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Technical Master cylinder/brake/clutch question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by justabeater37, Jun 1, 2016.

  1. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,837

    justabeater37
    Member

    I am working on a 27 T roadster pick up. I am trying to fit 10 pounds of function in a 5 pound can and still get my 6'. 195# frame to sit inside of it. Space is of a premium. I was thinking of using a firewall mounted master cylinder and either a hydraulic throw out bearing, pull type slave with a Vega bellhousing, or a cable clutch.
    That said, I am running a T50 Vega/Monza transmission, 39-41 Ford brakes. I am looking at the 60-62 Chevy or the International master that is similar. First, does anyone know if a hydraulic throwout bearing will even work with a T50, second, Would the 1" bore of the International master be adequate for the 39-41 brakes, third, what would be the drawbacks to the 1" master on a bearing that calls for a 7/8 master?
    I have read on here about resleeving the Chevy master to the proper bores, but that adds cost and I am trying to keep this low budget.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    7/8" bore master cylinder moves 3/4 as much fluid as a 1" bore, for the same pedal travel. So the leverage will be wrong. you might be able to make up for that in the pedal, by having the rod closer to the pivot.
     
  3. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,837

    justabeater37
    Member

    I was thinking of a pedal stop to limit travel. The more I think about it, the easiest way is just get the Chevy master sleeved down. Then I would be closer to right on the brake master size as well.
     
  4. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,420

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    60 thru 62 Chevy Truck master/clutch cylinder and slave cylinder is an option. There's lot's of threads to read about this here on the HAMB.[​IMG]
     
    Morrisman likes this.
  5. Trucker Jim
    Joined: Mar 28, 2016
    Posts: 67

    Trucker Jim

    Good question I am planning the same set up but haven't thought that far ahead yet.

    Jim
     
  6. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,012

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Simplest way would be to use the Chev truck push slave cylinder. Easy to fab a mount and that way you have off the shelf parts that are made to work together. We have mounted these on all sorts of stuff with good results.

    The brake side has worked good for us with early Ford Lockheed brakes.

    There are also Ford and IHC slaves that have a similar bore size and will give you other mounting options.
     
  7. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,837

    justabeater37
    Member

    image.jpeg If I use a push type slave as opposed to the hydraulic throw out bearing, it takes up space I don't really have. I have very limited space and I am trying to keep everything tucked up as tight as possible to limit things like exhaust hanging below the frame. I could build a belly pan, but I don't know how that would look on this truck.
     
  8. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,837

    justabeater37
    Member

    I have read the threads I could find on using these masters. I couldn't find any feedback on whether the 1" bore international master was adequate to run the early Ford brakes. I figured the 1" master would cause an over travel of the throw out bearing meant for a smaller bore but was looking for more feedback on the brakes b
     
  9. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,012

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We have used 1" bore Mustang type dual masters with Lockheed brakes; works but the pedal is lower than normal; results would probably be the about the same with the 1" bore IHC.

    You mentioned "over travel" of the clutch actuator; but I would be more concerned with the increased pedal effort caused by a miss-matched system.
     
  10. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,420

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    As Squirrel mentioned above. Alter your pivot point. Another option would be an adjustable clutch pedal stop. Your just going to have to expirament and see what happens and adjust accordingly.
     

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