isn't it?? What I mean is, people comparing stuff in uses they weren't even intended for.
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